B00STDZ

The original stock position of z32 calipers are 9-10 oclock. Stock s30 calipers are in the 2-3oclock position. This is if you are staring at the DRIVER side LHD of the car directly. Look at a picture of a stock 300zx z32 and look at the caliper placement on the front wheels. Then look at the caliper placement on an s30. If you want to use the calipers on a z32 it would seem that it would be ideal to keep the stock position that they come on a 300zx, when you install them on a s30.

He f'ed up the windshield bad... If the windshield was custom/not sunk in and had rake added it wouldnt look to bad. Whoever buys that though is buying a headache. Wouldnt touch that sht with a ten foot pole....

Is it possible to switch the assemblys though? Just out of curiousity... And why I would be interested in mounting infront of the hub center line is because I was wanting to switch out to z32 front brakes. I have recently aquired a low miles set for free. stock z32/240sx late model/nissan skyline gtr brakes carry the same bolt pattern and mount infront of the hub center line. The skyline GTR front brakes being the most expensive/desirable.

I have noticed that the calipers on a stock s30 in the front are mounted on the 2-3 oclock position on the rotor if looking at the rotor from the outside of the car. Can you switch the suspension assembly to reverse the caliper mounting to ensure proper bleeding on using other brake calipers? Like take the right lower assembly and install on the left side(mounts that connect to strut tube). And take the left lower assembly and install on the right side? I notice some use a bracket but this seems to not be a very solid mount for the caliper unless it is welded to the acual assembly.

Dropping VVT drops the 300zx by 20 horsepower... Maybe you can design and develope an obd2 chip to sell to all of the 1996 owners? But seriously... Look into NA's. Your not interested in performance and some in very good shape are going for decently cheap. Heres my source so you know im not blowing smoke.. http://www.premierz.com/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-300zx/ 1996 300zx Na sounds like a perfect car for you.

OBD 2 is only on the shitty 1996 model. 1995 had a chipable 16 bit ecu. 1990-1994 had a chipable 8 bit ecu.

Alright I have figured out the rear disk adapter MM sells will work with a rear z32 caliper. Now I need a front caliper adapter. Any info is appreciated!

If ANYONE can even let me know EXACTLY where to buy a set and how to go about doing it I would appreciate that also...

Maybe you do perfer the obd 2 but realize that 1. Untuneable and 2. Variable Valve timing is dropped on the 96 models decreasing horsepower. But if you are unconcerned about performance and want to keep the planet green, then a 96 would seem a logical choice. I would also just go ahead and look for an NA too. They are much cheaper. My brother got a 1996 300zx NA for $5k with only 70k miles on it in near perfect condition...

Btw wanted to clarify... 94 and up DID NOT have a door mounted seatbelt! The 90-94 models did. 94 and up had the seatbelt mounted like a normal car, not on the door. 90's are going to be the cheapest because they are the most problem prone. 1995 twin turbos are the most desirable because they have the 16 bit ecu AND still retain the variable valve timing. 1996 models DROPPED the variable valve timing due to emissions standards! Also they have the "****" ecu no one likes that is OBD2. Have to go completely stand alone to tune. The pre obd2 ecu's off the 90-95 can be chipped. Which is ALOT cheaper and easier. (z1 sells perfermance chip for $100) Conclusion: The best z32 is a 1995 twin turbo. The rarest z32 is a 1990 Nissan 300zx twin turbo convertible. Only 44 made. Also is the most desirable. Most have production numbers in 1989, but sold as 1990.

Which saturn looks like a z31?

Well if someone could do the footwork on getting them to the US, Ill defenatly buy them.

Hopeful bump...

Nobody likes wiring... Sorry about your luck...

Picture looks photoshopped...

Member http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/2679-2eightz4me/ 2eightz4me has information on them and a set. Here is a picture he sent to me awhile back.

Hello, I have recently aquired a set of front and rear z32 calipers and was wondering if anyone has the adapter bracket that would allow these calipers to work on an s30 and wants to sell. I know there are a few sets floating around... if anyone wants to sell one let me know! -Nick

What bothers me the most is when the forum software resizes, and when you click on the photo to make it larger it goes into "its own little scroll window." This is annoying. I feel like if you click on a picture to make larger you should be able to scroll to the left and right and up and down on the main window and not have a duplicate small window appear.

See the way I see it if the turbo spools at 5000 rpms. higher ratio/lower numbers would be better because say your redline at 6000 Alright your in 1st gear. high ratio rear end. say at 5000 when the turbo spools you hit... 20 mph... and by 6000 your at 35 mph... Same turbos/tranny/setup Low ratio rear end. say at 5000 when the turbo spools you hit... 15 mph... and by 6000 your at 20mph because the engine winds too fast not allowing it to build full boost. So the bigger the turbo the more essential it would be TO have a high ratio! You want to MAXIMIZE your time in boost. say with a 3.36 between 5000-6000 you spend 1.2 seconds in boost building up more speed. with a 4.11 between 5000-6000 you spend probable only .5 seconds in boost, not building boost completely, and not aquiring as much speed. This is just gearing. If you have a 4.11 and you have that big of a turbo pushing that much power. Not only will you spend LESS time in boost, NOT build full boost, and NOT aquire as much speed, But traction, If boost hits like a hammer and is a quick spirt most likely youll be spending more time sliding around than going forward. With a NATURALLY ASPIRATED car that seems sluggish with TALL drag slicks, you should probably run a lower ratio/higher numbers in your differential to push the traction threshold to aquire the best time possible.

I thought about replying to this thread but it feels too political. Although I will say I disagree with this big brother movement of your life being monitered every second to make sure you dont do something "stupid".

Alot of mis information going around in this thread! Higher ratio(lower numbers) is better for the l28et. Switching to this lengthens the time between gears, allows you to reach a higher top speed, and allows you to stay in boost longer/ also allows you to build full boost in 1st gear. Lower ratio(Higher numbers) such as the 4.11 ARE NOT ideal for an L28et!! Using a 4.11 gear ratio SHORTENS the time between gears, redlines TOO FAST, the l28et DOES NOT spool full boost in 1st gear with this differential! and allows for LESS top end and poor gas mileage. Lower ratio/higher number diff ratios are ideal for Naturally Aspirated motors, NOT turbo motors of any kind! Even my z32 has a 4.11 and i hate it because when i mash the gas pedal to the floor on take off the max boost it can spool in 1st gear is 7 PSI!!! only 7 when the boost controller is set at 15 and the car is able to hit 15 in all of the other gears. Also lower ratio diffs spin the driveshaft FASTER. Is this good? If you can keep the power on the pavement! If your breaking traction in boost and you have a really wide good set of tires your diff gear is way too tall. Do you want to go fast or slide around the road? I have always viewed Lower ratio/higher number differential gear ratios as a way to make a LOW HORSEPOWER car SEEM fast. Which it does wake up a low horsepower car, but if your planning on putting some power down 300+whp, go with a taller gear unless you plan on buying really tall wide drag slicks to run on it. Basically higher ratio/lower numbers is better in a sense, if the car seems sluggish with the diff gear most likely the gear is too tall. But too be honest this isnt very common. The most desired ratio for a l28et is the infamous 3.36 r200. 3.54 will suffice. 3.7 lsd if you are on a budget and dont want to mess with the ratios and have an lsd. I have a 300zx z31 3.7 ratio r200 lsd that has been converted to a 3.36 LSD in my orange car.

Why would you buy that hunk of ****! Or even try to sell something like that... Scrap it, throw in the towel, theres more out there, z31's arent that desirable...

Well Im wanting wet traction on a safe level not so much for performance. And im wanting dry traction like sticky glue. The r888's unfortunately do not have 275/45/16...

Also basically what I've summed up is that Light Load tires have a softer sidewall than normal tires. This is not technically a bad thing. For autocrossing it isnt desirable, for drag racing it is. You can still take corners fast, just have to watch to not get "carried away". Also I have read people typically get 11,000 miles out of the toyo proxes tq with daily driving. These toyo tires also I have read get the best wet traction out of all the street drag radials on the market(mickey thompson, nitto, BFG).

Do you think these would be a sutable daily driver tire? In mostly dry conditions but the occasional wet condition(and in wet conditions I do not plan on pushing the cars performance).