B00STDZ

Mirrors are Motorsport auto flush mounts.. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/FMM No downside to sealing headlight bucket seams really unless you get in a wreck, but why plan for that? Headlight access is available through the wheel well. The turn signal lenses on the taillight's are Klearz lenses. http://www.klearz.com/products2.html#280z scroll midway down on this page. Accually one thing I did with these lenses that nobody has done is i took the little lens reflectors off of the inside of the stock lense(that are clear) and epoxyed it on these clear lenses so the light is refracted the exact same way as stock. Use goof off to get the little reflector off and use clear epoxy to put it on(dry time doesnt matter) On the front of the car the turn signal is inside the headlight and has a clear lens but flashes yellow to match the clear lens on the rear. http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=headlights They are the modern styled "snake eye with clear turn signal". You will have to email them if you are interested in buying them as they are not listed on the website. Electric hatch pop was sourced from autoloc. Instructions on how to install it was sourced on hybridz.(although i still have yet to install it haha) http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/configure.lasso?prodinc=powertrunks You have to buy either the PT1000 or the PT1500 as those are the only ones that will fit INSIDE the hatch lid where it has to be mounted. It is a very tight fit but it does fit. I forgot which one I ordered.

My car has- shaved drip rails and all emblems/ chrome trim painted black/ windshield chrome trim removed/ rear glass chrome trim removed/ chrome door handles painted black/ headlight bucket seam sealed allowing it to sit flush with the fender/ All side markers shaved/ Door mirrors relocated to flush mount/ Rear bumper shaved/ front bumper replaced w/ airdam/ rear panel smoothed/ airdam grafted into wider fiberglass subtle z fenders/ rear turn signals clear/ Hatch lock shaved switching to power trunk pop/ Pretty much alot of ****. I have detailed pictures in my cardomain. www.cardomain.com/ride/3218401

Hello, I was looking for tires for the 300zxtt and I noticed sometimes the tires load ratings are light load. What is the difference between light load and a regular load rating on a tire? Is this unsafe for street use? EDIT* By the way these are the tires I am looking at getting. http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/proxes-tq-drag-radials I want to keep stock twin turbo z32 rims for a sleeper look. They are 16x8.5". The tire I want to run is 275/45R16. Minimum rim width is 8.5" per the toyo website so it should fit on the rim fine. And there is alot of clearance inside the wheelwell/suspension/fender so I should be good there. The only thing that has me stumpted is the Light Load rating on this tire. Does that mean the sidewalls are weak and not safe? I plan on using this as a street/daily driven tire. Appears to have extreme dry traction w/ moderate wet traction.

New trailer if people havent seen! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3haFs9GIcM

Yup early model probably if it has 240z bumpers. Also another good set off is turn signal location on the front of the car. Early 260z's had 240z bumpers with the turn signals right below the headlights(like a 240z). Late 260z's had 280z bumpers with turn signals between the headlights(like a 280z).

Since when is a 260z undesirable?! In stock form as far as the engine goes they are kind of a step child. But as far as chassis goes... The one with the least rust should win! My project car is a 260z and love it! Early 260z's are like 240z's... later 260z's are like 280z's. It was a year of transition for s30's. A transition from the 240z to the 280z. The only difference between an early 260z and a 240z is the tail lights as far as chassis and look goes.

Why would you want to do that? If you want a single turbo setup I would get a VG30DETT and make a single turbo exhaust manifold and convert to single...

Kind of vague and changes opinion throughout. Started out 70-76 interchange then went to 74-76 interchange. And acually it would seem the 77-78 doors have the best design but are not swappable on an early body.

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The ecu may not be the problem? Bad plugs? Dirty connections?

Alright. The main priority is getting a replacement door that I dont have to **** with. Smoothly operating window and rust free. Price, pics and paypal through pm when you find one... -Nick

No i said I would pay and then you said you didnt have one fully assembled/functional window and rust free.

Well. You find alot of z parts. You think you could find me a door?

Damn. Well I guess I still need a door then.

Hello I am curious as to what other years of doors have the same latch mechinism and shape as the early 1974 260z doors. Is the 73 240z door the same? Or does the 260z door take the style more of the 75 280z? Or is it totally unique in latch and shape?

It looks in really good shape? But im not sure if the 240z doors will fit a 260z. Also i take it your located in san diego, CA? Shipping would be best through greyhound. All you would have to do is just maybe throw some plastic rap over the top of it and give it to them. Can anyone tell me if the 73 240z door is the same as the early 74 260z door?

Lol Fast and furious quotes thrown in there.

BUMP... still looking

accually on the door three spaced out holes? visible from a few feet away from the car? They probably use to hold chrome trim.

Haha im still curious of the piston size? I have a feeling its about 89mm with a stock stroke making it say 3.0L displacement...

Trust me, your not missing ANYTHING. This **** sucks. Excuse my french...

Sounded like a gun went off!

Remember you must replace the stock s30 z gas tank with a fuel cell to run dual exhaust as there is no room with the stock tank in place...

Na, pharaoh knows not the truth... I have 280z stub axles/half shafts in my z31 r200. fits perfect. cheaper too...