Pathogen

Its already Sold.

Email me the pics and I will post them.

MSA sells Aluminum driveshafts (though they are very expensive) http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PRC02F

Somehow this post slipped by me. Anways I have it stripped of interior and I am currently working on wiring and a port/polish on the fuel injection intake I bought a few weeks ago. Trying to go through the harness and get all wired up. I recently got a friend of mine to start making the subframe connectors and my uncle is going to come up and weld them in and help me with some misc body work. Still gotta fix the brakes and if money allows I will be doing a CV conversion with Ross C's adapters. Then it will be off to paint jail.

Basically some guy was hotlinking someone else's pics of a Round headlight conversion kit for Camaro's I just dug through my internet cache to find where the pic was. I guess the ebay scammer noticed it and ended the auction. hmmm wonder why? Picture guy was hotlinking

"which was advertise for sale on net" You never know, could be that he doesnt speak english very well or doesnt have much experience on "the net." Either way people need to proofread their email's, I dont think any email program with a spell checker would let that one go through.

I called to inquire about insurance rates for my 1971 240Z about 6 monthes ago and for a male driver with no insurance discounts and a $300 deductable for collision/comprehensive it was $165 a month (CDN) which is about $125 USD. I believe this was for the car's use to be to/from work or school in excess of 15km's with no limit on mileage. Unless you get classic car insurance I wouldnt think you have a limit on mileage but it could be different in the states.

My friends ranger was idling ok but his volt meter went up when you gave it some gas, as well as the lights became brighter. We hooked up a tester and noticed low voltage on his battery and then noticed all problems went away once engine was at about 1500rpm and alternator was doing the work. May want to take your battery into a local store and get it tested. In canada we have canadian tire and they will test it for free, I dont know what you have down in texas for anything that way, but I would phone around and see.

The heads are the major restriction in the 5.0's. I believe it was carcraft (could be some other mag) that only changed the heads and headers and got over 400HP with stock everything else. I would look for a 87-92 engine with the stock forged pistons. The 94/95 intake is about 1.5inch's lower so they have more hood clearance. The hypereutectic pistons dont do nearly as well under boost or no2 so if those are in your plans I would avoid those blocks. I believe the 87/88 were the most powerful of all the 5.0's. Keep us updated on the swap, as I am interested in seeing what you are going to use for drivers side header.

Shaun, it was nice meeting you. Here are those photo's I took which show the damage to the front better then that other photo. The images are quite large so those on dialup may have to wait a while.

That sucks. I will keep a eye out for it as I always notice any Z/ZX's around. At least they cant steal mine off jackstands! Hopefully ICBC will be nice and not try to screw you over because your car is 20+ years old.

If your willing to spend the bucks then you can get a laptop to a very close level of desktop gaming machine, but why not spend 1/2 the money and get something better? bastaad: One of the reasons why a laptop will never perform the same is Laptops have much stricter standards for physical size, heat and power consumption. With a Desktop PC you have almost none of those issues to deal with. Also Desktop PC's are not limited to sizes of fans, so usually several larger fans at a lower rpm are put in rather then the smaller fans they cram into laptops. Also HD rpm in a desktop system is higher so all specs the same the desktop will still perform better. Quite often they scale the CPU mhz back to make the system run cooler, quiter and consume less power, as applications need more power the cpu speed increases, not a big deal if your plugged into a wall socket because this 'feature' isnt usually on when your charging the battery, but i dont like my gaming performance effected because of low battery.

Laptop's do have their advantages, but if you wanna play some serious games you need a desktop. Also I work in the industry and let me warn you - make sure your wireless setup is using encryption, because with security problems of XP and wireless your neighbor could be browsing your computer. I have seen several people not enable WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) because thats the default on most wireless setups and have lots of problems with people trying to hack into their computers and mess around with stuff. Also you dont want your neighbor using your internet! Sounds like a decent setup, Dell's arent bad systems, but I have seen a few that if you apply any pressure on the LCD screen when its closed it can come in contact with the keyboard and ruin the screen so be very careful about that. It happens because you put a laptop in its case and then put something on top of the case and it apply's the pressure. The ones that I have seen like that were not convered under warranty - so a word of caution. Anyways enjoy the new machine.

I say go ahead and swap EFI. I recently purchased and 1987 Speed density system for my 5.0. I Got upper/lower intake, computer, harness, fuel rail, injectors, most sensors and distributor for about $120 USD. I've been reading through all these links about it and so far is seems as though its a fairly simple conversion. I wish the search was working because I know there is some good info in the archives. Ihttp://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/efi/ http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/5liter.php http://www.acc-electronics.com/cloud/tc_auto.html http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp http://users.ev1.net/~gbuzek/index.htm http://www.geocities.com/mstngmtt/Mustang/mustang.htm http://www.painlessperformance.com/manuals/90518m/90518mhome.htm#startmanual http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/06tech/index.html http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/ems.htm http://www.acc-electronics.com/cloud/tc_eec.htm http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/massair.html

I got them saved on my computer, I think they are to big to email but if someone has any space to host them I will upload them.

Xerox Film Remover works great but is expensive. Goof-offworks as well but I have used both and I think the Xerox stuff was better.

It is possible that it is USB 2.0, but I highly doubt it. That camera has connectors for Firewire (IEEE 1394) and USB, and S-Video. Here is what I found with a quick google search, might help you if your a Mac guy. NOTE for Macintosh Users: Cannot interface via USB. But no worries, a FireWire cable makes the camcorder totally compatible with Macintosh. Must get a "4-to-6-pin Thin FireWire cable" and use the iLink DV interface on the camcorder. If your running Windows you may want to check to make sure your USB is working because as soon as you plug in a USB device is should try to auto detect it regardless of if your running Win98/Me or XP. Try it with a mouse or keyboard or any other USB device. Also if your trying to connect to the front USB on a computer try the ports on the motherboard (panel where your Mouse/Keyboard and serial connections are), as sometimes the front USB ports quit working or they are wired wrong. The camera should come with any software needed (although not always the best software) to get it working so if you dropped in the CD and followed the auto run setup you should be on your way. Note: Also if it is a USB 1.1 camera you may want to get rid of the USB connection and go to firewire because USB 1.1 is 12mbit or even slower if its USB 1.0, USB 2.0 is 480mbit and Firewire is also 480mbit. So transfering those videos will be alot quicker with firewire or USB 2.0.

Im 18, what does that do to the average?

The shop is correct, I work in the retail computer store and we have the same deal that we have to pay 2% of total price to Credit Card company and 3% if its American Expresss. Also unless you can prove you physically had the card in hand then you can put a stop payment on the payment to them and claim you never purchased that and never recieved it. Either way the shop should incorporate that into their price.

Shouldn't this be in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum?

The search will get you started. Nobody makes a conversion kit for the SBF. Hybridz member 'alsil' makes the crossmember that you can use with first gen mustang motor mounts and you then you still need to deal with all the rest of problems.

Depends on the mods and your insurance company etc... Certain mods are covered. When I looked into insurance about a week aog I was told that everything I do is covered if I have receipts or pictures and a appraisal always helps. Certain things have limits though like they will only cover $1000 for stereo equipment. As for the street racing, people who street race especially at those speeds are asking for something. Somewhat related to topic. Yesterday a car pulled into my drive way and passanger got out to look at our house address (cant see from the street) found it was wrong house (as I was looking wondering who these people are) got back into their car and backed out of the drive way. About a second later a local idiot (went to school with the guy) in his supercharged etc... stang and a truck came racing around the blind corner down the street and the stang had to screech to a stop to not rear end the guy. The Truck swirved over the double solid line and around the stang and other car. All this is a residential zone AND I have a 'warning school zone' sign outside my house since school zone is about 100 ft away. People like have more balls then brains.

You live in california and your car is still smog tested so how you pass is up to you, but here is a pretty decent page comparing different year engines. http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/specifications/specs1.htm Make sure you document your swap as I am sure some ZX'ers will be interested in the info. ZX's are already fuel injected so why go carb?

I saw the sig on corral a while ago and thought it was good. I work about a 10 minute walk from home so I am spending the savings of not having a DD on the Z. When I need a car to use though I have to use a honduh civic and being in it reminds me of why I dont like them. The only positives are they are great on gas (got 750km's out of a tank of gas). There is some funny things to being a young driver and driving a civic - the other night I had some red civic with a fart can rev on me and then attempt to burn out wanting to race me. LOL.

Where are all these people from BC coming from... Im part of the local vancouverstangers club and I took a look at SFICC, but like so many other forums they seem to have some ricers and so many people voicing opinions with little tech knowledge. I dont post too much on hybrid because I use the search and posts since last the most. Why so many 0 post users. Purhaps people sign up with a invalid email and never activate their account? Or maybe like others said. It really doesnt matter if they dont post though unless its wasting too much space on the server. 74.5 347Z: Wow that Z is amazing.