kamikaZeS30

PhaTTy, do you plan to drive this car mostly on the street or on the drag-strip? Grumpy knows his GM, I read a ton of his posts before settling on my 383 swap. I'm not experienced with the GM v8s (well, not as experienced as some on this board), but the 383 from what I understand is good for building a low-to-midrange torque monster, if you want the high-strung performance motor I'd look at staying with the 350 or look at a 327 (bjhines has built a really sweet 327 track Z). I'm still not done with it to the point where it is driveable, but I tried to stay somewhat conservative on my build, because it will be my regular street car. I, personally, would not want solid roller lifters with a ridiculous cam and huge lift, unless you want to keep your foot on the gas at stop-lights and choke-out/piss-off the people behind you, not to mention attract the attention of the local constabulary. If it's your track car, then go balls to the wall. As far as chassis reinforcements, look at posts by johnc in the brakes/suspension/chassis/wheels subforum. He has a 13-point checklist for stiffening a street/track Z, and there are a ton of pictures in that forum regarding the processes involved in each of those points. You're kind of starting out with a handicap, because you have no roof, but a crafty mind I'm sure could overcome that. My first instinct, as grumpy and rsicard have already stated, would be to start seam welding and look at fabbing a better cage. Hell, I would build it into/through the doors, weld the doors to the body (since it's a chop top) then continue that bracing through the firewall and to the front frame rails, and tie the back of it into the tops of the shock towers and the rear-subframe-- pair that with some bad dog frame rails and you'll be off to a really good start.

Yeah, grounding wasn't great from the factory to begin with, then when the wires are 30+ years old and resistance becomes a factor, it becomes piss-poor. I'm doing a star-ground (in the near future) for mine, but really a good braided copper strap (like something you'd find in an old GM or Chrysler) running between battery negative, the body and the engine block is enough to get the headlights working properly and start the car on the regular.

Yes, I know WHAT torque, weight-transfer and inertia are. But, I'd like to see someone drag-launch a car without a power-train. But, torque works against inertia during acceleration, or am I wrong? I.e. the reason the car moves (accelerates) is due to the rotation of its drive-train: crankshaft, flywheel, transmission, drive-shaft, differential, half-shafts, stub axles, hub, and finally, the wheels and tires. It also seems that a car, regardless of rear-suspension geometry, will react to (in varying degrees) application of work (in this case torque). In simple terms what I am saying is that torque when it becomes acceleration (forward moment) causes the weight-transfer. I guess I don't understand why there is the prevailing sentiment that these are all isolated occurrences?

It has no gauges in it at all? If the information I have read in other subforums here on HybridZ is correct, the Ammeter is kind of a central power distribution point in the harness. It is also kind of illustrated that way in the FSM, they call them "leads" but if you look at what goes from the voltage regulator to the dash harness, it looks more like a primary source than a lead. The White/Red wires are your positive power leads and the all White wires are your negative leads, they should be larger than the other wires (they're like 10 or 8 gauge I believe).

That is a really nice color. Very classy. If you don't mind my asking, how much did you score the F-body for? I have been thinking that once my 383 Z is on the road again, the only real modifications I will be looking for down the road is an LT1 T56 trans, LSD for the R200 and some bigger rubber.

Isn't the weight transfer a result of torque, in a sense, though? Inertia.

With the V8 swapped cars (all one of them that I've driven), the steering seems lighter, probably because you no longer have like 12 inches of cast-iron block, alternator, etc. hanging out in front of the cross-member. I can't speak from experience with caster/camber, though. I agree that the LSx is a good swap for reliable 400hp, you can almost get that from a stock engine with all of the smog equipment removed and little bit freer aspiration/exhaust. An earlier GM small-block will get you that easily (heads/valves, cam, intake, carb), and maybe for less cash. There are lots of A/C and heating options, from sticking with the factory system (or at least, reusing the evaporator unit) or something like Vintage Air. I would like a Vintage Air for my car, someday, but I think it's out of the budget, for now.

As much or more so than the ECU, think about the wire harness: you're going to want the factory engine harness, too. And, it helps to have it in working condition, so that you can simply modify it to fit your swap, much better than having to make one from scratch. That could be toast due to water intrusion. In any case, if you've got the money to do something unique like this it would be amazing. Like I said before, I think the newer BMW engines would be a fun swap, too.

This sounds like a really interesting swap. I am becoming a bigger fan of German motors (still not a huge fan of the cars themselves) the more I learn about them. The timing chain/assembly in that picture is scaring me, though. I was actually thinking about buying the N52B30 from a wrecked 330i to see if I could shoe-horn it into my Miata, I know a RB25 and a 2JZ will fit. Yes, I own a 240Z and I own a Miata. No, I'm not *** or a communist.

I would think that 255s would be the widest tire that you could really make use of in a Z. Ultimately, I think you gain more by using a lighter, "grippier" tread pattern and compound on a narrower width tire than you would from using something like a Porsche or Corvette fitment tire. The early S30s were pretty light, so saving unsprung weight would be important and because the car is lighter overall its inertial properties (during cornering) wouldn't necessitate as much lateral resistance as a heavier car like the Corvette. I have 225s on all fours, now, and that seems to be a good width, just from personal experiences. I had problems with traction in some situations with the 195s it used to have, both lateral grip and acceleration. Haven't experienced any of that with the 225s. That may change once I complete the V8 swap. The only problem I have with my current tires is weight, they're a 50 profile 16" so I might be better off trying to find a 17" in the same width and running a lower profile tire. I think having fat-ass tires on a Z looks wicked, though. Or even maybe using wheels with odd-ball measurements (i.e. 15x8 -45 or something) to widen the car's track, but you start putting a lot of stress on the bearings when you do that (I think the general idea is to keep the center-line of the wheel in the same position relative to the hub). I'm not a track veteran or a professional, though. These are just my opinions based on a general understanding.

I went through an exchange program to Japan, that was while I was at community college. It was costly, though. It ended up costing as much as it would've been to go to a private school here in California. I also joined the Navy shortly thereafter. Being an exchange student is fun, but expensive, sometimes prohibitively so. I know that you can use FAFSA and other financial aid programs to help cover the costs. Joining the Navy is free, in fact, they pay you. And, when you're done, school is basically paid for and it'll give you focus and drive in your studies. If you WANT to travel, the Navy is the best branch for that. AF depending on your specialty you might end up getting stuck on one base for your entire career, marines go where there is gunfire so Afghanistan, and army is the same thing. I might actually be going on exchange again at the end of my Junior year.

Edit: Nevermind, got my answer.

I would just buy the Z and keep the Mustang. Because the Z has not attained (and, sadly, it probably never will) the "classic/muscle/hot-rod" status that cars like the Corvette, Mustang, Camaro, 442, Thunderbird, etc. have it won't sell for nearly what you'd expect. I've invested probably like $20K in mine, but I know I'd never get that out of its sale. Then again, I'm not exactly Mr. Money Bags, either. But, from the looks of things, this Larry guy must be. I don't think I could ever part with mine. Someone would have to offer me something really spectacular in exchange, like a nice 427 Cobra kit-car or something.

After reading this thread, I popped for some gauges myself. I went with the Innovate MTX, for AFR, and I already have an auto-meter vacuum gauge. I should be getting my Revolution gauges in the mail, this evening. I went with the 4" GPS Speedo w/ turn indicators, 4" quad combo gauge (so that I don't have to make more room for extra gauges and just use the stock locations) and a 2 5/8" tachometer. I'll edit this post and attach some pictures when I get them, hopefully, when I'm done with class tonight. Edit: These actual came about 10 minutes after I made this post, but I was getting ready to leave for class, so I couldn't take pics until I got home.

I agree that their comments went a bit far. I mean, most of it wasn't even funny. Like one or two racy jabs wouldn't have been tasteless. If all you've got to pan about the car is its point of origin, then you're obviously reaching. In all fairness, the British should really look at their domestic automotive industry. It took Ford buying Jaguar to get them to make something that would run long enough to at least drive it off the lot. If the comments they made about the industry reflecting the national culture, then I'd assume that all British people are gawdy, angular and unreliable.

Fixed. Seriously, that's all they got. Bad teeth, bad food, worse weather. Well, that and the accents. I'm not one to berate Mexican ingenuity. The good news is: if something breaks, duct tape and bungee cords will be the factory recommended method of repair and it will use tequila or Tecate/King Cobra as a flex fuel. The bad news is: you will probably get pulled over sometime after your purchase, then you will find out that the wheels and emblems are stolen property.

I have the Momo pedals from MSA. I haven't installed them yet, but if you trim the stock pedals down, the Momos should fit nicely and look snazzy. I will take pics and post them once I finish my interior. Seems like a lot of work and money to get pedals from another car just so that you have metal pedal pads (say that three times fast!). You'd probably have to change/adjust the brake-light switch mechanism, as well as deal with the clutch master-cylinder (if applicable) and rectify the difference in the throttle cable attachment. Not to mention, the pedal box is kind of a structural component of the car. Momo pedal pads:

I was looking into getting some revolution series gauges for my v8 swap car, as well. Every single install I've seen here looks amazing. The 4" gauges are the best/easiest fit in the stock tach/speedo locations, right? My problem is I'd rather avoid losing any instrumentation, but it seems the only way to get the gauges I want in the stock space available is to get the Quad combo gauge and opt for the 2 5/8" tachometer. When I'm driving on the street, I don't really even "use" the tach, I just have this feeling that aesthetically it'll look "funny." It's also about $350 cheaper to buy this set-up than to buy the tach, speedo and the six other gauges I want separately. Does the stock Z fuel-level sender work with their gauges?

If I were going to pull a trailer, I'd look for one of those ultra-lites or tear-drops (vice a tent?). The trick, I believe is to keep the tongue weight less than or equal to 150 lbs. I was planning on rigging my Z for towing small items once the V8 swap is done. Scamp makes a fully-equipped 13' camping trailer that has a 120lbs. tongue weight. Why not get one of those nice roof racks? All the "JDM Purple Stuff" kids are putting them on their cars, now. I never thought I'd see the day when a bike/luggage rack became "stylish." You can get weatherproofed cargo pods that resemble something like the trailer Tony D posted, if you don't want a hitch. I would put the heavier things in the rear-deck (like the cooler) and put the tent, sleeping bags and cooking supplies in the pod.

I really like the look of the Watanabes, but for what they charge for them you'd think you'd end up with a lighter weight wheel in the end. There are "better" wheel choices out there, but not many look as good. Also, when it comes to being a truly custom made wheel $550 isn't that expensive. The only exceptions I know of off the top of my head is something like Diamond Racing Wheels, custom made to whatever specifications you want, again the downside is weight, they're a steel wheel. Centerlines are also pretty lightweight, but to get a custom set, it'll run you $300/wheel, easy.

CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, BUT WOULDN'T IT BE EASIER TO RETAIN THE L28ET'S EXISTING EFI AND GO FROM THERE? THE HOLLEY 650 YOU ARE USING, WHAT IS THE MODEL/PART #, DOES IT HAVE THE SEALED SHAFTS OR ARE YOU DOING THE CRAZY POSITIVE PRESSURE SET-UP? I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN SEEING PICTURES OF YOUR MANIFOLD, IT SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF FAB. FROM YOUR DESCRIPTION IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU WILL BE MOUNTING THE TURBOS ON THE RIGHT SIDE, WHAT WAS THE IMPETUS FOR THIS DECISION? WEIGHT-BALANCE? SPACE?

I wanted to do a VK series v8 swap, until I realized they're more expensive than a LSx engine. The cylinder heads are also huge, which makes fitment a chore.

Michael: They lost torque in the low-end in exchange for a "peakier" power band. I wouldn't call that "inferior" results, I'd call it tuning. Not everybody wants to melt their tires at a stop-light. Personally, I'd want my power-band to be just above where I might be cruising on the freeway. Another guy that does AutoX or road-race might favor a higher RPM performer.

One thing I don't think has been touched on exactly in the discussion that has taken place so far is the stoichiometry of ethanol is different than petroleum spirits (gasoline). That can contribute considerably to inefficiency and creating lean conditions in the case of blended fuels. E85 is in the neighborhood of 9.75:1 AFR. Which means you would need a roughly 35% increase in fuel volume per cycle vs. gasoline. I know a few guys that run "DSMs" (Earlier model Eclipses/Starions, etc. using the 4G63 motor) on E85 with "good" results (Low emissions, ridiculous horsepower, but extremely laughable fuel economy), but for those of us not looking to run 20PSI turbo set-ups on our street cars, I'd say keep your corn out of my fossilized animal carcasses. I know that they actually had to change a lot of the seals and the pumps they were using, as well as step-up injector volume in order to properly complete the switch over. I know someone mentioned Ethanol's corrosive properties when in contact with certain materials, but most cars, even carbureted, can be converted to use ethanol safely, but it does require replacement of seals (to a different material), typically you will need a higher volume pump and injectors (or bigger jets in the case of a carb), also composite material fuel-tanks are not recommended (I don't think I'd want a plastic tank in something I drove on the street anyway, but to each his own!). Another thing that bothers me about using Ethanol as a replacement for a certain volume of gasoline is that while yes it might burn cleaner than gasoline does which might help keep populated coastal cities (like NY, LA, SD, SF, etc.) from choking on our own lifestyles, it comes at a greater cost than people realize. They can only make 330 Gallons of E85 (probably more like 1000~1100 gallons of E10 or E15) per acre of purpose-grown corn. You know how much energy and resources it costs to grow an acre of corn? More than one yields from burning the ethanol it produces, that's for sure. So, really, we're just swapping one environmental concern for another, smog for burnt soil, but we're losing efficiency in the system while we're at it. I'd rather have arable land, with enough fallowing time/nutrients in it to grow food that isn't just dietary filler. I am having trouble finding the source, but it's probably in the legislation itself, that the government is currently subsidizing the production of ethanol fuels, due to the fact that it's mandated something that domestic processors and distributors of petroleum weren't entirely geared up for. So, what did they do? Whine, moan and pay off a few senators to get the rest of us to make up the difference. So, the "low price" of ethanol is not only just hiding the cost, but it's probably going to change and then the cost of all these no-longer-subsidized-ethanol blends will skyrocket. High ethanol content blends are great for anyone wanting to run a 600HP+ turbo daily driver and get it to pass CA emissions, though. I just don't think we should have it pushed on us, because not all of us drive newer fuel-injected vehicles with the proper supporting equipment to run ethanol blended fuels. Not that carb'd vehicles can't, it's just that in most cases, when efficiency and cost vs. benefit is considered, carbureted engines will run far more efficiently on petroleum spirits. I don't think 15% ethanol content is enough to worry about corrosion or fuel-system compromise, but it definitely starts to lower the efficiency curve at that point, it would force us carb'd guys to have to run richer. I tried to keep my "argument" technical in nature and only injected opinion which I felt was based on established fact. Edit: I was able to find some links to the corn subsidies information. This kind of goes hand-in-hand with what TimZ was saying, "Why make a big deal about energy content per volume?" Because privately owned automobiles are only a small percentage of the actual consumers of ethanol blended fuels, and in cases where energy yield by volume is critical (such as in the case of power production) it makes a huge difference in resource and monetary investment vs. net yield. Not that your car's power-plant doesn't suffer efficiency losses because there's less energy by volume in ethanol, but it might be less overtly noticeable. Source: http://zfacts.com/p/63.html