Savage42

In a perfect world, both mounts would be right over the crossmember. The right side mounts to where the A/C compressor used to be and you can't do that on the other side, since that where the alternator is. The starter is the chunk of space that keeps you from being able to build a mount on the right side like the drivers side. At least there is a way to adapt the Gen III motor and someone did the engineering to get it in there as a "bolt in". It works!!

Getting tires very soon! ;^)

I always thought they were the best looking "factory" wheel. I had a set on my 510 with race tires, but they sure look sweet when polished. I'd go with a clear power coat. It's the toughest and will last the longest, although a bit spendy, I'm sure. Get them on the car and put up some pics!

Here's another pic I took today with it mocked up with the crossmember. Definitely some great engineering and the way to go!

Here's the JCI kit, done in a clear zinc finish. The motor mounts are $295 for the pair and trans mount is $135, which comes to $430.

Not that I've heard of. You can spend the money and try to see or make it work or spend the money on a kit that is known to work. Is buying both kits really that much cheaper than buying the JCI kit? Besides the $430 for the JCI kit, you'll still need to buy everything else, so I guess it's a matter if your time and money to buy both kits to experiment is worth it. With the JTR kit at $275 and the other at $???, what are you really saving?

There's pressure in those hoses, not vacuum, so it would be leaking or spraying fuel, not sucking air. Sounds like you don't have enough volume or fuel pressure, so I'd check your filter, then look at the pump. Parts can fail, both old and new. Good luck!

See avatar.

I know of several guys who filled in their pillar vents on their 510s and with new seals on the car, you have to keep slamming the doors or crack the windows to get them to shut easily. It isn't just for cooling, but to keep the interior from being too sealed. Just thought I'd pass that along. I figured it wouldn't be much of a snow plow/ice racer type car, so those other mods will work in that case. I know many on the forum have their cars as daily drivers and I thought I'd point out the pros & cons to help them out. Either way, it looks good. Keep the shiny side up!!

Wow, you did all that and you live in Canada? There are 3 mods I would not do simply due to the fact that I live in Oregon (weather being a factor). I like the doors to shut easily, so getting rid of the interior vent hole in the C-pillar isn't the best idea. It also rains a bit here in Oregon, so getting rid of drip rails tends to make water come down on your lap or on the seat when you open the door. Lastly, it will freeze once in a while here and it's hard enough to open the doors when you have a handle to pull on when they are frozen shut, so no shaved handles for me. I guess I'm just into functionality, although I commend you on your originality and willingness to get creative. "To each his own" and if you can do that stuff and not have any issues, that's cool. I also welded the headlight bucket to the fenders, but I also shaved front & rear marker lights. If you don't have a nickname for your car, how about "Darth Vader"?

Dave, I'm glad I was able to hook you up with Peter to get that car. Can't think of a better person to have it and very cool to make it a trip you and your son will remember forever! Hope we get to meet up sometime in the near future!

That would mean "making it more sharp and more straight". It's cool to choose whether or not to have that body line, but one that fades in and out or isn't straight makes it look really bad.

Yes, the sharp body line that runs from the rear quarter all the way to the front fender. I had my friend put in about 20 hrs of extra time in working that body line. It's obvious, with or without, it sure gives the car a different look.