Savage42

I hear ya! Glad I got my plates when I started mine, too. (put my plates as my Avatar) Definitely a great writeup and makes things a bit easier for anyone doing the swap. Rock on!

I ran ZX struts in the front of my 510 http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/readers_dime_2_3.html and I ran 1" adapters in the front and 1/2 spacers in the rear. I could have went with a 1" adapter in the rear, too, but decided not to go that route. You cannot add negative camber in the rear w/o slotting. If the rears stick out too much, then why don't you got with without the spacers? Are you running a different bolt pattern with those adapters? Can you get those wheels in 4x4.5? Good luck.

I've always thought the same thing. The standard ratio for a C5 Vette with an auto is 2.73 and optional 3.15 and all 6 speed cars (including the Z06) come with 3.42. Being a 280Z is about 500lbs lighter than a Vette (3250 lbs for coupe & 3118 lbs for Z06), going with gears close to OEM would work well, as the factory does goes for be the best "all around" setup. I'll try the 3.36 LSD with the LS6/4L60E combo first and see how it works. Should have enough poo to light them up, anyway. Of course, tire diameter also comes into play. I bet most have tires shorter than the 275/40-18s or 295/35-18s on back of a Vette, too.

Are you referring to getting rid of the pilar emblems? I like them and they do serve a purpose in not sealing the interior. Anyway, I was referring to the body line that goes from the rear edge and goes just along the top of the rear fender to the front fender. Some cars have a sharp edge, others don't have one. Difference in body work, for sure. My car had an edge that wasn't consistent, so I had it redone to sharpen the line all the way across the side of the car.

Guys, it's interesting to see different Z car with the "disappearing" body line and those with a highlighted body line. What do you guys think and if you did body & paint, which way did you go? Here are just 2 quick examples:

You are right. Meant to say rubber on the one side. You just want solid stuff on the braking force side. Like you said, those of us who do Rockfords (me, on occassion) need to have a heim setup to control loads going both ways.

You might post something on the Datsun 510 (bluebirds) list, as there are several 510s with that swap. Good luck!

Yep, many TC rod failures with poly bushings on 510s, also. The answer is the ball/socket setup on one side and the poly on the other. Nobody has had any issues with that setup, at least that I've heard of.

Not a problem. I'll get it all off and ship it off to you. Send me your address. As for the Z, I wasn't happy with the body lines and some of the paint, so we are currently reblocking the car and fixing the little things. Just put new valve stem seals in the LS6 heads and waiting for the LS6 MAF and underdrive pulley to show up. I need to ship off the ECM to get it reflashed to LS6 spec and it should be good to go. I'll have plenty of new pics over the next few weeks and I'm shooting for the big Datsun meet in B.C. Canada in early September. Do you have the radiator hose numbers for your car? I also need to work on getting the A/C stuff, too. Fun stuff!

I'm pulling all my e-brake stuff out of my car as we speak. I'll be nice and not just cut everything out and you can have it. That work for you? How fast do you need it?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121665

The answer is definitely "YES". Since Dave has shown he can get this to work in an autocross and take top times out of 150+ cars, it can work. If you can make it work well for quick, tight stuff like autocrossing, stuff like track days, hillclimbs, etc is a piece of cake. Example: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122599