Savage42

I've had the 6 pound lithium in my 2008 G37S coupe for 5 years now and put 95k miles on it during that time, still going strong. Have one in my 280Z with LS6 for 3 years, all good and I know Phantom (Bill Davis) has one in his LS1 powered 280Z for several years, as well. Many 510s & Z cars (S30 up to Z34) are running them. As is the case with any vehicle that isn't driven at least a few times a week, you want to keep a charger on it to keep the parasitic draw from discharging the battery and "cycling" it because ALL batteries will last longer if kept at or near 100% state of charge, so regular driving or kept on a charger are the best solutions if there is a draw. The other benefit with a Braille lithium is they don't self-discharge like lead, so if disconnected at the terminals or via a disconnect switch (like most race cars), the battery can sit for a year or two and still be at 80-90% state of charge, where a lead battery will be dead by then. The right size/model and proper maintenance is key to long life, but where a smaller AGM battery will average 3 years (more depending on several factors), a lithium battery will last 10-15 years. Other factors are goals & budget (size, weight savings, more power, longer lasting, better performing, etc.) as to which AGM or lithium battery is best for a given vehicle and how it is used.

The opening in the housing just needs to be enlarged. I put the squirrel cage on top of the opening and used a scribe to trace out how much it needed to be opened and used a grinder to just removed the little amount of material so it would slide in. That was it.

Poly and solid mounts are what I call "vibration enhancers", which is great when trying to find an annoying buzz or rattle (since it makes them REALLY bad & you can finally get rid of it), but for anything other than a race car, I stick with rubber, as well.

Should be fine. Any modern “smart charger” designed for AGM batteries is good.

I would second everything said in the previous post. You must enlarge the hole for the Kia cage to fit and the electrical connector on my ‘78 280Z worked fine, as well.

Depends on Group size, but typically.... Red Top - 38 lbs.....Yellow Top - 50 lbs.....Braille GU1R - 6.4 pounds and last MUCH longer!

LS6 / 4L60E in my '78 280Z

2 x Large short sleeve in New Silver Zip 34238

It's funny how we both used the same stretch of road in our videos!

I posted pics of the setup in a previous post (above), but here is a video inside the car (pretty quiet with the whole car having dynamat on entire floor from firewall to tail light panel) and an external video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buv8BZUvj3c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heKu1qdrbzg It is quite and sounds good for only have a single stainless Magnaflow muffler with dual 2.5" inlet and single 3" outlet.

The function and feel of my brakes is fine, just done like having the fluid messing up the paint in my engine compartment. Anyway, it wasn't enough for me to even notice, aside from being wet under the MC.

Unfortunately, I did not. It took some driving and hammering the brakes to notice the small amount of fluid leaking from between the MC & booster. I called Wilwood and am getting it sorted out with a new rebuild kit.

Looks like mine is leaking, too. Crazy that so many have that problem.

I have the F-body pan and added the Improved Racing (hinged) baffles and the crank scraper. Should be good to go and clearance isn't bad since I didn't slam my car.

I don't have a shot while on the rack, but this may help. I copied a friend's car that has an old school SBC with the same piping & muffler and it sounded good, as well. Not the prettiest, but functional and didn't cost me a fortune.

I have a dual 2.5" mandrel bent tubing with x-pipe going all the way back to a Magnaflow dual in / 3" outlet in the stock location. I went with thicker 14 gauge tubing to keep noise down. This is a video from the outside: This is inside my car with my iPhone 7 and a blast at 70% throttle in 2nd gear. Quieter than I expected:

Got my DZ-Start kit with RFID in the mail yesterday. Woo-hoo! I've seen aftermarket kits that cost double and bet the Dave's quality is as good or better than those ones. If you have worn door & ignition cylinders, time to upgrade to this kit with power door locks!

I have the same transmission & shifter and didn't bother with the switch. I am installing Dave Irwin's push button start setup that requires the foot to be on the brake to start, so I just went that route. My old '67 Chevy short/wide P/U had a 350 with TH400 without any sort of safety switch and I did happen to start it once when still in gear in all the years I owned it and didn't have any issues. Just another option to to make sure you don't start it without your foot on the brake. Hope that helps.

Sure. The Spal setup comes with the finishing pieces to cover up where the window crank used to be.

I sent both my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch to Dave Irwin at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net. Turn around time was less than 48 hours and they look and work like new. The combo switch was broken/jammed and he replaced the arm inside, polished the plastic and replaced connections. On his advice, I upgraded the flasher relays to modern electronic flashers and it all works better than new. For $130 shipped to get both switches done is well worth it. Just my 2 cents.

If I had to pay someone $80-100/hr to do all the work I've done on my car, it would have cost me.......ONE MILLION DOLLARS! ;^) I stopped keeping track a long time ago in what I have into the car in just receipts with NO LABOR, since I've done everything from a bare shell to just completed car except for the alignment guy and the one who welded my exhaust together. As mentioned, there are "quick & easy" swaps (for less money) or those who pay attention to detail and make it look "factory" for real money. With mounting and wiring kits, along with all the info on here, it's not a real difficult swap, just extremely time consuming.

Are the hood release cables still available somewhere? You'd think after 40+ years, they should be replaced, anyway. Either that or someone could likely make a good electric solenoid setup for it with a heavy duty actuator.

Clarkspeed is correct. At least he is looking at making the car handle better, but good tires are the cheapest, easiest and quickest way to go faster around a track. After that, you spend more money for smaller chunks of time. I am amazed at how many people will add tons of power (no matter what make or model of vehicle) and then run hard with stock or cut spring suspension, stock brakes and the worst tires.....not to mention no desire to actually learn how to become a better driver. At least you have a ton of info to go through on here to see what you want to do based on goals, budget, etc.

I installed the Spal power window kit into my 280Z without any issues, cutting or any other mods.....very simple & straightforward.

The current aftermarket inner tie rods (only ones available) do look different than the OE tie rods and that unlike the originals that are left & right hand thread, they only come in right hand thread. This means you need to also change the outer tie rod to the right side one so everything matches up. Pretty much the way it has been for a decade. As for the one pictured above (on the right), it doesn't look to be the correct one. It looks like the inner tie rod for the later 300ZX and 200SX as seen here: www.ebay.com/itm/Beck-Arnley-101-3626-Tie-Rod-End-Fits-Nissan-Datsun-300ZX-280ZX-200SX-810-/360554189785 Case in point is that the ones made by "Rare Parts" are the only ones you can still purchase and you can see the actual picture of their part on the Jegs site: http://www.jegs.com/i/Rare+Parts/202/RP26575/10002/-1 If you look at the picture for the same part on Amazon, it has a picture of an OE inner tie rod, which is incorrect for the Rare Parts actual part. https://www.amazon.com/Rare-Parts-RP26575-Tie-Rod/dp/compatibility-chart/B000CK8XTS On a side note, I must have found the last pair of Moog inner tie rods on the planet on eBay about a month back. I knew the part number and someone had a pair in the old Moog boxes from back in the day. They are still both RH, so I had the change the outer T3 tie rod, but once I opened the box, they were wrapped up in the original Nissan bag with OE part number. SCORE!!