jeff81

Thank you I guess I am being a little obsessive compulsive. I am glad to hear that since if I get a modular wheel I might do that type of maintenance when I get new tires, but not yearly. I just don't want anything to go wrong on my Z. Jeff

I am actually having to move to Memphis. I have seen active Z groups in both east TN and around Nashville, but none in Memphis. Are there any Z cars close or in Memphis? Will I be the only Z car driver (S30) in the city? I have not lived there in years so I can't say that I have seen any on the road. Just trying to find people that might help me out if necessary or that I might help with their build. Jeff

I know that I have seen this same recommendation from one of the modular wheel manufacturing sites: Modular Wheel Inspection and Maintenance Two & Three piece modular wheels require periodic maintenance. You'll want to work out your own maintenance schedule, but here's an example of what the manufacturer recommends. Each Season disassemble, thoroughly inspect, clean, re-seal, and re-torque each wheel: Replace wheel bolts each season Wheel Bolt Torque: 1/4" bolts 15 ft/lbs. or 180 in./lbs 5/16" bolts 20 ft/lbs. After thoroughly cleaning all mating surfaces with an appropriate cleaner, add a thin skim coat of silicone sealant to these surfaces, assemble wheel and torque bolts to recommended torque Install a new valve stem Add a thick coat of silicone sealant to the drop center area of the wheel and let it cure for 24 hours before initial useDoes this only apply to track cars or DD?

I read that most 3 piece modular rims need regular maintenance. How much do the tools cost or how much does it cost to have done at a local shop? Also, do 2 piece rims need the similar annual maintenance as a 3 piece? I don't have a lot of space or tools so I may have to pay for this for the next few years. Is it worth it to order crazy expensive one piece rims in the sizes? (I know there are cheaper one piece rims that would do well, but I am looking at putting something a little different.) Thanks for the help. Jeff Yes I have read almost every sticky in this technical section and tried a couple of searchs, but I definitely could have missed things since most reading is done pretty late at night. Most likely anyone on here knows this and that is why is not covered in the stickys.

The custom (actually custom) wheels look great. What size are you planning on doing them, 18 inch? Jeff

Can we get a pic with it installed? Jeff

I get a hold of them and they discussed the options with me about 1 month ago. I replied asking for a price with the options that I wanted and have not heard anything since. I will try to contact them again this week, but I am not expecting too much. If I hear anything definitive, I will post it. Opinions - What type of construction would you guys recommend? Last Communication Below I can build pure CF or FG and CF. both will be both pretty strong. You will still need to have the support bars in the roof though. I am using 1 FG and 3 CF on my car. I cut out most of the roof. Clarence

Get Firefox, its free and more stable than IE.

Amazing

So how much does the kit cost? Jeff

Hey I am looking at adding a BRE spook to my 280Z. Yes a little different. I am a little concerned of what it may look like, but either way I am considering buying one and trying it from a group called Futo Fab. Does anyone know anything about them? Does anyone have any experience with their work? I have contacted them and seems ok, but I wanted to check with all of you that have years of experiences. I wanted a nice quality carbon fiber front spook and MSA and showcars have had some not so positive reviews. Please let me know anything you can about them. The price seems good and here is the link of their work on a 510 spook spoiler: http://datsun510.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=3559 Link sent by one of the employees there. FutoFab, LLC 199 Stark Hwy So Dunbarton, NH 03046-4411 I am waiting to get the picture of what their BRE spook front spoiler looks like since I have seen 3 different versions from 2 of the 3 vendors I have found. Thanks Jeff If this is a really bad idea to try a spook on a 280Z please let me know also. Admins let me know if there is a problem with anything or adding a link that I recieved via email. I'll be happy to make edits as needed.

Thank you for all your input. The mechanic I am using is a little slow to get things done it seems but his work is high quality. I am glad to hear that I can make this work. Jeff

If the R/T mount wont work with the Q45 diff, is there something else you would suggest? Jeff

Hey I know that MSA and showcars sites offer the spoiler that I want, but I have read some things that makes me question whether to purchase them from those stores or go elsewhere. I am hoping that one of you would be able to direct me to someone that can make or sell me a high quality CF version of this spoiler. Let me know if anyone has any leads. I have been emailing vendors and most have no response that I take as a no. Thank you so much for your help Jeff

I would definitely like to know how they turn out and if they destroy the ground clearance since my LS1 conversion is a DD. Jeff

I am having a guy that has built a few rail drag cars and other race cars along with kit cars. I told him how important it is to strengthen things up. Since he is going to media blast it and then repair all the rust along with a 6 point roll cage (custom) if it can fit with me in there (6'2" 215), that should work. I was thinking more along the line of specific types or should I just go with whatever: Radiators I have read it all and seems like Ron Davis racing or something like that is a great brand. I have read everything on the spring rates on this site and what shocks I should switch to when my suspension goes. Tokico Iluminas 5 way adjustable. I am thinking that 17x9 or 17x9.5 all the way around if I can fit it. Alternator - Does it matter the brand? Are there types of tricks or other conversion that I need other than the Ron Tyler front mount? (The more things that I can get now the faster he will be able to finish the car.) Thanks for replies. Jeff Is this thread in the correct location: LS1 4th generation V8 right moderators?

Having searched a lot and using what I have found up to this point I would like some further help: I have the manual JTR and the conversion is all JCI kit I am about to start a full restoration-modification of my 1977 280Z. I have an LS1 crate, new T56, rebuilt Q45 rear differential, and CVs. I bought the rear conversion kit from modern motorsports and a RT front transmission mount. The suspension will have completely new bushings AZ suspension for all 4 corners with wildwood brake conversion. I have the mechanical emergency brake kit, thanks…. Body will be basically stock with DOT approved HID conversion, ZG flares (not sure which ones yet), different hood vents, and louvered inspection lids. Since I have read all the overheating issues and the aero threads, I will be getting a strong radiator with duel fans and making a radiator box while sealing off the rest of the front end. I am considering a BRE front spoiler, maybe rear also, but I would want them in CF along with the ZG flares. The issue that I have is that this will be my daily driver car. If I get stuck I am just that stuck. So are there certain parts or other things that I should get in order to make this thing truly reliable? I am not a mechanic or an engineer. I have been given the opportunity to do almost whatever I want to the car whether its parts or other conversions this first time. After the initial build I will be on my own. I am a poor college kid that will have to deal with 100% of the cost instead of partial cost of this creation of my dream car. Are there certain starters or other parts (Brands or Specific Types) that I need to truly make this reliable? Is this conversion actually able to be reliable? Should I start saving for the high end AAA service? Is this just a dream or can it actually work out?

Any updates? Jeff

Those are aftermarket. MSA did have them for a while, but their supplier whom also is on this site has been unable to get a new supplier. Search Hood vents and you will find the thread about it. Jeff

In need of some direction. I have read quite a bit in the search. I also am no racer, machinist, or engineer. So could someone give me their opinion/understanding about whether I have the clearance for a air dam or should stick with the stock valence? I have a 1977.5 280Z in the midst of an LS1, T56, AZ competition strut assembly with ride height adjusters.... all AZ Car brakes and all, with Q45 diff and CV conversions by MM. I know what you are thinking and yes this may be too much car for someone that has this little knowledge but either do it right or not at all. I am going to daily drive and keep this car essentially forever (Gift from someone important). I know the ride height is adjustable, but is it significantly adjustable to daily drive with an air dam without any problems. The city that I will be DD in is Memphis TN. My brother in laws 2000 maximum can scrape the front end getting in and out of his driveway. (His shocks and struts are not great) So do the air dams hang low enough to cause and issue or not? Are they worth it (read that they make a noticeable difference at highway speeds)? I have yet to determine wheels, tires, or fender flares at this point. (Admins - how do I delete this thread if no one answers this question like my other ones that I have posted?) Thanks Jeff (next year I will be DNI if it is anywhere reasonably close to memphis)

Updates? jeff