clutchdust

I would agree with daddydonuts if it were a stock carbed motor. With the triple Webers, I'm thinking maybe a grand if it's a running engine.

It's a beautifully done car. I can completely believe that if someone brought me a plan jane 40 year old car and told me to make it perfect that my bill would be about that. Some people have money and don't care what something costs. Of course I have no idea what that's like.

Yep, that's him. Just got back from the show. Took a few pics of him and the toys he brought out. Will post up later. Nice guy.

I've heard of him but don't really know much about him. Anyway, a couple weeks ago I sold a set of rims off the 78 I parted out to a guy. He came over and was telling me about BRE, which is kind of new information to me. He tells me that BRE has a shop around the corner. So today I had a little time and I cruise by. Sure enough, there's "BRE" on the shop window. I go in and chat up this nice lady in the front. We talk for about five minutes and she says, "oh, there's Peter now." Up pulls this Daytona coupe that sounds like it's about to rip out the pavement underneath the tires. Peter walks in and the nice lady introduces me to him and tells him my story. He says, "oh yeah, you have the white Z a couple streets over. Right?" "Yes, well, actually it's grey", I say. Then he goes in the back and I tell the nice lady I will stop by their booth at the car show this afternoon. May take some pictures and post them up later.

I am curious to know why you really want to do a 350 swap on a car you aren't planning on keeping. I'm sure you can find an L6 somewhere out there for cheap. I just think it would be far cheaper to put it together kind of like it came than to do the swap. I may be wrong but I don't think you'll get out of it what it costs you to do the swap.

I say build it. Of course, I have a L28e that would go in there nicely, but that's another story. If you put an engine in it and even a couple junky seats you can actually sell it as a driveable project car and that will bring in way more than if you just sell it as a shell.

Haven't done it yet but this is what I'm going to do. Went to the JY and pulled an entire fusebox from a Saturn. Cost me all of $11. Of course, I'm not doing a swap or anything. I just want to get rid of that pathetic little fuse box in the center console.

What I would like to know is have you determined where this stiffness is? Is it in the original linkage? Or the new stuff? I've never noticed any stiffness in my linkage so I'm curious as to where the bind is. If it's not in the original linkage I would think a cable set up won't address the issue. But maybe I just don't understand what's in bind.

Not sure where, think it's in the FAQ section, but I've seen a thread that shows the springs off the car with measurements. Thread even has the coil count and such.

Personally, I don't really see a lot of Vette in it but as hideous as the design may be, it looks well done.

I think that would look pretty good as long as the ends were done well. But I'm a fan of a little more subtle than the over the top stuff. Since it's just stuck with double sided tape, can you just take it and lay it on the hatch and post a pic so we can get a little better idea of what it might look like?

Good to know. I barely have a functioning knowledge of the 240s, much less the differences between them and the 260/280s. The more I learn, the more I'm surprised is different.

You may be in luck. I'm cutting up a 78 280. Picked it up for a few pieces, the tank and spare tire are not parts I intend to keep. I'll be happy to cut out whatever you need and send it to you (for the cost of shipping, of course).

Sounds good to me. I'm more interested in the carbs anyway, that's the main reason I bought the car, that and the differential. I did some searching for info but since I don't really know the model/type, it turned up a bunch of different Webers. Thanks to Leon, I can narrow that down now and get some decent info. FWIW, this system is just going on my track car for the time being. I have another engine I was building for the track car but know I won't get it done for a while. This way I can get the track car on track next year. Once I have that other engine done I'll probably drop this engine in my '73 and sell it as a running project car.

I have a pair of SUs that need to be rebuilt. No desire or interest in them. I put the Arizona Z/Holley on my '72 and love it. Would rather do that but as I stated, I stumbled on this car and was hoping to make it work. But by all means, if anybody has a Holley/Az intake, let me know.

What can you tell me about the Webers? I just want to get my car running. I'm not even sure what model they are or anything. I just know buying this whole car was cheaper than the Arizona Z/Holley set up I wanted.

Thinking about the supporting member thing if I can send in a check or MO. Don't do paypal. As far as the site itself, there's good information here, but.... The interior is totally shot, short of the pass and rear seat. Nothing else inside is salvageable. Well, I need to really look at it more but maybe the door panels but as we all know, those are 2+2 specific. I figured the rims might be worth something but personally, I just can't see paying good money for a 14" wheel. I'll let you know on the tranny when I get it out.

Ran across an ad on CL yesterday for a 280z parts car. Call the guy to see what he had. I was just looking for a couple decent front fenders but he really just wanted to sell the whole car. I took a look at it and this is what I got. Sorry for the craptastic pic. Don't know what happened there. Anyway, it's a 78 2+2. I gave $350 for it. It's nearly complete but is truly not fit for anything but a parts car. The interior is trash. The pass and rear seat are just about the only thing worth having. Major rust on the lower frame rails. But this is the real reason I jumped on it for $350. I figure this intake system is worth the price of admission by itself. I'm salvaging the intake/carbs, front sheetmetal and diff. I will part out the engine, tranny (5-speed), wheels and front/rear suspension. The rest of the car will get cut up and sent to the recycler. Since I'm not a supporting member and precluded from posting F/S ads, if there is anything that you want not mentioned above, let me know. I'll salvage it and it's free (you pay shipping). But speak up quickly, this thing is going to be gone one way or another in the next two weeks.

At least from the pictures you supplied, it doesn't look too bad. But you described much worse. So which is it? And by the way, would you mind actually posting how much the seller is asking? It might go a long way in determining. For $200, I'd say jump on it. For $2000, no way.

Based on the info you have provided, start over. No way to tell without having more details about what you've done. I will agree that it is unlikely the TPS is bad if it worked fine immediately before removed and hasn't been run over by a truck or something. If you think it's timing the first thing I would do is rotate the engine over to the TDC mark on the balancer and pop off the distributor cap and see where the rotor lines up. Should be pretty damn close to the #1 terminal. But since you've said you had the head off, what did you do to verify the cam is timed correctly?

I can relate. A guy in our local Corvette club asked me to help him change his battery (I know, right?). His car is an '03 and I have an '01 and an '81. We were talking about the differences and I told him how much I enjoyed the '81. The c5 ('97-'04) cars are just incredible, they do absolutely everything better. They handle better, get better mileage, have more power (most of the time) and are more reliable. But there is just more of a connectedness when I drive my '81. It's loud and rattles, and it tries to kill me if I screw up, but I still just love how it feels when I drive it.

Damn man, + however many on the attorney. Glad your injuries weren't more obviously extensive than they appear. But as others have said, you need to be thoroughly checked out by a doctor and retain an attorney on this one. There could be long term effects being masked right now by adrenaline and shock. Sad for the car but the attorney can probably help you with that too. It can be replaced or repaired. Keep us posted.

Do you want that one just to keep it all stock looking? Relay (in this case) is a relay. You can pick up one of those "ice cube" relays, complete with a pigtail and everything, for under $20. THIS should do anything you need. If you want a Datsun one, your best bet is going to be a salvage yard or these boards.

You may be able to find some chemical means, like "naval jelly" for the block. I don't know how that would work on the head though. But I'm afraid to say that your best bet may be the mechanical option, i.e. you with various tools scraping it off as best you can.

Since there's no hydraulic followers on the cam, the most important thing I would suggest is make sure the engine rotates freely by hand before actually putting the starter to it. Even if you're off on the cam timing, at least you won't bend any valves. Just pull the plugs and rotate the crank with a socket. Hell, for that matter, you can rotate it off the cam since you won't have any compression (although this is not advisable). As long as you don't run into "clunk, clunk" manually, the worst that will happen is you have to go through the hassle of lining up the cam and crank to get the cam timing right. Just don't do it again without lining up the timing marks before you start pulling **** apart. As for the bolt, the guy should be right. The only concern is that it might be lodged between the pan and crank sprocket at first. Again, rolling over by hand should allow it to fall into the bottom of the pan. If it has gone or goes into the sump you could put 100000 miles on it without a problem. Oh, and most major parts stores have a valve spring compressor in their loan-a-tool program. Should only cost you about $20 to rent and you get that refunded when you bring the tool back. Just what kind of spring compressor costs $60 anyway?