clutchdust

Well that's kind of a scary read for something passing itself off as a sports car. I like the looks of the new Z and all but I think I'll stick with my s30 and just mod the hell out of it.

If you jump the solenoid directly with the key on does it turn over? What about with the key off? From what you're describing, it almost sounds like the solenoid is shorted.

It's so funny that you put this because subliminally that is pretty much exactly what I think of when I see the S130. I know it wasn't a bad car but the association I make with the two chassis are completely different. When I see an S30, whether restored to stock or in race trim, I think of a light, nimble sports car. When I see the S130, I see a boulevard cruiser driven by guys with half unbuttoned shirts sporting the gold chains.

If you can't actually get to the cover plate, there is a "hump" in the casting for the extra gear on the 5-speed. Think it's on the PS if I'm not mistaken.

I vote for jackstands/fixing it. Unlikely you will get out of it what you need. If you have time, like finishing college, it will give you the opportunity to go to the junk yard every few months in hopes of finding a suitable donor car. Problem is, these cars are only becoming more rare. BTW, you mind posting circumstances that put you in the guard rail? Not really our business, but I'm curious.

Wow! Talk about taking one for the team. Sorry to see it bite the dust. Hopefully his insurance will handle it to your satisfaction. What's a Narvara?

Kill it with fire. Sirius.

The thing that's been bothering me about your build is having to stick with a factory exhaust casting. This is seriously going to restrict how much power you can build in any engine. So my question is, will this be a one-time inspection? Or will the officials inspect your car annually? If it's a one-time thing, then just slap on whatever they want to see, pass, drive home and put good stuff on. If this will be an annual inspection, you may want to consider something like THIS for the stock manifold. You can do both intake and exhaust.

I agree. I still like to see a visually attractive car on the track. Note the Consulier cars of the 80's and 90's. Ugliness like that simply should not be endured. Contrast that to the AM, 458 Italia or ZR1. They're just stunningly good looking cars in race trim. Still, I think the best looking race cars were about 10 years ago with the Audi R8 and Panoz LMP-1. There's a reason they don't hire ugly girls at strip joints.

There is just an amazing amount of time, money and energy put into that much stupidity.

Nevermind.

I am curious to know why you're choosing a Z for the project. Nothing wrong with it, "because I want to" is a perfectly valid reason (not my first choice though). It just seems to me there are far better, and cheaper, candidates out there. Maybe an early non-WRX/STI Imprezza for instance. Besides, I'm sure there is someone here who would love to have a good '73 chassis. You going for the '70s rally car style?

I might be convinced to part with my '73. Mostly good body, little cancer on the right front fender, but otherwise straight and clean. No engine/trans and interior is fair. Not really great, but not really bad either. PM me if it sounds interesting.

I really can't comment on whether you should swap it or not, that's a decision only you can and the other owner can make. But that's a beautiful car.

I run a Holley "red" pump with a regulator on mine. It's a little loud with the engine off, but I don't notice it when the engine is running. It's only a little more expensive than some of the other name brand electric pumps and is rebuildable. That part I like.

You know, it seems to me the moral of the story is that it would be wise to consider your own "race trailer" since the both of you now have your own cars. I did this years ago after having driven my car to and from various track events, the "from" being operative with a blown head gasket. Keep your eyes open and you can probably find a suitable starter trailer for <$1000. I put a cheap hand crank winch on mine (from Harbor Freight, $39) which will pull just about anything on the trailer so long as it rolls freely. Make sure you throw multiple pieces of wood block on the trailer so you have an assortment of wheel chocks. Glad you made it back OK. There are pictures floating around the interweb where cars have fallen off the trailer while moving down the road!

Free is always good in cars. What's so special about the clutch that makes it a big deal?

THIS IS NOT ENTIRELY TRUE!!! While it may (and should) be in this case, it's not always true.Just a few weeks ago I hit some guy in the rear with my truck. Highway patrol listed him as 100% at fault. I was driving center lane of the freeway when he gets on. He swerves in front of me all the way over to the fast lane, then swerves all the way back across in front of me all the way back to the slow lane, then right in front of me. That's when I crunched him. Smashed his brand new 2012 Hyundai all the way up to the back doors. I thought for sure they were going to blame me, because like you, I thought a rear end collision was automatically my fault. Fortunately for me, Highway Patrol disagreed. OP may want to check on the rules of the road in his state. I would be worried that someone may claim he "brake checked" her, causing the crash.

Pretty much as you suspect, the electric pump will not be a benefit over a mechanical pump. Actually, a mechanical pump will be far better at pulling a vacuum than an electric pump. The only variable is so long as fuel still covers the pick up tube. And for that to really be a factor you need to be really low on fuel and on a really steep grade. If the OP just wants to put an electric pump on to put an electric pump on, that's a perfectly valid reason. That's basically what I was doing, just did it 'cause I wanted to. But I have no illusion I'm solving some problem that wasn't there. Oh, and for vapor lock (heat) to be a factor, the mechanical pump is relatively far away from a heat source. The engine would be having other heat issues before you would get a fuel pump related issue.

It's a Holley "red" pump and a Jegs regulator. I didn't originally plan on running the red pump, I had a Carter electric pump at first but the pump wouldn't pick up from the tank. If it was primed it would work fine, but if fuel drained out of the pump chamber for any reason, I just couldn't get it to pick the prime back up. Part of the problem is that the pump was mounted so high in the car, it likely would be fine had it been mounted farther down on the rail or something. I have not had a similar problem with the Holley pump, but it is also mounted a little lower inside the fender. As for the regulator, it was just the cheapy one that they sell but you have to be specific when you order. You have to look specifically for one with a return. I ordered what I thought was the same regulator last year for another car and it turned out not to have the return. Keep your eyes on Craigslist and I'm sure you can find a good pump. I have now bought two Holley red pumps and that Carter pump on there. I think I gave $30 for the Carter (which still works if it's mounted low enough) and $40 each on the Holley pumps. The nice thing is the Holley pumps are rebuildable. Not a big fan of Holley carbs, but I do like their pumps.

I respect differing opinions but I went with an electric pump too. A little hard to make out but here's a pic of my set up.

My ex and I bought one back in '95, not sure of the year though, think it was a '89. Great little car. Her's had the 12v motor. Aside from a clutch and DS window regulator, the thing was stone cold reliable for the 9 years we owned it. She's now the ex and the car belongs to someone else but I wouldn't mind still having that car.

Damn shame. Very nice looking "before" pic. I may be able to help with that right headlight bucket if need be. PM me if you haven't found a replacement.

While I haven't experienced the problem you experienced, most of us on this board are well familiar with the combo switch. That would be the first place to start. Then check the ground Morbias mentioned. Almost guarantee the problem is in one of those two.

Well, if that's it, then glad you found it. What about ceramic coating?