blueshark123

Ok so I finally got around to sectioning my struts over the weekend. I have BZ3125 struts which are a little shorter than the commonly used BZ3099 strut. T3 initially advised that I only remove 30mm max from the strut housing. As I was in process of shortening, I took measurements and realized that 30mm is way too small. I ended up having to remove 1.75 inches(~44mm). I called T3 today about another question I had and in the conversation he reaffirmed that I shouldn't remove more than 30mm as the car will sit way too low and that instead I should have used a spacer. Am I ok with leaving them as is or should I look for new strut housings? This is for a 240z with 10inch springs.

that's hilarious. Get that sorted out!

Interesting. I hope I don't have to do the same for headers that cost me 900+. Has the gasket issue been resolved?

No longer looking. Ended up ordering off MSA. Thanks guys

Nice work. Where did you get the hood?

bumpage

Completely forgot I made this thread and Joe already sold his. If anyone else has a front and/or rear please pm me, email me at jeffreyavila23@hotmail.com. Thanks!

Thanks for the clarification Blake. You can ignore my email and voicemail lol. Nice S14. The R33 front looks good.

Yea but this one was the only one where the entire outside of the runner was welded shut instead of the inside. IDK I'll call Blake and see what's up. Text me when you get yours and lmk if yours is the same.

So I was working from home and these puppies showed up. Glad I was home and didn't miss the shipment. Have a question for you guys. All but one runner on the inside is welded all around. This one runner is only welded shut from the outside. Does everyone have the same thing? I'm tempted to have it welded. Thoughts? Unwelded from inside of the runner All other runners are welded like this: Some more pics for fun:

As title states, looking to purchase a strut bar for my 240z. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

The dips are probably from traction loss on the dynojet and not a result of poor tuning I would say.

The welds on the merge collectors look really sloppy but it's probably the picture. Can't wait to see mine arrive! Or until I steal back my shorties

I know for a fact that dyno dynamics in shoot out mode and dynapacks read about the same. Everyone on all the forums also say that the two read ~10% higher than a mustang dyno. With that said, I wouldn't be surprised to see this car make 470whp on a dynapack with no changes. I would have still expected more out of that motor but as I mentioned before I really think the exhaust is restricting the motor badly. I would really love to see what the car puts down on a dynapack and then with a different exhaust system haha.

Haha yea I agree. I mean it might just be the dyno and the type of correction factors that the tuner used. Usually I see tuners inflate hp numbers though lol. And yea I meant intake manifold not actual intake piping.

The hp does sound pretty low for a cammed ls3 with trick flow heads. What intake/header/exhaust combo do you have. They are probably the culprits. At first I thought I read 128 mph so I thought maybe you didnt spray but then re-read and saw the 138. Nice trap man. Get some slicks and the car will definitely get into the low 10s. What does it weigh?

What size/offset are those wheels? I tried searching but couldn't find the size.

Got any pics of your harness? The pics on their site aren't the greatest.

The tuner took about 30-45 mins to break it in. Ran it through different rpms and different loads

Engine break-in period is a myth. Break that bad boy in on a dyno and you're good to go. I broke my built k20 in on the dyno on first start-up. Did a leakdown a few weeks later and the numbers were perfect.

Does that mean we have our 19!

Yup see it now thanks.

When would be an estimated eta once payment is made? Do we know this information?

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