mutantZ

Sweet! https://uncrate.com/autotype-dewey-nicks-flying-datsun-tee/

I'm ok with a tiny amount of warp- heck my panels are a bit warped already i can tell with that popping flex in the roof. Depending on how many holes are revealed in my hood/hatch I may try a remanufactured panel instead of fixing it. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Dipping a car is a great option if you can get the car there yourself (though I have read some horror stories of seepage from areas that have seam sealer that bubble paint for years). It would just end up costing me too much lost income/time for it to make sense for me. For blasting, it sounds a lot like it depends on where you go. I usually check and see if they did Datsuns before since our cars are so flimsy in terms of bodywork. In my research for a place, I found it funny that our Datsuns would randomly show up in pics mixed in with a TON of porsches. Thanks BringATrailer! 😂

Baking soda. Most of the warpage comes from sand heating up the metal from friction. These guys have done datsuns in the past. The ones to watch out for are the dustless blaster guys, I've seen a lot of videos of media being caked up inside frame rails and panels. To be fair, thats not really the purpose of that kind of blasting.

That was the place I called. It's reasonable for the dip: around 1800-2200. Its the transport that was insane. I just sent it to Calblast in san bernadino, I figured they will get most of the rust and I didn't need to scrape the undercoating off before I sent it.

I originally was going to send my car out for dipping, but the quotes I was getting to get the car there and back was 3x's the cost of the dip! 6k round trip per person with 2 cars minimum required. And this was just going to Oregon!

Thanks guys. I do have a bit of a budget to get this done, I just don't want it to turn into a runaway expense. I'm good doing final assembly, metal patching, and drive train, but bodywork is my kryptonite. I just don't have the patience to do it right. Do you still have the name of the guy or if he still does this? My main goal is to not get ripped off and my car disappearing (happened to me a long time ago when I was doing my first car project).

Looking for an autobody shop in the area that won't fill my car up with 50 cans of bondo. My car is off to get media blasted and I will be doing most of the metal patching on the car. I just need someone to do the final mile of getting the body straight and panels aligned/gapped. I am not looking for concourse quality but I also don't want it to look like it has more waves than the ocean. Anyone have any recommended places? I've called a few porsche shops but porsche people seem to think 30k is a good starting figure for this sort of thing 😄

Thanks for the info! My car is going out for soda blasting, I'll see how bad my hood and hatch are after that to make the call.

Anyone? 😄

Has anyone bought and installed one of these guy's reproduction panels? My hood and hatch are a little rotten, this would save me a lot of time cleaning it up. https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-hood https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/1970-1971-datsun-240z-vented-hatch

Awesome, thanks! Yeah I have the oddball model that's sort of like a 240 but more like a 280. When I got it, it was in the pre "Series 1, Bring a Trailer" era so I didn't know there was much difference.

It's finally time to put my car up on my chicken stand. I just wanted to double check that my rear mounting point would be ok. I've seen 240's using these but my early 260 didn't come with a rear bumper so I wanted to get a 2nd opinion that this spot was strong enough. I am using my old front bumper struts to bolt to the front (car didnt have the rears), its the rear I'm not 100 on. Also, do you guys hop in the car when its up on the rotisserie? There are a few things I need to get to. Thanks!

I dont know if he is on this site, but this is impressive. Looks like a barra killer.

Is this you?

Back from the dead. Here is some info on a stripper on Oregon. http://www.metaldipping.com/california.php#

Has anyone tried this for the undercarriage? About to start scraping but this sound infinitely easier at getting the rubber undercoating off. https://www.facebook.com/SanoBlast/videos/2140022546129643/

Found a review

Anyone have this? The hydraulic lift feature has me intrigued. KW's high end stuff is pretty great.

I see it's a high demand item. Trash bin it is! 😄

What is a complete front to rear (including dash wiring) early 74 260z worth? Not included are the switch gear, tail and head light sections. Fusible link still intact. Fuse box and all the relays seem to be in good knick, I dont have the flasher relays anymore. I didn't cut anything when I removed it.

I know this thread is a little old, but where did you get the rebuild seals for this? I thought it was NLA. I have a Wilwood combo prop valve I was going to use since I thought you couldn't get this anymore. Anyone know if those seals are still available somewhere. I looked here and google'd but never saw anything.

If you are looking for a p90a there is one on ebay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/144492508682?hash=item21a46cb60a:g:lpAAAOSwye1iTzCE

Ive been following your build in instagram, your car is probably 20x's more serious than mine will be used. I have to admit a lot of what im doing is probably cosmetic, you know it *could* be functional though 😂. I will most likely just do the bolt in brace give what you are saying about what those bars tie into. I think I may do a plate on the firewall to spread the load a little better. The real question I have is how much does your cat charge for labor

I was looking at this in terms of a bolt in brace, I prob could gusset it a bit before install. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p66/Front_Strut_Brace.html In terms of a weld in brace, is this what you were talking about? I notice most peoples braces are welded offset from each other on the firewall, is there a reason for that? I may try a panel replacement for the master since theres essentially nothing on my car at the moment, but it would most likely be overkill for my driving. I'm mostly street, but I am a pretty hardcore bench racer 😁

I am welding a brace under the fender. I was wondering if the strut tower brace that ties back to the firewall would be enough to reduce flex there. I could weld in braces tying it back, but I like the idea of it being removeable in the event i want to clean.