mutantZ

Thanks toolman, is the bottom part of the tube a plastic cover? I'm sure most modern sourced columns should be collapsible but I wanted to make sure. I was looking to see if there was a mechanism like this inside.

I have been looking around for a used beverly throatless shear for awhile now, but i came across this. I'm wondering if this tool would be better in general. I'm looking to do some panel repair as well as some general metal fab unrelated to the car. Anyone with experience on this? Sooner or later I'll get that plasma cutter 😁 https://www.kett-tool.com/products/AN2000

Would magnesium wheels be worth the risk in weight drop? I think they are about 1-2 pounds down on aluminum. https://www.vintageeng.com/magnesium-wheels/

Came across this and I was wondering if anyone went this extreme on our car.

Finally getting rid of parts that I bought, then changed my mind on, then replaced with something similar. 🙄 Price does not include shipping. All these parts (except the axles) were mounted but have zero mileage on them so here goes: 1. Z-therapy rebuilt SU's. SOLD 2. E-brake bracket, spot calipers, and cable for Arizona Zcar wilwood rear brakes from first WOZA group buy. Including new Wilwood prop valve. $350 Backet was trimmed so you don't need to pull the hub to get them on/off. Picture just for ref of it mounted, only items listed are for sale. 3. Arizona Z Car rear caliper bracket $100 Lovingly modded by JohnC 😄 4. Techno Toy Tuning Bump Spacers SOLD These were never mounted 5. Stock 300zx CV axle shafts SOLD 2. 3. 4.

Great write up! Does that new steering shaft have a collapsible column? I can't really tell from the pictures. I was on the fence about getting this for that reason.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll check out the vent tubes. I'm about to put my car up on a rotisserie so I'll be able to look around the frame rails too. I followed your build for awhile, what part of Oahu are in? I grew up there and my first car was a 510. The salt air there isn't kind to Datsuns!

Next phase after my hardlines will be rewiring my car. Where are people hiding their harness? Are you running it inside the engine bay frame rails? I have a similar drivetrain to this car and I would love for it to be this sano. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/DSC00774.jpg

I'm having the same issue here.

I bet the VR isn't the cheapest motor to rebuild. I still prefer the sound of a smaller displacement OHC motor, but it's hard to argue against the bang for the buck the LS gives.

pm sent

These days, a VR38 is looking like a pretty good option compared to a RB build prices. http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/10/dimmack-datsun-gtz-build/

I just talked to the guys are Godzilla and they said they get it from Apex so there you go. He said that they were pretty stout and never had any issues with it. I'm putting it behind an RB motor. Not gonna be making crazy power, but you know how the sheetmetal is on our cars 😁

I checked on Hokes/Godzilla's site and didn't see any for sale. Hoke's would've been idea because it connects to the rails and his stuff is always top notch.

I was looking into how to mount a CD009 into the car, Apex makes a mount: https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p27/RB25_%2F_T56_%2F_CD009_Transmission_Mount.html I was wondering if this would be better or worse than welding some tabs where the stock mounts are and fabricating up a bracket (aside from cost). More of a rigidity question as the apex kit just bolts to the floor pan and not the rails. Thoughts?

People are crazy. I think BAT is a major reason why parts are hard to come by these days.

Some deep pockets out there it seems 😄

I have an early 74 260 and am converting my tank over to support FI. I am going to be running some sort of surge tank, most likely Radium. My tank is similar to this, if not the exact same one: Right now I was planning on using the stock pickup line from the tank connected to a carter/280zx/carb pump as my feeder pump, then having a new return port brazed to the top of the tank (mainly so I can keep my vapor lines intact). I'm sending my tank out for cleaning anyway. I'm replacing all my hard lines under the car so anything from the surge tank forward will be fine. Just wondering if I will have any fuel starvation issues using the stock pickup point to feed my surge tank. This is mostly a streetcar but I do intend on putting some track (circuit) time on it. Thanks for any info!

Old thread. I just came across this and it looks period correct! If I were keeping the L i would seriously consider this. https://www.edelbrock.com/adjustable-universal-efi-sump-fuel-kit-67gph-35-90-psi-36031.html

Thanks rossman, I usually never use crow's foot wrenches so that was a big help!

Thanks guys, they were a class 8.8. Now the big question is if my crowsfoot will hang on to make torque spec!

I know this an old thread but I finally am getting around to installing everything 😁 What torque spec did you guys use for the bolts for your bracket? I was trying to find the torque for the drum backing plate but it didn't look like it was listed in the FSM.

Posted a bad character. Anyway, this is very sano

I just posted a title that had an icon in it and I think it corrupted the link. Its under body and paint "280z black" with a heart after it. I copied it from the youtube link and didnt realize it showed up in the title. Please remove, my bad.

As the title states. Very sano.