Afshin

I just posted a "how to" for the swap in the turbo section as promised

Adapting a 1984 300zx turbo/Z31 MAF and ECU to a 1983 280ZXT harness: Disclaimer: First, electrical shorts can burn out your EFI and/or cause a car fire. I have no interest in anyone doing this and don’t know if it will work for you or not. I have no formal training and am only sharing what I did for myself. There is no guarantee nor should any inference whatsoever be made that anything posted below is correct or safe. Purchased parts: 1984 Z31 turbo ECU, MAF, any 84-89 300zx crank angle sensor/chopper wheel (the wheel has a top and bottom, do not reverse or car won’t idle properly) and MAF and ECU connectors with several inches of wire attached. Also need wiring diagrams of both cars. Nomenclature: Mass air flow sensor = MAF Air flow meter = AFM Fuel pump relay = FPR z = from 280ZXT zx = from Z31 / 300 ZX Example: zx 30 y/b = # 30 wire/pin which is colored y/b (yellow with black line) on the 300 ZX system Also, I crimped every cut wire to connectors so I could plug and unplug all the changes. CONNECTING THE MAF: Cut the wires to the AFM a few inches back from the clip Take clip and wire from MAF then: 1) Connect MAF Position A/wire 30 y/g to 30 y/b wire from z harness 2) Connect MAF Position B/wire 31 b to 31 y/r wire from z harness 3) Connect MAF Position C/wire black to body ground 4) Connect MAF Position D/wire 26 b to 26 b wire from z harness 5) Connect MAF Position E/wire 27/35 b/w to any ignition activated + powered wire (pin 27 and 35 are + ignition wires on the same circuit, they are b/w (black with white strip) and can be tapped into from either b/w wire going to the 2 V.C.M solenoids that are located under the AFM bracket 6) Connect MAF Position F/wire 12 r/w (for cleaning cycle) to 33 y/l wire from z harness CONNECTING THE Z31 ECU to the Z HARNESS: There are a few of the ECU connector pins that are different. I got an ECU connector clip from the junkyard and then cut it open and took out three metal pins with several inches of wire to it so I could plug them into the empty connector slots of the z harness. 1) Insert new pin into slot 12 of ECU connector then cut wire 33 y/l before it goes into ECU connector and attach to new pin #12. So 12 pin from the Z31 ECU thru wire 33 y/l will be connected to the 12 r/w wire on the MAF (marked as F). Now the ECU will be able to go into auto clean mode and keep the NAF filament clean. 2) Insert new pin into slot 34 of ECU connector then connect it to a new wire going to the + coil terminal 3) Insert new pin into slot 3 of ECU connector then connect to a new wire going to the – terminal of your coil. The car seems to run OK without this step, but I still wired it since it was done on the 300zx. I have a MSD and the car is doing well with it CONNECTING THE FPR TO THE Z31 ECU: This way if the car stalls out, the fuel pump should shut off as it’s supposed to. Now on the 280zx the FPR is always grounded and does not get turned on until the ECU thru pin 16 l/r (blue wire with red line) sends a + signal. On the 300zx it is reversed, the + is on whenever the ignition is on, and the ECU thru the fuel pump modulator sends the – signal to activate the FPR. Hence, I needed to rewire the + and – signal used to turn the FPR on. 1) Black wire (- source used to turn on relay) wire cut right before FPR, connect to new wire and take to pin 108 on the ECU connector 2) 16 l/r ( + source for turning on relay), wire cut right before the ECU connector end and connected to + ignition source (I tapped into the b/w wire going to my 280zxt fuel pump modulator which sits above the ECU). Now the ECU controls the – power that switches the FPR on thru the ECU pin 108, and the 16 l/r wire is ignition + to the FPR. Now I have no explanation for this part, but according to the book, pin 20 from the Z31 ecu should activate the FPR, which then loops back thru the FPR to pin 108. This did not work for me. However, it worked perfect when I connected the new wire going to pin 108. Again I don’t know why pin 108 is working for this and pin 20 did not, but it sure is working well on my car. Also I disconnected the knock sensor and did not switch any of the injector wire. Lastly, to run the air regulator, it was controlled thru pin 108 on the z set up (which control the FPR in the z31 set up) as opposed to pin 16 on the Z31 set up. So I connected the 16 pin/wire coming out of the ECU connector to the 108 z harness wire (black which goes to the air regulator) and now the Z31 ECU will control the air regulator from ECU pin 16 thru the 108 wire. (While ECU pin 108 now controls the FPR) I hope this helps others map out there own swaps (there are many ways to do this). It would be most useful if others who did this could add in their tips, cautions and related experience reguarding this swap such as Z31 maps/ chip burning, adaptations for 370cc injectors, data on actual HP/torque gain and timing/tuning for the set up…..

Sweet. I can't believe how cheap the sensors are getting. One of these along with a g-tech comp. and you pretty much have unlimited dyno time

I was driving a 6 spd manual 94 TT for 4 months. The car was incredibly fast, once you hit 4000 rpm and the second turbo was up to full speed the car would launch violently into the horizon with only the fear of loosing one's license to get you to slow down. It just had amazing top end performance and certainly no trouble spinning the tire. Off course despite it's massive weight (IMO the only negative on the beast), it tracked like it was on rails and could fly thru the twisties. It would take a whole lot of modded turbo Z to keep with a mostly stock TT supra. And if the supra is modded, then you would need a skyline, Viper or 911 turbo to keep up with one with a competent driver in it. Interestingly, After 2 months I was driving the turbo Z more often. Less speed, but raw and more fun (it's fun to slide the rear on the Z, not so on the big supra). Off course I'm biased toward Zs, but I 'm also a supra fan and used to own a modded 1990 turbo supra for years. Now if I could add a TT supra or skyline R34 to my driveway again and decide each day whether to drive the old raw sports car or the new techno beast/speed machine I could skip my morning coffee 8)

Gorgeous graph. You should make a custom frame for it 8) Unfortunately for me, it seems like the Yoga master will kick the sumo wrestler's @ss

Thanks for the info Jon, I had not thought about the change in toe and to set it in (I was thinking about neutral toe). Both wheels were set out with the old bushings, no wonder the rear was off. I think I may try -1.5 to 2 in the front and -1 camber in rear with the toe slightly in as you suggested. Do you know if the rear toe being slightly in would effect straight line stability in any noticeable way ?

Hi, IMO moving to larger injectors and modifying the EFI should be the last thing to do on the list. The stock EFI is good for 270-300 hp, specially if your stock system, i.e. fuel pump, injectors... are all functioning properly. So first put in the new fuel pump, perhaps new adjustable fuel pressure regulator (turning up the pressure will allow for a little more fuel delivery), make absolutely sure that all ground and connectors (engine and ecu) are clean clean clean (if not already done), new vaccum hoses... Also, do you already have a good exhaust system and high flow catalytic? There is no need whatsoever for a electronic boost controller, all it is is a very nice toy (I still want one off course) and even while they sound a lot better than manual controllers, in objective test, many performed worse and some performed just a little better. The manual one cost 10-$100. many nice one can be bought for $50.0 (do search, do not get the ones that bleed the air, get a ball and spring/grainger type). So $549.0 saved. Then put in the T3/T4, intercooler, larger throttle body (i.e., 240sx unit. Also, you should enlarge/grind the intake opening behind the throttle body port while your head is being rebuild so it will be match the larger throttle body, better to do it when the manifold is off so the metal filings don't get into the engine) and turn up the boost even more At this point the car will be so fast that unless your suspension is in real good shape (new bushings...) you will have much more engine than suspension (and even brakes). Only at this point would I recommend that you start looking into larger injectors and so on. You will also have a much better idea on which way to go by then.

I finally pulled off my rear crossmember and control arms and put in new poly bushings and a camber/caster adjustment kit. I also have adjustable front camber poly bushings. The car has Eibach progressive's and tokico blues, 225/45/17 kumho's and a cusco strut bar. My plan is to take the car to open track events every few months and want the suspension to be set up mostly for "twisties" and so on as opposed to 1/4 mile runs.. Until now it had -1.0 front and -0.1 rear camber, the front felt fine, but the car suffered from a pretty steady turn in oversteer (my rear toe was also slightly off) and would oversteer prematurely Does anyone have any recommendation on initial front and rear camber setting? (I was thinking about -1.0 in rear) All opinions are welcomed

I keep seeing OBX boost gauge that look very similar to the autometers but are priced at about $32.00 Does anyone know if they are any good or know of another reasonably cheap and accurate gauge ?

Hi Dave Sorry about all the babbling, needed to have a laugh during my lunch break. On a more serious note, by when do you need the stats? I just pulled the rear crossmemeber, control arms... of my car off for a full redo of my bushings to get my car ready for an open track day at Thunderhill in mid April. If it's not passed your deadline, I can foresee taking my car for a 1/4 mile run before the end of April. The car is fully restored and very clean in and out so it should make for reasonable photos..

Thanks for the valuable info Bernadd. So according to your statement if I were to use larger injectors I would have to bypass some air around the AMS or modify it in a crafty manner such as SleeperZ did and only then could use one of the piggy back systems to fine tune it. I could not just use 370cc injectors and lean out the mixture with the piggy back system which would essentially lowers the voltage from the AMS to the ECU below the threshold for the Z31 unit and send it into limp mode I wonder if we could get sleeper to modify more of these AMS, or even better, find out were he parks his car at night Have you tried using larger injectors with an external air bypass ? Any idea or educated guess as to what size/diameter tube to use or initially try for a bypass to allow for 370 cc injectors ?

Tim 240Z wrote: I don't know man, those sound like fighting words Or perhaps I should have gotten a 240Z with a chasis as flexible as a yoga master, aerodynamics of a brick, ability to lift off at 60mph, recirculation of exhaust fumes into cabin as standard feature, ability to rust before your eyes after washing the car, need for instructional video for passenger on how to get seat belt on and oh yeah, non vented rotors and rear drums (obviously not meant for hard driving)

All of these dampers/insulators performance are measured by their ability to dampen vibration. The unit is called Acoustic Loss Factor (ALF) which is the same as Damping loss factor (DLF). the range is from 0 to 1 with 1 being the best. regular dynamat ALF is about 0.14, dynamat extreem is about 0.4. Brown bread is 0.39, B-quiet is about 0.20 and the stuff sold at McMaster is rated at .1 and .13. So the best two materials are dynamat extreem and brown bread. . Now on price: Dynamat extreem is way overpriced and hence out (about $5 per square foot) Brown Bread is about $2.35 per square foot (I used 70 feet for my car) The Mc Master product which is similar to the regular dynamat (ALF of only .13) is $2.50 per square foot or $1.20 for the one rated even loer at 0.10 ALF/DLF. Would not get any of these. B-quiet with ALF of 0.20 is $1.40 per square foot SO when looking at best effectivness of the material and price per square foot, Brown bread is the best for high quality dampning B-quiet is best priced for budget application, not as effective as brown bread, but still a little better than regular dynamat and priced very cheaply. The site I mentioned earlier in this post sells all 3.

Nice article Mat73GNZ

fly327 wrote Thanks buddy, since I'm one of the zx's on his side of town that he is refering too I have actually only seen one other to date. I know I'm biased, by the wheel is such a perfect match for the the style (they look gorgeous on the car). Too many Pansports (however, very nice not to have adaptors). I don't see the appeal with the TD's (white wheels on an orange car?)

I just adapted the Z31 ecu/ams to my car and have also been looking into the different piggy back systems, but don't have any pratical experience with them as of yet and don't know how well they do with the AFM set ups since all the good stuff I heard about them related to cars with newer EFi and AMS. From what I can gather the gredy e-manage is far superior to the HKS and apexi units and can be had for $250 new on ebay. It would be nice to get feedback from anyone who actually used the e-manage on a Z or Zx I had just posted this for someone else's question: 3 popular piggy back main air-fuel controllers are the Apexi S-AFC, the HKS S-AFR, and the greddy e-manage. They all can change the airflow signal from the MAF sensor, and hence adjust fuel delivery. However the e-manage does much more, it allows for larger injector programing (you program a baseline larger injector with the laptop and then can fine tune the mixture at different rpm's manually on the dyno...)or AMS setting, adjustement of ignition timing, 3D mapping, datalogging and pretty much most of what a standalone does. Many of these functions will require a laptop, but since you are still using your original ECU and are not MAP based, it requires very little tunning and you maintain original functions such as AC, idle control , emisions.... Here is a site with some info: http://www.boostsolutionsinc.net/technical-AFCcomp.htm This was their conclusion: Choose Greddy e-manage: If you do not care about using a laptop once in a while, and you want full air, fuel, and ignition control, with 3D maps, just like a standalone. With basic datalogging capabilities. Also great for you if you are planning on a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. Monitors the injector duty cycle as well. Choose Apexi S-AFC: If you like playing with many displays, and like the big electronics screen, or want the show stuff for you car, the S-AFC is for you. Choose HKS AFR: If you do not care that the HKS unit looks simple, and that you really will need the BOV correction function, along with the increased throttle response. Also, the HKS gives you more control over the curve. But you do not have the 2 maps, the knock display, and the other cool stuff from Apexi. The HKS is great for tuning though. The best price of all, as well.

Hi acfitz, Looking at your profile/interest section I can tell than you have impeccable taste. Welcome to the board.

3 popular piggy back main air-fuel controllers are the Apexi S-AFC, the HKS S-AFR, and the greddy e-manage. They all can change the airflow signal from the MAF sensor, and hence adjust fuel delivery. However the e-manage does much more, it allows for larger injector or AMS setting, adjustement of ignition timing, 3D mapping, datalogging and pretty much most of what a standalone does. Many of these functions will require a laptop, but since you are still using your original ECU and are not MAP based, it requires very little tunning and you maintain original functions such as AC, idle control , emisions.... The system sells for only $250 on ebay new, which is much cheaper than a SDS at $1000.oo. Also you would maintain your direct ignition system which would cost even more with the SDS (I'm not saying that it is better than a full standalone like SDS, just much much cheaper with many of the same key important functions) Here is a site with some info: http://www.boostsolutionsinc.net/technical-AFCcomp.htm This was their conclusion: Choose Greddy e-manage: If you do not care about using a laptop once in a while, and you want full air, fuel, and ignition control, with 3D maps, just like a standalone. With basic datalogging capabilities. Also great for you if you are planning on a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. Monitors the injector duty cycle as well. Choose Apexi S-AFC: If you like playing with many displays, and like the big electronics screen, or want the show stuff for you car, the S-AFC is for you. Choose HKS AFR: If you do not care that the HKS unit looks simple, and that you really will need the BOV correction function, along with the increased throttle response. Also, the HKS gives you more control over the curve. But you do not have the 2 maps, the knock display, and the other cool stuff from Apexi. The HKS is great for tuning though. The best price of all, as well.

My favorite is brown bread. Much cheaper than dynamat (and a little better). A little more money than FatMat but it is much thicker (50%) than fatmat and as you know thicker = more insulation. Also there have been review of brown bread that show it works very well. I don't know if there have been head to head review of fatmat against dynamat and brown bread ? I got mine from this site http://www.b-quiet.com/

In general EIC does work and has been used succesfully in many turbo application and aftermarket kits (specially in the 80's). I think having it before the throttle body in high velocity conditions should improve the atomization of the fuel. However, this will also increase the chance for the fuel to deposit on the intake sooner causing droplets.. I guess this is pretty much like a carburator/single port EFI set up. Considering the amount of aftermarket fuel systems, from stand alones to cheaper piggy back systems (which cost about the same a a EIC system) it makes more sense to me to get the piggy back system and use larger injectors to provide more even and accurate fuel delivery). Also, the piggy back system will allow fine tunning of the fuel delivery thru out the power band. Jason, do you have a specific application in mind, l28et, V8 turbo.. ?

Funny I certainly like the idea of migrating towards hawaii 8)

OK Dave, I will have the write up posted within the next 2 weeks and you can compare it to what you had mapped out before you splice any of the wires (I did make a few small mistakes before getting all of it to work properly (eg, fuel pump control).

I would definitely not put on the stock turbo first. As others said, it does not affect the tunning or running in any way (except for better breathing on top and better performance at high boost). Just keep the boost at stock, until all is running well. Years ago I did a 280zxt swap into a 280Z. At first i used the sock 280Z injection system (all but the fuel pump) and to my surprize, the car ran pretty decent. I then swapped to the 280ZXT injectors, but the car ran too rich. So I went back to stock injectors and car ran well again. Obviously, I did not push the car too much with the 280Z FI and avoided sustained boost and high RPMs (however, the car never detonated, even when pushed a little). I then switched to the full 280zxt FI system and turned up the boost like any good little addict.

Hello gentlemen Well I finally went for the Z31 set up and have it running It's quite nice, certainly idles better and feels like the power band is slightly broader. Feels a little faster, but not by much (not that it should, maybe 10-15 hp). The throttle response is also improved and it revs nicer. I used a 84 turbo ECU and modified the stock 280zxt wiring. I also have the computer controlling the fuel pump, AMS cleaning cycle and all emission devices (except the inactive EGR system). James, I have a work deadline this week. I will try to do a full clear "how to" write up in the next week or so.

I don't think that your fuel pressure being a few PSI high should cause the car to rich enough for you to notice. If the car is really running rich, it's most likely something else. Try spraying some cleaner on your ecu connectors and on the head temp sensor unit. ALso check vaccum lines afterwards. I assume timing is correct, if not it can cause the car to run rich.