turbogrill

Hi, I can use a 240mm clutch and flywheel combo on a 2 seater 280zx right? Stock is 225 but as long as BOTH the flywheel and clutch are the same size it should work?

Curious, why this hatred against V6? I think there is a Camry manual that works, but probably still much less common than nissan manual. Thanks

Hi, Has anyone done any Toyota V6 swaps? I couldn't find anything on this forum. The 2GR-FE Seems like a great engine that exist everywhere. Whats the catch? I know that MR2 commonly do 2GR swaps.

Are you saying that a porting a head only marginally adds power for a na street build? From what I have heard my 300deg 500lift cam really benefits from a matching port.

I am having Lone wolf do the port for me. He shared some flow numbers. I think he can modify the head a little based on my needs. This being my first build I want to keep things a little simple. If high lift adds a lot of complexity then I am fine to compromise on that.

Hi, What grind are you getting the L-490 or a custom? I talked to someone named Richard at Isky, he wasn't very interested in selling anything else but a catalog grind.

Hi, I am trying to find a cam to for my new engine, I am having trouble getting some feedback on the Comp 292S cam. It's an interesting cam because it differs a little from the Isky/MSA/Delta cams in that it has a relative low lift, high duration and wide LSA. Have only found 2 posts that mentions this cam! (common in Domestic engines but rare in datsuns) Maybe it's rare because it sucks, either way curious if someone knows anything about it. Comp magnus 292S: duration adv: 292 Duration 0.05": 246 Lift: 0.48 LSA: 110 Overlap: 72 So pretty low overlap (wide LSA), long duration @ 0.05", low lift.

I think you need to start removing fuses and start to isolate the problem. If you notice that you don't see the problem when fuse X is removed then that is a good start.

That was a lie! We have the 3-2, not sure what I was thinking. Sorry about that.

Man have I spent time fighting the the electric systems. Good news it's probably solvable! Just takes a lot of time and staring at the schematic! So are you saying that you have a short that causes your alternator to fry (outputs >14v) and a causes a fusable link to burn? And this happens when you turn on certain things? 1. Is it the alt/bat fusable link that goes? 2. You are not leaking coolant or something into the alternator? Bad mounts can cause the fan to hit the alternator (have happen to me, twice). 3. If you disconnect the alternator, do you still see the voltage drop if you insert the key or turn on something? You could try the following: 1. Remove most of the fuses 2. turn stuff on/off and check for the drop 3. If no drop then but in another fuse and goto 2 until you get the drop. I think you need to isolate the circuts more. There is a ALOT of wiring to all kinds of stuff. You could try and remove all the fuses (not the fusable links) but the correct fuses.

Hi, I am currently trying to pick a cam to my mild race build. Daunting task! Anyhow, what is the practical implications of running a high lift cam? Let's assume that the flow/fuel delivery/compression is all good. Are these valid concerns: 1. Higher lift is more prone to vavle floating. When messing up a downshift (5->2), engines cams with lifts over >.500" has a higher of pistons hitting the valves? 2. High lift cams >~.530 requires longer valves? Any other issues that higher lift cams might cause from a practical/engine builder perspective? Thanks

Yes we have it. It fits Same people on this forum said it's to restrictive where the collectors join. To me there is no other alternative for the same price, the Kameri is like 10 times more. It has to be 10000 times better than stock manifold!

Digging up an old thread. I bought a strut brace from them, it was very good. They where very easy to deal with and everything showed up on time. I was about to buy some more stuff from them but this thread concerns me! Anyone know if they changed? This thread is 10 years old....

That is a very very very good point! thanks

Hi, I am doing MS for my 1980 280zx NA, I am planning to do timing just for the fun off it. Wouldn't it be possible to put a teeth trigger wheel where the fan is? And then put the hall sensor where the power steering idle pulley is (or whatever that is)? I don't have the power steering connected but there is still some bracket there. This would be much easier than the turbo dizzy or to try and fit something at the crank. I guess a downside is that if the belt snaps the engine will stop working. And also if the belt slips.

I can't use the Koni shocks since they are adjustable (my racing series doesn't allow it). T3 offered to use B8 Bilstein but they will still charge the same.

Hi, T3 charge $925 for a set of front coil overs that bolts right in. They also sell a DIY kit (looks like GC kit) for $219. I can get Bilsteins for ~$250, so that means I could build coil overs for ~$500 (GC Kit + shocks). How would these differ from the T3 ones? Is the $400 difference what they charge for labour? Or do I get anything "extra" for buying the T3 coil overs?

Hi, My racing league just updated the rules to be very favorable for a 1980 280zx NA engine swap (Chumpcar). If I do a 250hp engine swap I still have plenty of room for suspension upgrades and not get any penalites. So I can almost double my horsepower (135 to 250hp). Not sure if'ts rear or crank, but it's good either way. (They have a complicated formula that is exponential, I can't do 270hp without a ton of penalty laps. I guess they have a target PWR in mind). Anyhow, there is a little catch: - Engine swaps include stock long block, stock exhaust manifolds, stock motor mounts, starter, ECU and wiring. Any custom adapters required to fit engine are included, but not optional items (i.e. headers). - Maximum swap cost is $1500 (Engine and adapters). My concern is the price, good thing is that I am allowed to rebuild the engine. So If I spend $1500 on a "broken" engine I could still rebuild it with stock components and be within the rules. Possible? Comments? (The engine can't be 1980 L28, maybe a 1981+ can work)....

What would these be??

No real experience only googling but I think what you are missing on your list is a hotter cam. Maybe only do MS fuel, that should be easy. Doing timing is a little more complicated since you need to add some position sensor. Again, haven't done any of this just research for my own build.

A new cage is like $4000, maybe half that if reusing what we have (if possible). I think it would be cheaper to just add tubing under the chassis to strengthen it a bit and also cut out the holes and weld in sheet metal. Will see what my welder says.

Thank you all for your comments. Problem with a different shell is that I already have a roll cage in it. Moving that roll cage into an another car is going to be a pain!

Hi, My 280zx is pretty rusty and I race it so I should fix this. Initially I was going to rebuild the frame rails but after some research it turns out that the rocker panels and the pillars are the important structures. I am looking for some inspiration on how to reinforce the chassi. I assume many of you have done this! Pics would be great! This needs to be fixed:

This is for a 280zx: - BIG front swaybar (ST) - Ghetto cut springs - KYB Shocks - T3 Tension rods - MSA Front alignment kit (not very impressed) - Poly bushings everywhere - E46 M3 subframe bushings - Racetep strut brace (awesome) If I would do it again I would skip cut springs and MSA camber kits. Instead I would go for coil over kit and T3 control arms.

If you don't care about looks then save your self some time and buy a new gauge and sender. Lots of affordable ones.