turbogrill

I already have the Megasquirt stuff figured out but want to get injectors before I install it. So you can't use the stock fuel rail with those injectors I assume?

Good info! Turns out I can't use the Lonewolf or a big tb, my racing series would give me penalty. I can still port the stock manifold and replace with different injectors. So what's the best approach? Turbo or the Supra? I like to have something common! 200hp is fine. I will do megasquirt.

I need bigger than stock injectors for my ~200hp build. Stock turbo would be fine but if I get a lonewolf intake I might as well change to something more modern and common. Anysuggestions? Supra?

Thanks!Got it now. What do people do with fuel rail and aftermarket rails. Keep stock or fab something?

Hi, Lone wolf intakes has either 11mm or 14mm o-ring injectors. What is the stock size on a L28E?? Or is it neither?

Hi, I don't have time or skill to do the GC conversion, but I would happy to pay someone to do it. T3 offers the kit ready for the front but not the back. What is the cost of labour to do the GC coil over conversion kit on a 280zx? Both front and rear. I am in Austin if someone knows someone that has done it before and wants to make some money. Thanks

Did anything come out of this?

Seems like we need someone to try it out.

Why is this better than a lonewolf intake? Seems to be a strange bend on your intake, not straight as the other performance intakes.

Hi It seems like some people like to refer to cams using a something like "it's a big 76 degree cam". What is 76? Is it overlap? One of the valve events related to piston position? It's obviously not duration. Seems like a vague metric for me.

I am currently doing a microsquirt with dizzy less wasted spark setup for my l28 race car (track only). Very affordable but still very good. Comes with a diy harness that makes it easy. Things you need: - TPS from 240sx (for Ms fuel) - trigger wheel (diyautotune.com) - hall sensor (diyautotune.com) - fab a mount from sensor (where AC used to be) The last step is the hardest, haven't figured out that yet. I am using stock intake but you can buy better EFI intakes from lonewolfperformance.com Good thing with race cars is that it simplifies the EFI a lot!

Hi, There is a rather uncommon cam that I am curious if people know where it comes from. The cam has .300 duration and .510 lift. I can't find who is selling it! I have heard about it twice, curious to where it comes from. Thanks

Hi No turbo, endurance racing. There seems to be a lot of conflicting information. Very confusing..

Hi, First sorry for the confusing topic, my fingers slipped and I can't seem to change it. There is plenty of information about porting the head but not a lot about the intake manifold. The "How to modify your Nissan OHC" book doesn't mention much either. (There are some good posts on this forum) What do I do about the stock intake manifold for a mild race engine? 3500 - 7000 RPM. (490 lift, 290 duration cam (ISKY 490), ported head). For my RPM range should I port match or just keep as is? Car is fuel injected 280zx with 1980 N47 head and block. Thanks

You are wrong from a F1 perspective but from a normal people racing perspective you are absolutely right. Specially when it comes to endurance racing. Doesn't matter if you have a fast car if you need to spend 20min to fix something, over 8hours racing 20minutes is very hard to catch up on. I thought about the exact same thing, a very low boost turbo on a good tuned engine. Sounds good to me. After reaching 200rwhp I wouldn't spend anymore money on engine, then brakes and suspension gets more important. (Already have a ton of suspension upgrades but it can be better). Even after reaching >160hp I think driving lessons is probably where we should spend our money... The typical car we need to beat is a E36 325. They have 190hp and similar weight as 280zx and usually good suspension. With the current Chumpcar racing rules a E36 325 can only do ECU, exhaust after header, polybushings and maybe springs. With a 280zx there is a LOT of room for improvements (you can build real race car I think).

That is some great advice! Thanks

Thanks! That is some good input. My plan was to go turbo but I got scared from peoples stories about everything exploding all the time....

Hi, I do endurance racing with my 280zx, ususally it's 8 hours of nonstop racing. It but a lot of wear on the car, 1 hour of racing causes equal wear to 1 year of modest street driving (my own non scientific statement). Anyway, our L28E has taken A LOT punishment and is holding up surprisingly well. But it's a little low on power (planning a L28E build with more oomph). (We are not expert drivers or expert mechanics, that probably doesn't help). A lot of endurance racing teams stay away from turbos because it's just more shit that can break (and everything can break) 1. Is the L28ET considered as reliable as the L28E? 2.Is there any known weaknesses about the L28ET? 3. Could being at constant high RPM and at constant high temp cause any issues for the L28ET? I have spoken to a team that had a L28ET, took them a long time to get the car reliable and would not recommend it. Curious what the experts over here as to say! Also, it needs to be reliable on a budget. We can't afford to rebuild the engine after 8hours of racing....

I have a Honda Odyssey and a 280zx Chumpcar.....hmmmm Do you think my wife would noticed If I swapped engines?

It's a filthy job, took me 4 hours to get the tank OK. Gas and rust all over my house. . Doing it again I would gladly pay someone $100.

I got them as well. Great product. A buddy of ours broke two of the stock ones on a bumpy race track. Not sure if he had poly bushings or not but the T3 tension rods are a must if you are serious about racing. Also give you caster alignment. However I would just get the LCA kit from T3. The MSA camber adjusters are not the best.

I noticed that it's pretty hard to buy only 2 rear S13 coilovers, they often come in a kit of 4.

Hi, I got all those books and I got a clear understanding of what I want, just didn't want to spam you with that. Just curious of what is the smartest way to get a good cylinder head and all the related parts. What i want: 3000-7000 RPM 200+ hp Doesn't have to be streetable or quiet Should last several hours of 100% torture What will get me there: ~290 duration, ~0.500 lift cam 10:1 compression Good flowing head and exhaust Details: Microsquirt fuel only (maybe timing if I got the time) Isky 490L or Schneider 290f cam Lonewolf ported N47 or P79 head (P79 need to be shaved and shimmed towers) Lonewolf ported intake F54 block with flat top pistons MSA Header 2.25" exhaust (or maybe 2") with magnaflow ACT hot street clutch Stuff that should be new: New Rings Honed cylinder (don't think overbore is needed, will see) New valve seals New rockers New springs New rod and main bearings New waterpump New oilpump New gaskets I think that is it! (My 280zx has porterfield race pads, cut springs, KYB shocks, MSA camber kit, T3 tension rods, beefy swaybar front, 4 point strut tower brace. 225/50/15 G force rivals S on 8.5". 6 point roll cage. I can take Miatas in the corners but I loose the mustangs in the straights. that needs to change!)

Hi, I am currently building a hot street engine. I have a F54 block and need a cylinder head and all the other gizmos that comes with it except cam and the other stuff that makes sense to buy new when doing a rebuild (springs, rockers). What makes the most sense? 1. Should I buy a head only on ebay/facebook/forums and then buy all the parts (sprocket, lash pads, rockers, springs, valve seats and so on) from MSA/Isky/ebay? 2. Try and find a 280zx on a junkyard and get all the parts from that car? This is the first time I am building an engine so I don't fully understand what I need. thanks

Hmm... And the clutch kit doesn't come with this right? http://www.advancedclutch.com/nx1-hdg6 Looking at the picture I can't see any throw out bearing.