turbogrill

Darn, you can only buy them in sets of 8. I need 12! The 300zx springs might be a good alternative.

Awesome thanks!

Hmm....I get that it shouldn't bind at full lift. But not sure what you mean with correct installed height? do you mean that it should be installed so to give good seat pressure and not coil bind at full lift? appreciate the help, got all the books but there is a few pieces that aren't clear to me.

Hi, I am trying to understand how the valve and camshaft drive train works. I understand that the lash pad needs to be the correct height to get a good wipe pattern. Lash pad tickness needs to be checked if: - Cam shape is different - Valve position is changed (valve jobs) - New rockers? If I install a taller and/or stiffer spring the valve should sit in the same position right? So the lash pad thickness shouldn't have to change? Thanks

Awesome thanks! I was searching for springs the other day, thank you for the link. I doubled checked and it's the stock springs, not sure if they are new or not but I wouldn't think so.

This is some great advice. I bought it thinking I could just put it on and drive but I now release that I probably need to inspect things a little. My biggest concern is now the coolant port, I don't know how it's supposed to look like. It looks like something cracked and fell off.

Hi, EDIT: I want to make clear that I don't think the seller screwed me, bad title. I can't change it. Bought a new head with cam installed online. Does this head need a lot of work? 1. Cam is not center in the joiurnals, how can this happen? Lucky the top of the cam doesn't hit the cam tower journals Seller planned to remove it but change his mind. 2. On some rockers only one side of the rocker meets the lashpad area. Maybe this is due to the above, or could the entire thing be bent? 3. There seems to be something broken in the coolant inlet.? 4. Not sure why the towers would have marks like this Any comments? EDIT,

Lesson learned is to have some other indicator, maybe oil temp. Not sure. Is the CHTS (below sparkplugs) measuring water or actual metal temp?

Awesome! Thanks! I was a bit concerned about valve to piston clearance given the high lift. However comparing it to other cams (Isky 490/Schneider 290F) it seems to open/close the valves much earlier/later. I guess the the most critical is the time the valves open/close when piston is close to TDC, not the actual lift. It also seems to be a "slow opening" cam since the difference between advertised and @0.05 lift is so large.

Rebello suggest using stock INNER but aftermarket outer for their ~.480 cams. At least that is what their website says. Seems to be confusion about this. I am buying a head with this cam already mounted, the guy has been running it for a while but with stock springs.

Completely empty, the water temp was normal since there was no water. Also racing so 100% load on the engine. Driver went into the pit because the oil pressure lamp wnet crazy. I will now install an oil temp

Do you use stock springs? Or would the M445 require different springs? Seems like any lift over .460 and over ~7000 RPM requires new springs.

Sounds awesome. I am getting it and a ported N47 head soon. Initially I will put it on my N47 block, so compression will be in the 8:1. I guess it will be OK for that? Will also do MS.. (I have a F54 flattop waiting to be built...)

How do you mount the sensor? Custom dabbed bracket?

....delete me....

Hi Thank you for that. I am hopefully getting the SHADBOLT M455, I think that is the same one as what you have. Planning on using MS as well. Noticed you are running MS timming, what do you have for timing related sensor? Turbo dizzy or crank trigger?

Hi, Most camshaft has a pretty similar ratio between advertised duration and @0.05". However Colt Cams differs: Colt (C542): Duration Adv: 280 Duration @0.050: 224 Isky / Schneider: Duration adv: 280 Duration @0.050: ~232 Almost 10 degrees difference!!!! Just looking at the advertised duration the Colt cam looks aggressive, but the 0.050" tells a different story. Could probably even use stock EFI with it. Is the C542 just a minor upgrade from stock? Or is there more to it.

It's hard to explain. It pulls a little to one side. Imagine how braking on uneven ice would be but it stops fast. Rear also have a tendency to lock up. It's most noticable when braking hard from fast. So maybe high revs 4th or 3th down to 2th. Top notch is not how I would describe the car The roll cage surely stiffens everything up. But there is still a lot of rust but it's mostly in the floor pan and those floor rails that goes front to back. Subframe is solid.All bushings are good. Dampers are crappy KYB.

Hi, My 280zx race car doesn't brake very well. It stops quickly but not in a controllable manner. I have to baby the brakes a little otherwise it upsets the cars balance, I have to fight the car a little while braking. This costs time since I have to spend a little more time braking before each corner. I have stockish engine. Brake specs: - Stock 280zx brake system - Race pads (either Porterfield R4-E or Carbotech RP2. XP8 in the back) - Motul RB600 - Stock brake hoses - New stock rotors Suspension and chassi: - 6point welded in roll cage with door bars. - Front 4 point strutbar - Cut eibach springs and KYB excel-g - 200 treadwear tires - A little to much rust on the chassi I am not sure if it's a brake or chassis issue. Could it be to much grip in the pads in relation ship to the tires? Could it be that the chassi is flexing to much? It's pretty rusty (should have picked a different car). Could it be that my suspension sucks? Could it simply be that the 280zx brakes aren't up for the task? Thanks

What is the difference in accuracy between the 123 and megasquirt with CAS+tooth wheel? What ignition module do you use?

During an endurance race we lost all the coolant without knowing it. The driver pulled in when the oil pressure lamp went bananas. Was oil squirting from where the the oil filter sits and the dipstick was so hot it burned a hole in a cloth. It seemed like the oil was boiling. I thought this engine was done and accounted for. Fixed the coolant leakage, drained the oil and let it cool down. We sent it back out to the track and the engine was fine, maybe a some loss of power. But the engine lasted at least for the reminder of 8hours of racing. Is this normal for engines or is the L28 extra tough? I would think something like this would be the death for an engine. (It occurred to me that having only water temp is pretty useless unless you have a water pressure sensor or an oil temp sensor).

Ever cleaned the tank? My tank was TERRIBLE, seems like this is common. More rust than you can think of. Big pieces of rust in the pump

If this would be EFI then sounds like fuel, not sure about carbs.

You are right I should have deleted my first post and edited the second. But that also causes confusion if someone is reading the post. Now that we sorted out that maybe it's time to focus on something important. Seems like there are two paths: - Palnet rail + Supra injectors - Stock rail with L28ET or Ford SVO injectors

Nope, reading the replies. Otherwise what's the point. The last two was a bit of a butt post (was away and two different browsers bla bla).