turbogrill

I think that: 7M-GTE ( 23250-42010) is 440cc and low imp. 1JZ-GTE (23209-49015) is high imp 2JZ-GTE(23209-49025) is high imp Call http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/ to be sure. Best place to buy from. I got a set of high imp injectors for my MS build, less components. But maybe you need more CC than me.

I ended up getting valves from DatsunSprit, not the expensive DSI but the other ones he sells. Not sure what brand but I trust that it's good quality, I think he uses the same for his less crazy builds.

harness (almost every wire in the car) + relays + ECU: 25lbs

What cam is that btw?

It's probably mucj much better than stock but I would think that head would perform best at a crazy 600 lift or something. But again, no expert. I wouldn't worry too much. What compression do you get?

Seems like it's been ported for high lift aggressive cam. The flow numbers at low lifts looks small compared to high lift. Good if you have a high lift cam, bad if you have mild lift cam. But I am no expert.

Hi, Any suggestion what exhaust valves to get for a mild enduro race engine? Max RPM 6500-7000, 200hp - 250hp It would be a stock replacement for a N47 head. Would cheapest from Zcardepot do it?

Hi, I got my pallnet fuel rail yesterday. Looks great. I also have a set of green Supra injectors I got from Motorman (he gave me the correct seals, great guy). I have a few questions about the fuel rail. It doesn't look right to me but I know that there is a lot of people using it, so it's probably me! 1. The bolt that holds the bracket on the fuel rail seems a little long? The bracket on the fuel rail is snug but it's not super tight. I could move the mounting bracket on the fuel rail side to side but not upp and down. 2. The bolts that mounts the fuel rail to intake seems to be the wrong threads. Could he have sent me the wrong bolts? (Another unlikely explanation could be that it my intake was tapped differently, but it looks stock to me). 3. With the supra injectors there is nothing else holding the injectors besides the fuel rail? (And the o-ring in the intake). Stock injectors are mounted to manifold using screws, but for some other injectors it's just pressed down from the fuel rail? Looking at pictures from other peoples fuel rails I see both setups. Many thanks

Don't want to hijack the thread, but your right! There are a few more things you mentioned with the sensors and drivers. Also USB and maybe something else. I understated things. I had to buy the MAP sensor and build a container for it, some extra cables. Same goes for drivers, maybe MS3 is an easier and more stable path. The only downside with MS3 is the connector and size! Microsquirt is somewhat water proof and has an AMP seal connector. However I do believe Microsquirt is also machine soldered? That was the biggest thing for me. Always dyno for best results. But you can get going and get decent performance in your garage. Basic tuning with Megasquirt/Tunerstudio is a pleasure!! Took me a few hours to go from not starting and running better than stock EFI (for a stock engine). And I am not a good tuner in anyway. To get the last 10% performance requires some skills. Also get a wideband. It might be hard to get something that works in both -30F and +120F, in Holland (under sea level) and at Mount Everest. someone else can chime in on that. I just made it work for Texas weather.

I would look into Microsquirt, it's a MS2 based durable version, intended for motorcycles and open cars. I couldn't justify doing MS3, that extra ~400 can be spend else where. Only thing you can do with MS3 over MS2 is: - Sequential injection (point less on our engines) - Not wasted spark (Wasted spark is fune unless mega turbo or other crazyness) - SD card logging. (Just have your laptop in your car for the first months or so) Please let me know if I am wrong!!!

1. Not sure but I woulnd't race past 6500 RPMs unless you have forged pistons, after market ignition and a really good balanced bottom end. Maybe it's ok for redlight racing but not track duty. 2. Stock turbo injectors might be but from what I understand the stock non turbo will fall flat before 200hp. I finished my megasquirt fuel only installation a few weeks a go. From someone that doesn't know anything about electronics or cars it might be a daunting task. But if you have worked with car electronics before it shoudn't be to bad. Time consuming for sure.

Would this engine pass emissions? The Porsche 996 (M96) engine makes similar power at same rpm. But its a 3.4. (and expensive)

Are these crank or wheel?

Wow that is a very nice engine bay! How??? Mine looks like a nuclear bomb exploded in a crow nest.

Hi, I need a 240sx TPS on my megasquirt setup. Should I get a S13 or S14 TPS? I am not sure but it seems like there are different ones? (Could just be same part numbers but same part?) Thanks

I already have the short block assembled. Next step would be timing chain and oil pump stuff. I guess I have to wait...

Hi, I want to assemble my newly built engine but my head is in the shop and will not e back for a long time. So is it possible to put everything together and do the head last? According to the rebuild book I need the head before I put on everything else.

Hi, I am building an enduro race car with a ~200hp NA engine. Do I need something else than stock NA pump? Engine is a fresh build. Seems like most people have issues with oil pressure at idle, I will spending most of the time in 4000-6000. From what I understand the AT turbo pump has more pressure at idle but at high RPM it's about the same.

So would a bigger cam get more power at those RPM? He now gets ~220 @6500, with a bigger cam would he get more at that RPM? Or less at 6500 but more at say 7500 RPM?

Exactly what have you done to your head? I am building a very similar engine as you but with MS and a less aggressive cam.

Did you monitor the AFR? Off topic, did you ship the engine to Sweden?

270nm at 5000rpm, 2800cc, and 0.9 VE gives a BSFC of 0.43 I think that is good numbers? What is your AFR during torque max?

Good point, I will replace my oil pressure light with a strong blinking led. What about water pressure? What sensor and where?

Hi, Several people in this forum has used 300zx outer valve springs in their L28 engines. It gives you a slightly stiffer spring than stock. I ordered a pair of 300zx (84-89) outer springs but their diameter is much much smaller than the L28 outer springs. I double checked with MSA and they are confident they sent me the correct stuff. What did I do wrong here? Schnieder/JWT recommends the same springs for VG30E as L28 so it should work.

The power force seems to be reasonable in price and people on this forum seems to have success with them. Can I used slap them on? Or is there balancing involved? Hopefully I can reuse my current Hal sensor bracket and put a trigger wheel behind it.