datsunlover

I put the front on stands just behind the t/c rod brackets, on the 'flats' of the front unibody. The rear, until I put in tmy subframe conectors, I jacked on the diff and placed the tires on wood... which was siting on cinder blocks. On the 280 the rear 'subframe' comes down just in front of the rear tires, (in line with the frame rails, but not tied too.. strange) and there is a flat spot good for jack stands, assuming it's not rotten like mine was. After I fixed that area, I supported the car there.

I want a Miata now too. I saw one at a car show about 2 weeks ago, and aside from nice rims and a really cool chrome roll hoop behind the seats, I thought.. meh.. whatever. Then I looked under the hood; JacksonRacing S/C all tucked away in there! I asked the guy what he thought of it, and he said 'well.. it's a 2200 pound car, and the 16 valve loved to rev to begin with.. and with the charger she's about 180 horse now.. " Cool. BUT: I also think the RX7 deserves a spot on that list.. right under the 240z.

How much wear (milage) is on that VW? I've seen lots of VW's well over 400k and still running the original gear box....They seam to get 'notchy' with milage from what I've seen though. Could be just slop/wear in the shift linkage bars/bushings. My 240sx 5 gear (in the 280z) does the same in first and reverse. Hard to get in, sometimes I have to drag the clutch out slightly and then it pops in. Sometimes, it's no trouble at all. I know my trans has about 260k on it, and the shifter is a little sloppy, and I assume it's just worn (not allowing it to push the shift rod quite enough) I'd have a look at the linkages and whatnot, if you can get to them, and the shifter itself before worying about a trans re-build..

The guy who re-build my motor was telling me he (and a number of his racing boddys) ussually runs 3/4 quart low for drag racing. He actually did an experiment once and a 'test and tune day' . He build an 88 Chrysler sudance, well stripped basicaly.. and ran a slightly worked 2.2 turbo engine. I think he said his first two runs were almost identical. For the third run, he dropped some oil out and shaved off 3 tenths! He said he didn't even believe it himself, so he checked that evrything else was set up the same, and made another run; 4th pass was nearly identical to the 3rd! I agree though, for auto-x or road racing, it could be awefull...

Well, I'm not keen on the hood scoop either, but I thought it was something different, and therefore worthy of posting here.. Just one of the things I've come across lately, searching the net doing research for my V8 RX7 project. I assume the guy got the 4.6 cheep/had it laying around.. I wouldn't go looking for one. (I'm doing a 350/700r4) Hopefully I won't need such a gigantic hood scoop on mine..

v8 rx7 Looks tight in there, but I'll bet it moves pretty good..

Cool... I'd never thought of that before.. Nice man!

Don't know what the offset is, but I can say for sure that the patern on a 2nd gen RX7 is the same as datsun Z. I have two Z 6 spoke 14"s on the front of my 86 rx right now.

Damn it... cleaned the throttle body good, and the wiring conections/ect.. STILL idles at 1800 or so. If I shut it down (turn key off and pull out) and re-start, it'll idle fine still.. until I touch the throttle. Any other ideas guys?

Dood.. thats cool. I love VW's, always wanted to build an old rabbit. As for an engine, why not a VR6 or 1.8T? Personally, I like the 5 star rims it HAS on it.

Ahh.. pieceing it together are you? Again, IMHO, you'd be further ahead to find a runing driving 'donor' car, something cheep, (under $500 say) but you get evrything you need, and you can be sure that it works (cause it did in the donor car) Either way you go, good luck man.

Heck.. sometimes you can find an even better deal, if you're willing/able to do a motor pull yourself. IE; find a whole car/truck with a 350/700r4 dirt cheep. I'm building a V8 RX7 right now, and found an older Caprice (ex cop car) with a good 350 and 4 speed, but the body has had it and the rear shocks had ripped off the frame. $160 for the car, and 2 days of my time. Now I have my drivetrain.

I'd bring the throttle body in and plop it ont he counter. "So.. what is THIS thing then? Wait... never mind, just give me the gasket for it." I lothe morons working at parts stores...

Friggin awesome... loved that...

Damn... sorry dude. I'm gona go get my z apraised this week.. all these 'z wreck' posts are starting to freak me out!

Except me! My boss had a 'talk' with the guys today (small machine shop, me and 3 other guys) one by one. The other guys didn't look happy coming out.. I went in to the office last and he says 'well, we're talking to evryone so I figured I'd talk to you too.. although nothing will change as far as you're concerned.' <---thats what I looked like... I guess he's fed up with things taking too long, stuf getting messed up, ect. The older guy (55 I think) who does some designing and runs the CNC, is history. Too much wasting time, complaining, wandering around. Same deal with the younger (18 I believe) kid; bye bye. He's always late, doesn't clean up after himself, and has a problem listening and doing as he's told. He was actually getting on my nerves this week (not listening, cranking the radio up, ect) and it's not tha I didn't like the kid, but if I'm in charge of getting something done, I get crap when it's messed up..not him. The other guy, a friend of mine (who I put a word in for to get him this job), is on a 'day to day' basis.. IE; there isn't enough work right now to have him in evry day, but he IS a good worker, so he's just 'temporarily laid off' I guess. I asked my boss if I should be looking for another place to work, but he says he needs me, and will keep me buisy (doing whatever, if need be) as I've been with him for almost 3 years, and I can do pretty much anything that's required. We do custom fixturing, tooling, ect, and I can handle most of it on my own if I have to..service calls and the like. I can't help but get a little freaked out though..I mean, the boss says 50% of it was that he can't afford the other guys.. but things getting messed up this week and seeing ceartian people wandering or messing things up pushed it too far.. Now it's just him and me working.. oh boy..

Well I worked late today, and by the time I got home I was in no mood to work on the thing... It'll have to wait till tomorrow I guess. I figure I should get used to playing with FI/electrical, as I'm getting close to having my 'other' car ready to wire up. (tbi 350 into 86 RX7.. just have to finish mounts) I'll see how it goes..

Heh.. good trucks eh! (yes, I said EH ) I'll get some tb cleaner/something, and try that tomorrow.. sounds reasonable to me. I really need to pay some more attention to this truck, it's been good to me and I think this is another subtle warning that all is not well.. but it's still at the point where it's fixable. (got the brake shakes and driveshaft vibrations goin on..) Thanks man. Matt G

Would it go back as far as 87? I have (in my posesion) two rx7's, and one is 'questionable' if you know what I mean.. One I bought from a friend, good ownership and all, the other is in much better shape, but I can't find the owner (I think she left the coutry..) and the guy I bought the car from never changed the ownership or anything..

I have a 93 Nissan king cab, V6 5 speed. I knew something was going to happen soon, as I rolled over 280k last week. I thought maybe someone would have an idea or two... It's really not a big issue right now, but it's kind of anoying.. and with the price of gas these days, it's only going to hurt more as time goes on. Problem; Starts fine, idles ok, but as soon as I take off or even give a slight push on the throttle, it jumps up and 'sticks' at about 1800rpm. Drives ok and all, but when I pull up to a red light or something it sits there and revs. I clicked the A/C on and off, reved it quick (blip), even shut it down momentarily but nothing changes it. If I shut it down for a minit or more, it'll start fine and will idle at it's normal 800-900.. although it seams a little more rough than it used to (not really bad, but noticable) I'm gona do the plugs/wires this weekend I think, as it needs it bad, but I'm sure it wont solve this problem.. any ideas?

Actually, his back tires might be going forward.. veeeery bad.. might be causing the guage's to mis read...

Might I ask how old is this 'friend' of yours? (If this was one of my friends, I would not be so kind.. ) I've heard someone say something similar.. I laughed in his face and made sure everyone else in the parking lot knew what he was trying to say.

The SU carbs are really simple. I didn't know jack about them, and last year me and a friend spent about 2 hours taking my just acuired carbs apart, cleaning and reassembling. Not hard at all.. I bolted them on, and they fired the car almost righ away too!

Well, I can see now that I DON"T have VATS.. whew.. Anyway, I think I have a good idea now what I'll have to do.. There is a little issue of which alternator to use.. I was thinking of buuilding a bracket for the SBC to use the mazda alternator, as the wiring is already there.. but I'd have to rig a serpintine belt pully onto it.. The chevy alternator shouldn't be too hard to wire up though, and has the proper pully to start with.. The thing I notice about the chevy harness, is that EVRYTHING is tied to evrything else. The starter wiring, alternator and all the FI sensors go into one big wiring loom, and at the ECU, two square plugs go in, but another comes out of the harness (before ecu) and goes under the dash to the fuse panel. Then ANOTHER mess from the engine bay side of the fuse panel, into the same harness/loom. God almighty I want to slap a GM enginer.. I'm gona have a look at it tonight and see if I can't pull all the 'useless to me' wires out of the harness.. hopefully, I'll be left with enough to run the engine... (which isn't even in place yet.. have to get it in and build some mounts..) Thanks for the replys so far guys, you rock.

Thats what I'd look at first.. and maybe the bearing too.