datsunlover

I'm not sure if this aplies to the turbo dizzys, but the 'black box' on the side (ignition module) can go bad and cause this problem on N/A cars.. Eventually it'll get worse, and just die suddenly.. sometimes for a few minits, or maybe hours. OR.. could just be loose/corroded conections.

Figured I'd bring this post back rather than start a new one. We got the thing saftey checked and road legal. Then the fun started; Cut the stock shifter and welded on the top part of a (heh heh..) Datsun 4 speed shifter. My brother's a big guy, and we needed to have the shifter go towards the passenger side, then back up. I built a little "T" handel for it from 1" cold rolled and it works great. Then we used a passenger seat from a 90's Geo Storm, and built a custom front bracket. (piece of angle iron, with a curved piece of flat bar.. I'll get some pics) The rear was simple, and needed a bolt welded on one side (To the rail, easy to remove at a later date) and the seat belt clip bolt ended up almost perfectly in line with the other side of the seat. Little bracket welded to the seat, and it's in. My brother is pretty excited.. we went out today just around the backroads/subdivision and I taught him how to drive standard.. He did pretty good to! Really funny to see a 400 pound 6 foot 6 guy in a bug!

Good ones! I got a few... People asking if it's a Porsche is almost a weekly event. People say "Datsun? didn't they make little squareish ****box cars?" You look at newer cars and think "Hey.. they STOLE that idea/layout/body line from the Z cars!" You hesitate to add up all the bils/recipts for fear of knowing exactly how MUCH you have sunk into this 30 year old heap..

Awesome! Seams like there's some more 'pull' to be had in first, but I guess if they're spining, they'll just spin more with more revs.. I'll bet if you can find more traction, you could get a better shift to 2nd too.. probly pull a reall low 12.. Actually, without fouled plugs/valve seal problems, it should go even better..maybe mid-high 11's?! Love the sound too.. what are you runing for an exhast?

Could be your tps needs adjustmant/replacing... if it's on the fritz or worn, it'll 'confuse' the ECU and cause problems.. Also check all wiring conections in the engine bay, and the rubber boots and hoses for the AFM to to throttle body, turbo, ect. (cracks/leaks will cause major problems) Might wana get a manual so you can run the checks on the AFM as well.. Hope this helps.

I'm for the center force d/f.. I had a Jeep J10 p/u a few years ago, 6" of lift, 33" tires, mild 360 and I was HARD on that thing. One time I actually got it a few feet off the ground... Got stuck in the same spot 3 times, so I backed up about 30 feet and gave er' hell.. Droped the clutch at about 3000 rpm and the thing just launched! In 2 wheel, I could launch the same and SPIN the rear tires.. (Ever heard 33x12.5's spin? Really cool sound..) Probly similar power, maybe a little more torque than your 305.. although the truck was so loud, I didn't notice any noises from the clutch..

Well, Actually, I only had one spare left on my shelf.. and I traded it to a member here for a clutch a few months back! I may come into another 280zx soon.. (kid I know bought one, but doesn't know his arse from a hole in the ground.. seriously, he's an idiot..ok that's harsh... 'uneducated' is better I supose..) It's ussualy one of those parts I pull almost imediatly when I pick up zx's.

I'm tellin ya, EVERYthing will need a fuel pump at least once.. My old 93 king cab finaly poped one at 230K but it wasnt even the pump itself; It was the WIRING on top of the tank! A wire corroded off, floped over on top of another and shorted it out. Had the same problem with my 85 200sx years ago, and that was the only time it left me stranded (In my driveway mind you, and only for a day till I figured it out.) Luky for me, it didnd short anything.. just 'fell off' and needed to be re-attached. So.. ahem.. There is a reason I'm a Nissan guy.. they keep going. My current 4x4 king cab (also 93) needed a fuel line this past winter, and JUST poped it's first brake line a few weeks ago, but it's 12+ years old with 280K on it... to be expected considerig I live in northern Canada. FWIW my brother drives a 96 Astro van that needed a fuel pump ($500) at 140K. His old astro van (89) also needed a fuel pump around 165K. Also $500 plus tow bill. My girlfriends 2002 Grand Am has 70K.. the fuel guage is irratic and the pump is getting noisy.. Good thing it's a lease due to be returned in october..

I think I've seen the intake he's talking about (bolts to the intakes where the SU's did), but alas.. I can not see how it could be called 'equal length runners' as shown by the pic there..

I see about 4 spare 280zx dizzys w/moduls on my shelf as spares for that kind of money! Oh yah, Jmort; I'm gona be JB welding mine soon.. strangest thing.. looks like the stator is starting to tilt in the housing and hit the reluctor.. wonder if that's part of my problem..

I've noticed quite a few posts asking about this, and thought maybe I could help out.. possibly avoid more of the same question(s) being asked again.. (Hint... perhaps a sticky is needed? ) I did a carb swap onto my 75 280z, which was originaly an FI car. (72 round top SU's) Very easy to do, and I'm quite happy with it. Assuming you get carbs/intake, this should work for any carb swap (Webber, mikuni,ect) although vacum is an issue with triples sometimes I believe... Basically, just rip out (well, pull nicely I gues.. depends how angry you are with the FI not working..) all the sensors, FI wiring harnes (it's not spliced into the rest of the cars electrical for the most part..couple common grounds, a clip at the battery..) and take off the intake manifold. *note* Some heads don't have the threaded holes for the SU carb manifolds, so you have three options; Possibly get another head, Drill and tap them where you need them, or do what I did last year, and build 'finger clamps' from 3/16" flat bar and use the FI holes to hold the top. (I can explain that in more detail if neccesary...) The bottom will get held the same as the FI one, by the stock thick washers. For cars with 02 sensors, I think you could just leave it in the manifold and simply disconect it... heck, it's be nice if mine had one, just for tuning purposes.. Once the carbs/intake are on, you'll need to hook up proper fuel line. SU's are nice to work with here, as stock 240z fuel feed/return lines bolt right on. Next, replace the FI fuel pump (30psi AHHH TOO MUCH!!) with a low presure pump. (3-5 psi) I got a generic aftermarket pump intended for full size chev p/u trucks w/carb'd V8's.. mid 80's or so. I believe there is a Holly pump that bolts in close to stock.. the one I'm using took a little 'rigging' to fit/work. I'd get a new fuel filter as well, the big FI filter would probly work, but I figured a $5 clear plastic one was cheaper to begin with, and would probly work better.. Ignition; I couldn't see a way to make the stock dizzy work with the carbs, so I did some searching.. On older z's, a 280zx distributor is a 'drop in' deal, and works great (what I'm using) and if the 'black box' dies, it's a simple wiring job to hook up an MSD box to it. I'm fuzzy on weather or not the 280zx's ECU controls or gets signals from the dizzy, but to prevent possible issues I assume it's possible to just re-wire it in a zx just like I have wired it in my 280z. (one conection from box to + coil, other to - coil. ) Anyone who has info to add, please do so. Hope this is helpfull..

That just sucks... Although, yah I would have been moving the speed of light trying to find the nearest garden hose/bucket/whatever.. I had a fire start inside my V8 rx7 once (INSIDE the garage, with my head under the dash and nobody else around.) and you've never seen someone jump out from under there and disconect the battry so fast! (was behind the back seat) I'm suprised how I was able to shove the car out into the driveway by myself, run to the side and get the hose, then get back in time to catch it.. Got lucky I guess..

That link doesn't work for me, but FWIW, I run without the rear bar and like it in my 75 280z. For a short time I had a 240z rear bar on and before it caused problems, it worked.. but I didn't like it.. The rear would get 'hard' and want to step out if I got on the throttle a lot out of a turn.. more wheel spin from a standing launch too.. didn't 'squat' very well..

Heh.. we gota stop meeting like this Nismo.. Well, I'm gona keep refering to it as arcaic.. Sure I'm using carbs 4 years older than the STOCK 75 FI system, BUT I cleaned them up and made them work almost as good as new for a very little amount of money and time. (price out all the required sensors and what not required to make the FI like new.. ) Besides.. these carbs were 'tried and tested' by the early 70's, while the nissan FI was still in it's infancy so to speak.. oh and I set my carbs ONCE, and drive all summer with NO messing around with them every few days/weeks. As for MPG, if thats a big deal for you, I'd say buy a honda civic or something.. Have you done a lot of tuning on the old FI system? From all I've learned it's a little hard to work with, and doesn't respond that well to engine modifications... Hell, even trouble shooting is a PITA. Lets see here.. AFM with flaping obstrucion, a throttle valve switch; two positon.. not really too acurate... (although, the zx went to a position sensor, better.) No O2 sensor, a thermotime switch that tells the ecu how hot the engine is, and then decides what to do with igniton and fuel.. AND.. it's all 30+ years old and getting worn out.. YECH!!!! Sorry, I'm not into playing with that crap. Simple answer to the question asked; Pick up SU's w/manifold, keep zx dizzy, get a low presure fuel pump. Good to go.

Sure, lets just let anarchy run wild! The V8 guys can bash stock Z's in their V8 forums, the L6/sr/supra guys can bash V8's in their 6cyl forums, and this site can turn into another zcar.com kinda place.. Lots of ppl with their opinions, but no real info or technical advice. A lot of posts in this thread have good info and real world expiriance, which is a good thing.. I don't think it's wasting too much bandwidth. I'm sorry if I have participated in the 'hijacking' of this thread, but I felt I had to comment.. As far as I'm concerned, the addition of the 'what about a 4bbl?' question to this thread is acceptable.. but the thing has gone round and round (a quick search should reveal the recent/infamous 4bbl manifold thread..) and more comments about 'american carbs on jap cars' or 'I wouldn't do...' are not what is needed. If you would never use a 4bbl carb, or an american V8 in your Z, so be it. Why do you have to write a post just to say that? Just my .02$ Ok, I'm done, back to the REAL topic... uh.. triple carbs or not?

Ok.. first off, I wouldn't go head to head with Superdan about "what should be allowed HERE" even IF it is in the 6cyl forum... For what it's worth, I'm only sticking with my SUs (as oposed to going with triples or a 4bbl) for now because I'm going to go to a V8 next... probly won't be for a few years, hence the reason I just rebuilt the L28; I already had it, and it'll do for now. Your "dont mix jap w/ domestic, just doesnt look right." comment is probly one of the stupidest things I've ever seen posted on this site... No mater WHAT forum it's posted in.. I don't care if that offends you either becasue if it DOES, it only proves the point that perhaps you ARE on the wrong site.

Heh.. I could start my old 280zx with well.. whatever.. The MAIL key would work for crying out loud! My current 280z is about the same.. I used a flat screwdriver the other day... Oh, and I once locked the keys in my old 200sx (1985) and got in with an old datsun key which I'm pretty sure was the spare from my first 280zx..

Um.. Is that the old electromotove team race car?

Heh.. Methinks you are on the wrong web site then..

I run a zx distrubutor, and it's great. Very simple install, and I just unhook the vac-advance and run more intitial advance. It works all on it's own. Problem is, the 'little black box' on the side is .. touchy, and sometimes they just up and die. Out of nowhere, the car will stall. 5 mins later, it may fire up and run great.. Here is where the MSD box comes in; Take off that black box, and run the MSD wires to the zx pickup coil, and you're all set. (I have some instructions I got off the net if you need them) Currently, I'm runing just the stock zx unit, but I'm having some (I think)ignition problems, so I'm going to hook up my MSD box soon. Have it waiting on a shelf, prepared for the day the black box dies on me. I got my distributor for about $50, and the msd box w/soft rev for $100 used. It's been hooked up to verify good working order (on two cars), but I didn't want to have it instaled till I worked out other issues with the car. Just put a new motor in, had some problems, wanted to run everything else just as it was last year, as I know it ran then.

Damn...

Looking great man! You still thinking she'll be out driving this fall? I've got most of the bugs worked out of mine (just have to install the front KYB's and toy brakes) and with the 5 gear, I'm thinking about some long distance drives maybe late in the summer/early fall... Would be cool if we could to meet up, I'd love to check out your creation. Keep up the good work!

HA!! That was good... too bad there were only 3 laps left to go!

Wonder how long the R200 will hold up behind that engine/tranny combo.. I bet it grenades the first month..