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Looking for the wiring diagram for the L6 optical distributor. Four wires: r,b,g,w. Setting up a Haltech trigger and can't find any info on this distributor. Thanks, Matt

For the record: This is not the engne in the above write up. This engine has been running for a lot of years (like 8 or so...), but it's similar. It uses an N1 block, stock 33 crank, N1 oil pump, 272 cams, stock bore Arias pistons, and Pauter billet rods. Half chamber modification. The engine in the above write up, I sold to another guy with a GT-R, and I'll be tuning it in about a week using the Haltech R32 Platinum Pro. The Haltech Platimum management is incredible, so I bought in and became a dealer since we last talked. I'll shoot some video of that car when we get it trimmed out. Then I'll get to writing up the race head. Cheers, Matt

Hi there, I know it's been a long time. I've been really, really busy. Still intend to do the write up on the race head, but thought you'd like a small video of the finished product. Only 1.3 bar in this shot. A little wheel spin in second, but pretty solid after that. At 1.6 she's still getting wicked awd wheel spin in third, and at 1.9, you've got to have all your players in the game to keep it straight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1yFXlJYtI0 Cheers, Matt

There are companies that sell manifolds for carbs. It's all just bolt on. Carb fuel pump and regulator. Done. XSPower/SSAC sells a RB25 header. Would need to be modified to fit in the Z, but it's been done quite a bit.

Boost control can be set any way you want. progressive by rpm, etc. Data logging. Wide band auto-tune, and on and on and on. It's also one of the easier systems I've worked with, and why I became a dealer. The new PS systems are unbelievable in what they can do.

If that fails, you can pull the #1 coil and make a jumper coil wire between the plug and coil to put the pick up on. Ground the coil.

It also requires an $800 custom drive shaft. There is no slip yoke for the back of the 26 trans. It's a flange, so a slip joint with bellows needs to be built into the shaft.

The angle the car is sitting at isn't importnat at this point. The angle of the engine needs to be the same as the angle of the differential. Put the angle gauge on the dirve shaft companion flange for the differential Then put it on the front of the crank pulley. These need to be the same or you will always have drivetrain vibration.

I had a Z brought to me for a 26 swap that already had a 200 installed with the AZ billet bar. The pinion angle was about 10 degrees. There are numerous rear covers for the 200 with the studs in different locations. Use the wrong one and you'll get the wrong angle. I use 2-3 degrees for most RB engine swaps.

Are you running an RB26 head? If so, the plenum has no vacuum. There is an air distribution block under the plenum (with the idle air screw) that has two 6mm ports in it. That or you can use the tiny port coming out of the back of the balance tube on top of the throttles.

Sounds like the MAP sensor isn't plugged into a vacuum source? Is it plugged into the surge tank, or after the throttles? For initial start up you shouldn't be using the idle air control. Sounds like it's bypassing too much air.

There's a 10mm deep pipe that goes into the head. It's a tight fit with the hole and uses regular silicone sealant. I don't have any experience with E85, as we don't have it in Japan. However, with gasoline up to 600 I don't even mess with the quench pads. Over that and you may take just the intake side. Mid 6's with E85 and I seriously doubt you'd need to take anything out. Alcohol loves compression and boost. As far as the exact amount of power and efficiency loss with removing the pads, I don't have an exact #, but let's say it's considerable. I tell people that removing both pads is a max power drag mod. The pads do more than increase compression and contribute to inert effects. They add to chamber turbulance and increase burn efficiency. It's a trade off. You give up efficiency and response to be able to make the big numbers. But if you don't really need to remove them for 600hp, you certainly wouldn't need to remove them with E85. The GT500 engiens I've seen have the intake side removed, but they're not running E85. That could also be done to unshroud the valves and has nothing to do with knock... With Japanese Esso high-octane fuel and good fuel trimming, I can run 35 degrees of advance at WOT without pulling any timing until around 6-7psi. Without the pads I don't start pulling timing until around 10psi. Too-retarded timing makes for very high EGT's and will burn thins up, as well. I'm a big fan of efficiency in street motors, so as a rule, if I have to pull more than 15 degrees or drop below 11.5 AFR, I throw in the towel and look elsewhere like lowering compression or octane improvement.

I've heard the same thing, but have no first-hand experience with the ceramic coatings on the crown. The way I look at it, I've never had a problem, so why should I introduce another potential problem into a critical area? No idea who does the coating for Wiseco, but they're a pretty big company, so they may do it in-house.

Small jewlers screwdriver or something like it. There's a small plastic tab inside the coupler than has to be pushed down.

Wiseco's about all I use these days. Arias was having a hard time getting their act together where rings were concerned. A couple of years ago I bought around 10 sets of Arias pistons for the 26 and a bunch had the wrong rings... They were "kits" in Arias boxes and had the wrong rings. Some had four correct oil rings and two were the radial wall was too deep, some had ring sets that were for 86mm when the pistons were 87mm, and so on... The rings now come in boxes with sealed packages and high QC, but it's too late. You just can't beat the price of Wiseco kit pistons. They've been in the business for a loooong time. Years ago when import pistons were all custom, I was a Wiseco dealer. I stopped using them when they increased the minimum order for custom pistons to 50 from 24!!! I was like, when am I ever going to use 50 of the exact same piston?? Now that they've got their act back together, I'm back to using them but don't order direct. Race Engineering gives me a good discount on parts so I order through them.

We're in the home stretch now. I'm going to skip over the stuff like measuring the rod bearing and piston pin clearances because it's the same as we did back with the main bearings. Same goes for the piston clearance. Measure the bore, measure the piston or pin, the difference is the clearance. With the new rings from Arias in hand, we can set the end gaps. Generally accepted ROT (rule of thumb) is .004 (.1mm) per inch of bore is the minimum gap. This bore is 3.464" (yea, that's 88mm), so the minimum gap would be .014" or .35mm. It's not always good to use the minimum gap. Engines that have high thermal loading like forced induction, nitrous oxide, etc., should use more gap. If you were running a fuel like alcohol, you could close up the gap a little. Don't worry if you accidentally grind a little too much and make the gap too big. You could effectively double the gap and not see a decrease in performance. It'll affect a leak down test, etc., but won't really hurt performance, especially in the rpm range where you're making power. I've seen engines with broken rings that you couldn't even tell something was wrong until they were torn apart. Basically, don't get too hung up on ring gap. Too much=OK. Too little=Very Bad. On ring expander tools: I hate them. First, if you have a deft hand, it stretches/tweaks the ring a lot less when it's twisted on by hand. A ring expander that stretches the ring out enough to completely clear the piston is scary business. I used one once and threw it away. If the ring binds up, just stop and back up. People break rings when installing them in a hurry and using the armstrong method. In 25 years of assembling engines I've broken exactly one ring, and that was about 25 years ago. Second, every pro engine builder I know, including the heavy-hitter mainstream guys, installs the rings by hand. Checking the gap .016". Soldiers, ready for battle. Once again, don't bust my chops about the "dirty" bench. It ain't dirty! An army of one. Arias pistons and Carrillo rods. The Carrillo SPS bolt. The best and strongest rod bolts money can buy. These rod bolts torque to 65 lbs. Normally I use a stretch gauge, but it’s impossible to get in there, so for the RB it gets torqued. All masked up and ready for paint. Here's the almost complete short block. Pistons in, studs in, gasket on. Check that shiny new paint job. A few words on studs. Studs are not necessarily stronger than bolts (ARP are). The main advantage to a stud is that they use a fine thread at the nut end vs. the course thread in the block. This makes for smoother torquing, and allows you to take the fastener closer to the yield point safely. For instance, say a fastener has a yield strength of 200,000 psi. With a course thread, tightening can be erratic from one fastener to the next, so the manufacturer may set the tightening torque to achieve 60% of the fasteners yield to ensure it never goes over. A fine thread like those from ARP is set at 75% of the fasteners yield. That's 120,000 psi vs. 150,000 psi of clamp force. You never tighten a stud in the block more than hand-tight, or just barely snug. There should be zero upward pulling or pushing of the block threads before the top nut is tightened. If a stud like those from Tomei, with an extension to bottom in the bolt bore, is tightened into the block, it pushes up on the area of the block around the stud, creating a high spot. These high spots guarantee that the seal around the cylinder is a weak one. There's nothing wrong with the fastener, per say, but in the wrong hands... The ARP studs have a shoulder machined above the threads as a positive stop. If you were to tighten it, it would only clamp the threads together, but would still pre-stress the block in the area around the fastener. Don't do it. It's much easier to lube the threads before the head is on. Lube 100% of the threads. Do not lube the threads in the block. You don't want those turning. If you use a threadlocker or sealer with studs (only in the block), it needs to be tightened within an hour, or so, before the locker sets up. SR20 studs can not be pre-installed like this. The head can't slip down on the studs and clear the chain guide. Where the power is made. This is a touge engine. The quench (squish) pads stay in place. Much better mid-range power with the pads. This head is pristine. Perfectly flat, with no imperfections, so it's not getting cut. It's a waste to machine things that don't need it. My thought is that you're taking away rebuild-ability. The head installed. Another shot. Here's where people are going to bust my chops... It's info I've been sitting on for about a decade and a half. Well, the cat's out of the bag. I know I've said I never did an extra "oil return" on an RB26, and that's true. But I never said (I don't think) I never added anything for crankcase ventilation to aid oil return through the stock pasages. Semantics... Why do I discourage people from doing this mod? BECAUSE YOU DON'T NEED IT! And, if it's done wrong, you'll end up with more problems than you've solved. Originally, this engine turned around 11,000 rpm, boosted way over 30 pounds, and made hp north of the millennium mark. The new configuration doesn't need it, but because the mod is already done to the pan, the parts are there, etc, it's going on this engine. The following three pictures are of the additional crankcase vent. I first started doing this mod on the 26 in the mid 90's. It's a common mod for high rpm engines, so it was a no-brainer for the RB26. Soon thereafter, the Internet got a hold of it and speculation as to its function ran rampant. "Additional oil drain-back" became the consensus, and consensus became fact. Now it's well known as the additional oil drain back mod. Then it became a fact that all the oil in the engine will pool in the head and the engine will blow if you don't have it done. Really? Let's examine some facts. The RB26 has been lapping the Nurburgring starting years before the R32 came out in 1989. Lap after lap at full-boogie. Since then, the R33 and R34 have been lapping the same track. The N1 GT-R that races in the N1 class doesn't have this mod done. Super Taikyu RB26's don't have this mod done. I can assure you that the RB26 does not have an oil drain back problem that warrants modification to implement an additional one. On Youtube you can find some videos of the Porsche Turbo engines in a cradle that simulate a run of the Nurburgring to test the oil system. Nissan has the same thing. http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fv53RbvgfGc So what's the deal?? Windage and blow-bye in ultra-performance engines. You get an RB26 up in the 10,000rpm neighborhood and lean on it with 2+ kg of boost and you have a nightmare. See, all but one of the oil drains back into the sump on the RB26 are on the left side of the block. When we examine crank windage, that's the side of the engine where the crank counterweights, rods, etc., are moving in a downward direction, essentially "pulling" oil back down out of the head. In the right-rear of the engine, there's another port. This port is on the "pressure" side of the motor, and windage blows up this passage, creating an actual suction on the drain-side of the motor. At high-rpm, high-boost, windage and blow-bye gasses can be so severe, that the single port on the right side isn't adequate. Gasses are moving up all the ports, sometimes at high velocity. This effectively keeps oil from returning to the sump. What the large hose from the sump to the back of the head does is give the blow-bye gasses another path to the head, and allow the oil to return down the normal returns along the left side of the motor. It needs to be above the oil level in the sump, but below the baffle. In a drag motor, if we accelerate forward at 1g, the oil in the sump will stand up at 45 degrees. It'd be neat to hear an explanation of how the oil in the head overcomes the laws of physics and somehow runs forward to the front of the engine. In a circuit/touge motor like this one, oil will indeed return down the hose to the sump because not all of the acceleration is forward. This is the reason it needs to be lower than the baffles in the pan; on that side of the engine, any oil returning will simply be picked up by the crank and added to the hurricane in the crankcase. What we found was that under these extreme conditions, we were pumping a quart of oil out of the breathers and into the overflow in a 400m pass. Not only was it not returning, but the blow-bye gasses were pushing it out of the engine. Additional vent was added, and the problem disappeared. It needs to be said that in engines turning 9,000 rpm and boosting 1.7 bar, engines making north of 750hp, this "problem" has never presented itself. That, and the problems you can create if it's not done properly are the reason I've been so against it in more reasonable engines. An example is if you put the tube below the oil level in the pan, not only are you choking any venting action, you're giving the oil another place to go during acceleration. Like I said above, oil will leave the sump through the hose. Hate away. On 88mm. There's talk on the Internet that it weakens the cylinders too much... I don't know what others have experienced, but I've never had a problem. This engine made BIG power for a long time and had two failures. Dropped a valve both times. I don't recommend going all the way out the first time. I leave the bore stock with a new hone, if I can. Then it's up to 86.5mm, and so on. "Rebuildability" (is that a word?). Next I'll write up the race head and put that on an engine like this one, but with Pauter rods, a new N1 block, and 280* high-lift cams.

Not to discourage you, but 90% of the reasoning for a “swap†is more power and increased reliability. An example would be an RB26 will do 500hp all day long like a stock motor, where the stock L28 would be living on the edge, if it were even possible. Swapping in an RB20 won’t give you any gain over the L28 in simple turbo trim, and possibly can’t match the L28 in full-boogie trim with equal budgets. There’s the cool factor of having an RB, but, and don’t take this the wrong way, serious players will only give you headaches. You’ll be forever defending your reasons for doing the swap. If you can do all your own fab, or know someone who will do it for free, great! If you can’t and don’t, it’s going to cost a grip. When paying someone else, the cost of the engine is small change. L28 has serious cool factor, too. I've got one in here now that's getting seriously worked for a pair of 3071R's. Long live the L.

Did you get it worked out? Something I didn't see before... Your ECU seems to be resetting. This would indicate an inadequate power supply to the ECU or something that's falling off while cranking. Basically, the ECU is powering down and that's probably the reason for the disco from the laptop.

Just a note... I haven't forgoten this thread. My computer crashed and I lost a lot of pictures... In the coming weeks, I'll do the build up on the new race motor going in a long-time friends R34 GT-R. It'll have the full port and chamber mods. I won't really go too much into the bottom end, because it's about the same, but the head is substantially different.

Yes, I'm an SDS "top tuner" dealer. The "M" in MJR is for Motorworx On the white injector coupler that goes into the ECU, RPM switch is pin #3 and knock sensor is pin #10. If you email them and ask for some pins, they'll sell them to you. There's power to be had by using the variable valve timing feature. The only real way to determine the set point is to run the motor on a dyno in both modes. Where the two torque lines cross will be the cross over point. Of course, that's only for WOT.

Knock sensing is built into every E and F ECU, you just have to install the pin and wire. Starter map for RB's I use 15* at idle, advancing linearly to 35* at 3,500 rpm. Then use the Advance/Retard window to add 15* of advance at idle vacuum, tapering off to 5* in the cruising vacuum ranges. Pulling timing depends on what fuel you're using. On Japan-spec pmp hi-oc, the 26 is happy running all 35* of the base map up to around 15psi...

Be careful falling into that trap. James Thagard made a bunch of aluminum pans because people here said they were interested. Then only a few people actually bought them. I ended up buying the the rest of them because he sold them to me cheaper than I could manufacture them for. Basically, he was getting out from underneath the heap. There's a very small market for RB rear sump pans, and established businesses that already make them. Don't spend a lot of time and money "tooling up". Keep the design, manufacture on a one-off basis, charge on a one-off basis.

They're exactly the same cartridge. The difference is the housings and the price. The HKS exhaust housings aren't up to snuff where reliability is concerned. I've seen a ton of cracked and warped housings on the HKS turbos.

Hot and humid like Oki?

Do you have the signal set correctly for "rising" and "falling"? Also, are your settings for hall or reluctor?