cheftrd

110 for the intake. 115 for the exhaust. Dyno tune from there.

This head is going on a friends RB26 that's going into an S15 Silvia. The picture is deceiving: The chamber is not polished, but straight off the mill. The "chamfered cuts" are not cuts at all, but the original humps that have just been machined. They look like cuts, but are actually convex. The purpose is simply to protect the plug threads from carbon. Big intake valves and stock exhaust. Exhaust valves are the single largest contributor to detonation. The factory exhaust valves are sodium-filled inconel. There is nothing better for a turbo engine. Titanium in the intake is always a good choice, but expensive. Lighter weight means less bounce, less harmfull wave action in the intake tract, and more power. Bronze guides transfer heat out of the valve better, gaul less, and are good insurance in an expensive motor. The stuff on the GT500 motors was published in a book that I can't seem to find. The big standout was the chamber, where the intake squish pad was removed and the exhaust was chamfered. Everything else in the head looked stock except for minor porting. It doesn't take much to make 500hp... On a side note, the RB26 does not need larger valves. 1,000+hp motors do well with stock valves, and don't gain much with bigger ones. The major mods are cleaning up the bowl, knife edging the dividers, removing the hump in the exhaust port. High rpm motors will pick up a little by pushing back the intake divider 1cm. I'm not a big fan of flow #'s. Benches are OK (I have one) when used properly, but the #'s are deceiving. RB26's don't have steady-state flow, so I could care less what the steady-state flow #'s are... Larger #'s don't translate to more power. Even Superflow will tell you that the dyno is the ultimate tell-tale.

Finished RB26 chamber. Remember that this mod is for high output engines. It's completely unnecessary about 99% of the time. It's what I call a give-and-take mod. You give something up to be able to push the engine further. If you're engine isn't at the "take" level, all this mod will do is take.

I'll be in Kalamazoo from Sep 17 until the 6th of October. Any RBers want to hook up and have a few beers, shoot the poop, etc, give me a shout.

N1 block is no longer available new from Nissan. 99% of the really big HP RB26's in Japan use the standard block. In the past, the only reason I bought N1 blocks was because they were the same price as the standard one.

L31 carbureted turbo with HKS surge tank. Very similar to the light blue one. Sequential dog box.

I agree. I've seen quite a few RB's take a front shot in an accident (like that one) and have a bent crank snout. Better check it.

You could send it to me. LOL Actually it would probably be chaeaper to buy another one here than pay the two-way shipping... Seriously, if you have the FSM, any good builder could rebuild it. The only time "RB specific" comes into the picture is when doing heavy mods. Even then, you could study up on it and tell them what you want.

That's interesting. I knew they ground the cam to compensate for crank twist, but not the crank itself. I wouldn't think the cam would really have that much torsion in it, but I guess when they go to around 9,000 rpm from idle in tenths of a second... who knows.

You're correct in that none of the cranks in question failed from RPM or "power". They failed from the repeated shock of dropping the hammer at 9,000-10,000 rpm with the drive train locked out, good traction, manual trans behind a tripple or four late clutch. The RB26 crank in incredibly strong and I don't see you failing it in front of an auto. At least not for a very long time. I'm actually a big proponent of stock parts in the Japanese engines (with the exception of pistons). Cranks and engine blocks are waaay under rated. Aren't you guys going to be making an attempt for sevens pretty quick here? That'll be cool to see.

I've personally seen three failures, all three at the rear of the crank between the #6 rod pin and the last main pin, two of which destroyed a lot of the engine. All three were in GT-R's leaving the line at the clutch drop with ATTESA lock-out. Talking with friends over at HKS, they've failed a few during R&D. I've also seen the data sheets showing the difference in deflection and runout between stock and full-counter 4340. Not in a million years would I run a stocker in a 10,000 rpm $20,000 customer engne.

There's a few RB26's making 1,000hp with the stock crank.

I go into a slump sometimes with big swapps too, and I get paid to do it! The task seems daunting and endless when you're always looking at "the big picture". Like sone others said here, concentrate on one thing at a time. Best thing is to get the driveline in and then running. Once that happens and you can take a spin around the neighborhood, you'll be stoked to do the bodywork, etc. Good luck.

The newer Nismo slave cylinders have a larger bore. Up to 13/16 from 3/4. It reduces pedal pressure by 14%, but increases travel required to release the clutch.

There's two ways to make "horsepower", torque and rpm. Torque puts a mean twist (deflection) on the crankshaft. As an example, a top fuel dragster or funny car runs a super heavy-duty billet crank. I've read that crank deflection in these engines is upwards of 20*. That means the front-most cylinder is 20* ahead of the rear-most cylinder at full boogie. It's so severe that the cam is ground with front cylinder valve timing events equally advanced (or the rear retarded, whatever). Anyway, if you were making that kind of power with torque, meaning you're doing it with extreme cylinder pressure, crank deflection in the stock crank would be serious. Even if it's strong enough to transfer the power without breaking, there are serious power gains to be had if your valve timing events are all in sync with each piston, given their position. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and put a 100 hp per 1,000 hp number on it based loosely on the differences I've seen between stock and billet crank RB26's. In addition to deflection, there's wobble to deal with. Those kinds of forces can make the crank wobble on it's axis. Think of it as a little larger stroke as the rod pin is pushed out and down with each power pulse. In effect, the carnk would look like a wavy line. The more the crank wobbles on it's axis, the more the snout whips around, causing timing belt whip, throwing off valve timing events, ignition timing, creating very bad harmonics, etc. That wobbling also eats up bearing oil clearance, and consequently eats up bearings (and the engine when a main bearing spins in it's journal). And then there's rpm. Making the power by spinning the engine faster, but not necessarily twisting the crank harder. Rotational forces increase at the square of the rpm. To turn the crank 10,000+ rpm it needs to be strong, well balanced, and straight. The stock crank is not fully counterweighted. It was never intended to turn that fast. Without those counterweights, it'll wobble when turned to those speeds, not from the power pulses as in the example above, but from extreme imbalance. Those pistons and rods weigh a ton or more at that kind of rpm. The result is the same. So you have to ask yourself... Can the stock crank "handle" it? Maybe. But can anyone tell me that 100+hp and extending main bearing life by 10 times is not worth $2,500? That's on the conservative side. If the crank lets go at 10K rpm, there's a good chance that the entire engine will be a write off

Most oil filters (including the FRAM) have a built-in bypass, so the point is actually pretty moot... This is the reason I say the filter didn't collapse due to debris from the bearing; it's impossible. To be fair to Fram, they do have a metal inner liner, where many of the past problems people had were because of the plastic liner.

And that's why it's not directed at him, but at the machine shop. They claim it distorts the mating faces when Eagle presses in the bolts... The bolts don't press in. That means the Machine shop is full of it; they either don't know what they're looking at or they've never seen them and are just regurgitating BS.

OK. This is pretty recent. To start off, I can't say the failure is 100% the filters fault... Sometimes you have customers that just go beyond the limits of common sense. This is a simple case of not listening to what the builder (with 20 years of engine and car building experience) is telling you. When you drop a 500hp SR20 into a Mazda Miata that came with a 1.6 liter, 120hp engine, there are going to be a few quid pro quo's. One area I take great care in is very detailed instructions to owners of cars like this on exactly what you can and can not do with the car. Relavent to this discussion: #1. The cooling capacity of this system is about 300 sustained hp. It's a Miata. It has limited frontal area and therefore, limited airflow to the radiator, etc... On the "high power" setting, this is a short-burst system. Quarter mile drag race is fine, but it needs to cool down between bursts. #2. Don't use the orange filter from the base service station. Although I've never had a problem with them, there's just too much stuff floating around out there to completely discard. Car comes in with a low idle and not-so-good idle vacuum... What happened? "Well, I know you said not to do it, but there was this pack of bikes on the express way and we battled for about 15 to 20 miles. It got real hot and started spewing coolant, so I eased off." Anylisis: Hot head makes for great detonation and burned pistons. I thought that was the end of it. However, tear down revealed that a piece of the plastic bypass valve in the orange filter (that's right) went into the oil galley post-filter and clogged the galley to the head. You can imagine the damage without my having to elaborate. I say it might not be 100% the filters fault because I can't even imagine what the oil temp was to make the plastic brittle enough to break off. A friends shop did the tear down and will do the rebuild and any further maintenance on the car. This was the last straw. If you don't give any credence to what I'm telling you about your car, I don't want to work on it. Although in retrospect, it could also be said to be my fault for building it in the first place, knowing the customers character and what not... Here's an excerpt from one of out conversations: Him: Dude I need more power. Me: Why? Him: These guys I know with GT-R's are beating me. Me: You drive a Miata. Him: Yea, but I gotta beat those guys. Me: Get a different car. Him: I like the Miata. Me: It's gonna' cost a lot of money to do something like that. Him: Then you'll do it... Me = Sucka Anyway, that's the Fram filter horror story.

Eagle rods are cap screw. The bolts don't press in. They have dowels for alignment, the bolts screw in from the cap. Just like Pauter, Carrillo, Crower, etc. etc. Seriously, soemone who has used or even seen the rod and knows what they're doing could never make this up. To come to this conclusion, you either... 1. Don't have a clue as to what you're looking at. 2. Have never seen it, and are just passing BS You read on the Internet. In either case, I would recommend staying away from that machine shop. I do, however, have another Fram oil filter failure that cost an engine it's life... Too bad the thread is closed.

One piece or two piece makes little difference as long as you get the grain to flow in a "hoop" around the big end. This is one area where forged rods beat out billets. Billets have the grain going in one direction, where forged rods can make the material denser and shape the grain to be stronger relative to the direction it will be stressed.

HKS=Carrillo

Most high-end machines like the Panasonic and Miller Dynasty series self adjust power input. 50-60Hz and 200-400V. Panasonic sells this welder in the US and Australia, as well, but mostly it's used in production robotic welding. It was around the same price as a comparable Miller Dyansty series with all the bells and whistles. I'm always having to reconfigure the machine, and the 50 memory settings sold me; you just push one button and turn a dial. That, and the fact that the two Panasonic tig machines I've had in the past went 8 and 10 years each before needing ANY maintenance. 400Hz AC wave is sick for welding thin aluminum.

RB25DET tranny uses a pulse generator VSS from the factory. The Autometer gauge for electronic speedo should work. As a side note, because many people use the 25 trans for other things, there are quite a few of them out there that have been swapped for a cable drive you can get out of a different tranny. They're electronic from the factory, though.

WooHoo! Just ordered my new welder. Been using a Panasonic WP300 for the last 10 years. It was starting to sugre and having difficulty holding an arc under 10 amps, so I decided to upgrade to the Panasonic BP2. Fully digital. Twin inverter. 50-400Hz for AC welding. 50 Channel weld setting memory. And it looks cool! http://industrial.panasonic.com/ww/i_e/29865/fa-awm_e/fa-awm_e/tig_e.html#bp2 Had to tell someone... That is all.

I've done lots of cars like this. I use thick steel els instead of stainless. For filler rod you want to use something with 50%+ nickel, 90% is better. While steel will work, nickel is the correct rod for welding to cast fixtures. Just make sure the surface is very clean (ground to silver with no pores showing), and really lump in the filler; the casting is not very dense, so it likes to pull away once melted and leaves a big curf.