cheftrd

I'd still be about a 2.5 hour plane ride south of you, and you'd be bored to death Most "speed shop" operations are small. The stuff the heavy hitters build is mostly illegal as hell on the street, so it's pretty underground... I'd skip the whole thing and just go see what "Japan" has to offer. 10 days in Japan and you'll just scratch the surface. There's a lot to see. For fun, try to ride and figure out the train and subway system in Tokyo. Most Japanese speak a little English, are very polite and well mannered. If you get lost or need to figure something out, just ask someone. People in Tokyo tend to stay in their own space and will act surprised when you "crack" their shell, but will lighten up immediately once they see you're not some weirdo. Other places, people are a lot more open. If you get lost or need help with some translation, you can call my cell phone any time 09088317450. Good luck and enjoy that flight!

I've never used anything but stock belts in anything. Timing belt stress is increased by the valve train load. The heavier the spring and higher the lift, the higher the load. I've never used any of the American dual valve spring sets, but I've run the heaviest Japanese single springs with 11+mm of lift and never had a failure. On heavy spring, high lift motors I tell people to change the belt every two years, regardless.

You're a madman.

And that's coming from someone who has experience driving high HP cars.

Six of one, half a dozen of the other... At the 500hp mark you'll probably be too scared to notice the difference for quite some time. At the 800hp mark 110% of your focus will be on driving the car straight through fourth gear. Most likely, you won't be able to recall anything form the run other than blurred vision. In Japan 500hp in a GT-R won't get you a second look 750hp GT-R's aren't rare. I know of five RB26's within 30 miles of me that are making 1,000+ (four are street drivers). My car made over 800, but it's now getting parted Trans is still up for grabs, but it ain't cheap (almost new HKS Holinger 6sp dog with clutch and spare parts! Damper and oil cooler are on Ebay right now). Yea, that was a shameless plug... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DSelling&item=150318206109&viewitem=

Mike, you'll be able to hit 500 to the wheels with a completely stock head. 260ish cams just make it with less boost. The stock injectors aren't going to hang, though. 700cc injectors will get you there at about 75% duty. If the money's there, I'd go with Tomei 260 Poncams and a type "A" valve spring. This will make fat power between 4,000 and 8,000 and not put a lot of stress on the top-end. A lot of guys on this forum are getting in waaay over their head They just have no idea what 500 RB26 hp in an S30 is like, let alone 800. In my opinion, 500 is the perfect round # for power in an S30. It's absolutely brutal on the street.

270's at 1,100 rpm with cat and legal db muffler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCvIJXKjUXo

My info on the platinum vs. iridium "debate" comes straight from Nippon Denso, not an Internet forum. NGK and Denso race plugs are iridium. The stock replacement Denso iridium plugs center electrode was designed to last 200,000 miles. Platinum center electrodes are about 1.1mm in diameter. Iridium center electrodes are about 0.7mm. Iridium race center electrodes are about 0.4mm. In well tuned, semi-daily driven 250hp per liter engines, NGK Racing Iridium fine-wire plugs (with the smallest electrodes) last me three years. In an 800hp RB26, plugs will die from cracking, fouling, etc., cams will wear out, piston rings will wear out, bearings will wear out, etc., long before the plug electrodes wear out from erosion... The "which one lasts longest" debate is senseless. Guys arguing on Internet forums about which 60,000+ mile plug will last longest when they're putting them in high performance engines that probably won't see that much millage in its lifetime ...

I have the NGK and NGK Racing catalogs. The R7436 plug has a 2.5mm longer insulator, and will still work. They have the same type "C" fine-wire ground electrode. Race plugs should only be used in race engines, though. If it does a lot of idling or street driving, they'll carbon foul pretty quick R32 turbo and non turbo RB20 use PFR6A-11 and PFR5A-11 respectively. The "A" plug is 2.5mm taller at the electrode. R32 RB25DE uses the PFR5K-11, which is pretty much the same thing as the "A" plug. One's a JIS standard and the other's ISO. Iridium melts at a much higher temperature, so it has a smaller center electrode, allowing the spark to initiate at thousands of volts less. Where the platinum plug "blows out", the iridium will continue to fire. Basically, iridium can make more power than the platinum plug before it hits the ignition-misfire wall. Iridium is also much harder than platinum, so the wear resistance is better.

NGK plugs for the RB25DET are: Nissan part# 22401-1P116 NGK part# PFR6G-11 P=Platinum F=14mmD x 19mmL threads and 16mm socket R=Resistor 6=Heat Range G=Length of the plug from tip to seat (50.5mm), center electrode protrusion (3.5mm), chamber protrusion (0mm). -11=1.1mm gap Running more boost, larger turbo, etc., step up to a 7 or 8. NGK Iridium IX # BKR6IX-11 NGK Iridium Max # BKR6EIX-11 NGK Iridium "tuned engine" plug # IRIWAY (7,8,9,10,11) NGK Racing # R7434 (8,9,10) (about $35 each) NGK Low Budget # BCPR6ES-11 Plugs get hotter as the # drops. 5 is hotter than 6. PFR5G-11 is listed as RB25DE and RB25DET plug for R33 and PFR6G-11 is a little colder and the RB25DET plug for the RB34. The Nissan # is the same for both engines The B-11B plug electrode protrudes 6.5mm (3.5mm stock) and the plug protrusion is 3.5mm (0mm stock), making it way hotter than the stock plug. There is no PFR#B-11 plug listed.

I don't really have any experience with the RB30, but with the RB26, the magic number seems to be 9,500. 8,500 with the big lifts and I've never had a problem. Haven't heard of any problems either, but that doesn't mean much... It's the higher revs with the valves bouncing around like mad. The problem with the 280's is that I can't remember ever seeing a dyno plot that made peak hp under 9,000 rpm! 280 cammed RB26's love to rev out to 10K. Even 264 camed engines with big turbos and the valve timing down around 110 and 115 love to rev to around 9,500. Maybe if you took out some overlap and kept it around 118 and 123 or so...? I'd look and see what the guys in Oz and NZ are doing for peak power rpm with the RB30's and big cams. Be nice to have all that power without revving the hell out of it. I like the stock valve size or even up to 1mm larger, but I would sport for aftermarket intake valves just in case. Never had a problem with the exhaust valves. I give around 15% off of list for Tomei, but right now with the strong yen, stuff from here will be expensive in US or AU $

That much spring and cam lift with the stock valves and you're going to find out the meaning of expensive pain. Stock intake valves love to pop the head off in engines revving 9,500+ with 10+ lift, high pressure springs and heavy retainers. The attached pictures are of valve drop #3 in one of my engines about 10 years ago. The first two times I thought it was a fluke... You can see how soft the stock valves are by how badly the keepers have imprinted the tip. One question I always ask people is if you can make 800hp with the stock valve train (including stock springs) and 272 cams with under 10mm of lift, why all the exotic stuff? You're significantly increasing the wear and tear on the engine for no real gains in the "under 750 club". "Berry-ring" is Tomei speak for beryllium seats. Transfers the heat out of the valve better than the stock seats. It's mainly used with titanium valves to keep them from wearing out so fast. Every time the valve slams closed, there's some "micro welding" that happens and erodes the seat and valve. Titanium doesn't wear near as fast on a beryllium seat as it does on a standard seat. It's the difference between a 1,000hp RB26 and a 1,100hp RB26. To each his own, but if you're planning on under 750hp, you need pistons, rods, cams, "A" springs are a good idea, aftermarket head bolts or studs. That's it. Never even lost a stock head gasket at this level. Keep the revs under 8,500 and it'll run forever. The RB26 has other limiting factors that set the power limit before you get to the level where some of these mods are needed. Case in point: All this new hi-tech stuff coming on the market as of late, but the engine hasn't made any substantial power gains in the last 10 years. Like I said, buy it if you want it, but remember that dual valve springs do not add reliability to the engine

My GT-R has buried the 320km/hr speedo, so they must be straight enough... Have you seriously not heard of the Wangan Expressway? I thought Japan was the leader in top-speed illegal street racing. So why the sarcasm? Anyway, sure lots of guys have broken the pumps. Lots of my customers have broken them, too (I believe I posted pics here years ago...). To date, there's been exactly one catastrophic failure...because the guy drove it home with the light on and no pressure. The others were shut down right away and suffered zero damage. I broke one at 9,000rpm and tore the engine down only to find zero bearing damage. Like I said, the only time it seems to happen is when you start getting into the bigger revs. If you have an RB26 that's only making around 400-500hp and the max revs are around stock, you won't have a problem. If you have the motor apart, by all means modify it, but to tear a motor completely apart just to do this mod when you're keeping it close to stock is foolish. A bright warning light is all you need. You stated that all 32's have the short drive. This is false. Only the early 32's have the short drive. The crank changed when they went to the pull clutch ( I don't remember the year). On G forces... I'm talking about accelerating forces. My GT-R has gone 8.8" in the quarter. At one G of forward acceleration, the oil will stand up at 45 degrees in the rear of the sump. I'm not talking about baffeling, I'm talking about oil defying the laws of physics. Tell me how oil is returning to the sump down the long -16 hose I have running from the back of the head to the front of the pan. Plain and simple, when It's on the gas, oil doesn't move forward. In fact, if your hose is at the bottom-rear of the GT-R sump, you have a nice exit for oil to leave the sump. Of course it would drain straight down into a Z's rear sump, but it was done waaay before that in front sump pans. So what gives? I originally started doing this mod around 1995. I didn't say it wasn't necessary in big power engines, I said it's not for oil return. It's for blow-by. It facilitates oil return. See, when you have an RB26 that turns 10,000rpm at 30 pounds of boost, there's a tremendous amount of blow-by. It's inevitable. Now, if you have all this blow-by going up the oil returns on the left side of the engine, into the head, and out the vlave covers, where is the oil returning? It's not. Natural crank windage wants to pull down on the left side of the engine. It also wants to push up on the right side of the engine. That's why the drains are on the right in the RB26 and most engines that the crank rotates in that direction. When you pop that hole on in the pan on the right side and run a large hose to the back of the head, you're creating a natural path for the blow-by up to the head. This in turn will create a sort of suction on the vents on the right side, alowing oil to more easily return to the sump. It's unnecessary on 99.9% of the motors on the road. The super Taikyu engines don't use it. The HKS Zero R doesn't use it. The R34 Nismo Z tune doesn't use it... Lap after lap on the Nurburg Ring with no problems. Saurus is one of the top RB26 drag engine builders in the world. I've had a few of their 700+ hp engines roll through my shop and none of them had the oil return mod. None of 'em had oil pressure problems, either. It's a mod that's required for big boost, big rpm engines. People have been led to believe that the stock oil returns are inadequate, and if you don't do something about it, your motor will break, and that's just false. I've done countless 500hp-ish RB26's that have never, ever had this problem. Once again... Not saying don't do it. Just that most people dont need it, but have been duped into believing they'll have engine woes if they don't. I have never installed an oil restrictor in the RB26. I have never had a problem with oil pressure due to lack of oil in the pan because it's in the head. Something I don't understand, if you've "personally seen many rb26 head components damaged by restricting the oil flowing to the head", why would you even be selling 'em? Since this seems to be the new classifieds section, keep an eye out in the real classifieds, as I'm going to be parting out my R in the comming days and weeks. Everything goes except the body, which is an original Nismo R32.

They did get it right, for the most part. They didn't build the motor for 10,000 rpm and 2 bar of boost, which is how most of these mods came to be. Now the entire Intenet thinks that their 500hp RB26 is going to come apart at the seams if they don't do these "miminum" mods... Here's a new one that goes along with the others: Don't forget to change the intake valves. Engineis with stock valves and heavy springs have a hard time keeping the head on the stem over 9,500 rpm... Valves love to drop into the cylinder. Here's some RB trivia: I first did the "oil drain back" about 13 years ago, but the mod wasn't originally intended to return oil to the pan. I think some people saw it being done on very high power RB's, assumed it was an oil drain, and the ball was set rolling... Anyone got a guess, or know what the actual purpose is? Hint: It promotes oil drain back. Later small-port Toyota 4AG's started getting the mod from the factory. At 1g of forward acceleration, the oil in the pan will stand up at a 45* angle on the rear bulkhead. How is oil from the rear of the head moving forward to the front of the oil pan in my 8 second GT-R? Later 32 engines have the long oil pump drive too (around the same time they went to a pull-clutch. It's not really a problem unless you're turning around 8,500 rpm. If you're turning sub-8,000, there's no reason to upgrade the stock pump, so you don't really need to be worried. If you're concerned, get a big oil pressure light. As long as you shut it down right away, the motor will be fine. There are thousands of GT-R's running around in Japan without the oil pump drive mod

Awesome. It's a funny feeling to have it squirming like that and just keep it on the floor and pulling gears...

Yep. That or you can use the small one coming off the back of the balance tube.

Mike, the air chamber is what supplies air to the balance tube above the throttles. It has a mian tube that pulls from the plenum, and two tubes that run up into the balance tube. In addition to that, it also "sees" manifold vacuum and has a couple of nice 6mm hose outlets for gauges, etc. Removing it would mean having to find another way to get air behind the throttle plates. Additionally, the AAC valve makes for an idle-up solenoid for AC or cold-engine fast-idle. The screw that's in it is for idle speed. What you don't want to do is use the throttle stop and crack the throttles open more to bring the idle up. Matt

Man did this thread just put a damper on my day... I was looking around the Internet for "SBC Flat Plane Crankshaft" and HybridZ was at the top of the list. I was under the assumption someone out there made them and it would be off-the-shelf parts. It would be an awesome swap for my R32 GT-R (yea, you read that right)... I guess we'll Ctrl-Alt-Delete this part of the project...

Call SDS and talk to Barry. A while back we were working on doing a PNP for the Nissan CAS. I don't know how far they went with it, but he may have some very useful info for you.

That's funny. Because ARP says just the opposite with head bolts and studs. Aluminum expands more, so the given torque value when using aluminum heads is less... Then the Internal Combustion Handbook by SAE says that torque values are given for worst-case scenario friction (extremely slippery) to keep from over-tightening bolts. And that even then, the actual preload force when tightening by torque varies as much as +/-25% from fastener to fastener, and therefore are given at around 75% of the fasteners yield under the worst-case friction... Did that make sense?? I'd say it's OK to torque them to what the directions say

If you're going to be circuit racing, the 26 is more responsive and has smoother power delivery with it's IRTB's, solid high-lift cams, and was made to do exactly this type of racing. Just putting IRTB's on the 25 could make up the $2,000 difference. Seriously, though, If my goal was 500hp and the deciding factor was cost, I would stick with the L. I saw a bunch of old-school L's with carbureted-turbo engines and sub injectors put a hurtin' on some really powerfull RB's today... Then I had a Turbo400 come apart in the burnout-box. Bell housing actually broke off... Not a good day.

Depends on your definition of "best". Guy I know has a GT-R that goes 8's with twin IHI RHX6's...

A little late, but...

The only thing that "bolts on" is the exhaust housing to the exhaust manifold. The RB turbos have a "tucked up" style exhaust housing, meaning the center of the shaft is closer to the turbine flange. The S15 turbos will hang a little lower. The holes that are in the 26 compressor housing where the oil and coolant line junction bolt to are not there. The turbine housing outlet flange is different. The compressor housing outlet is different (three bolts instead of the 26's two, and I believe the compressor inlet flange is clocked a little different. Hope that helps. Oh yea, and the inlet to the S15 exhaust housing is full size, where the RB manifolds are choked down to about 2/3. This kills gas velocity into the turbine and makes them quite laggy.

No. I mean 110 degree lobe center for the intake and 115 degree lobe center for the exhaust. Lobe center is the point on the cam where the valve lift is exactly between opening and closing. 110 degree intake means the valve is exactly at the mid point in its stroke at 110 degrees ATDC on the intake stroke. 115 degrees exhaust means the valve is exactly at the mid point in its stroke at 115 degrees BTDC in the exhaust stroke. You're thinking of LSA which is lobe seperation angle. This is the seperation in degrees between the intake and exhaust lobes for a cylinder. LSA means nothing without knowing at what degree the valves open and close respective to the crank angle, only the relationship between intake and exhaust cam. The LSA for lobe centers of 110 and 115 is 112.5. This is pretty good for turbo engines. The narrower this angle, the more overlap, which is a bad thing in turbo engines. Many NA engines like LSA's of around 106 to 110. You could drop the LSA in the RB to 106* and make it all lumpety-lump, but you'd lose low and midrange power. http://compcams.com/Technical/TimingTutorial/