cheftrd

I don't think it was bearing doodoo that caused the filter to fail in this case. I've seen engines in terrible shape with tons of junk in the pan, and the filter was still flowing like a champ. Most likely what happened here is the filter self destructed and sent part of itself into the #1 pin, clogging the oil feed. With a bypass in place, you wouldn't realize it if you had a clogged filter (unless parts of it destroyed a bearing), and all the junk from your oil pan goes through the bypass and ruins the rest of the engine. All the engine builders I've takled to plug filter bypasses built into the engine. Many engines don't even have a filter bypass. I like 100% of the oil going through the filter, all the time. A low pressure warning light will tell you in the very, very rare event that a filter should clog. That and the filter will explode! Anyway, run a good filter and you won't need to worry about it.

Thanks Q. It would depend on the rpm more than the power. High rpm and I would stick with the L19 bolts. My engine, Eagle. Customers engine, Carrillo. Which is kind of funny because my engine currently has Carrillo rods, but was built before Eagle was producing for the RB26... make sense?

First, let it be known that I’m not “endorsing†or “advocating†anything here. People will use what they want to. Now, on Eagle rods: It’s a mystery to me as well why Sean would say that. Especially as MANY of the leading engine builders in the industry use them. In fact, the BES 400ci small block Chevy that won the JEGS Engine Masters last time used an ESP crank and rods; making 673hp and 581lb of torque on pump gas. The reciprocating loads in that engine are waaaay heavier than your RB. Eagle rods had a problem… Well, not the rod, specifically, but the bolts. When Eagle entered the import market, the ARP bolts supplied with the rods were 5/16†(I believe) and not up to the task. Bolts are now, and have been for quite a while, 3/8†ARP2000 with the L19 option. But it’s been one of those things that stick around…sigh. Rod failures. I’ve been studying rod failures for quite some time now. Here’s what I’ve found: Probably 99% of catastrophic “rod failures†are actually bolt failures. The rod bolt is the most highly stressed fastener in the engine. Although it can happen, a rod beam separation failure is very rare. To separate, the beam would need to be weaker than the rod bolt (not likely), or have an existing defect that forms a crack, etc. When people see a rod ejected from an engine, they assume it was a rod failure, when actually it was most likely a rod bolt failure. Most actual rod failures are of too forms: Bending and shape-shifting. Too much power (downward load on the rod) can bend a rod beam, but rarely will it separate. I’ve seen lots of rods that severely bent from hydraulicing, but never one that broke. Shape shifting is the bane of the stock rod. High rpm can produce loads that will oval the rod big-end. This, in turn, will destroy the bearing by hammering it on the long axis and “buffing†in on the short axis. Ever see someone get a rod knock and only change the bearing because everything “looks†good, only to have the knock return? That’s because the rod has deformed. Damage investigation: If everything is in the pan or on the ground, it was most likely a bolt separation. Inspecting the bolts will show how they broke. Once the piston and part of the rod are gone, inertial loads on the rod bolts are down to almost zero. They would have to be sheared off by the oil pan rail, etc, to separate from the rod pin. Inspecting how the bolt broke will tell the tale. Eagle rods are a 4340 chromoly forging with ARP2000 or L19 bolts, doweled caps, etc. They are waaaaaaaaaaay better than stock. They are forged in China along with many, many other rods, cranks, etc. Then they’re sized and finished in the US. Here are the features: • First connecting rod manufacturer to machine on the state-of-the-art Sunnen Krossgrindingâ„¢ System to hold extremely tight tolerances! Center to center length +/- .001 Big End Barrel / Bellmouthing +/- .0002 Big End Bore +/- .0002 -- Pin end bore +/- .0002 • Weight savings between 30-70 grams (depending on rod length). • Reduce balancing cost! Larger stroke applications can see savings of $100.00 to $200.00 on balancing cost alone! • All Eagle "ESP" connecting rods are available individulally or in sets. Please specify weights on individual rod purchases. • 3-D Design offers the advantages of reduced weight without sacrificing any of our original rod's strength, offering maximum strength to weight ratio. • 2-Piece forging for increased strength. • Ready to run, installation instruction and bolt lubricant included. • Silicon bronze bushings for floating piston pins. • Multi-stage heat treated. • Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram. • Certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities. • Each forging is X-rayed, sonic tested and magnafluxed to insure quality. • All surfaces are 100% machined. • Shot peened to stress relieve the metal. • Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, maintaining big end bore size and eliminating cap walk. • Eagle "ESP" Connecting Rods provide the strength and durability required in unlimited engines at a sportman rod price. Ball bearings are the highest tolerance machined thing on the planet. Guess where many of them are made? “Made in China†doesn’t mean bad quality anymore. You want a cheap product? They’ll build it for you. Want a good product? They can build that too. I do a lot of cast welding on turbo housings. Garrett housings are the best quality, with the least amount of impurities and inclusions. Guess where they’re casted? I’m certainly not endorsing buying China made products. But I also won’t lie and say they only produce junk when that’s simply not the case… Carrillo makes the best rod, but they’re expensive. Pauter is up there too. I’ve used both. Lately, I’ve gone to the Eagles. They have performed flawlessly for me and allow the customer to put the $500-$700 saved somewhere else. It’s almost impossible for a 4340 H beam rod to fail from too much power. RPM is the rod killer. I’ve spun the Eagles with L19 bolts in RB’s and SR’s to over 10,000. The DSM guys making absurd power swear by them. I’ve had one problem. One piston pin bore was a little tight for my taste and I resized it. It would have worked, but I can’t sleep if everything’s not spot-on… But then we also had a rod bearing spin using a Pauter rod at 11,000rpm in a turbo 4AG on the dyno. I doubt that was the rods fault, but what if I said it was and it got around the Internet? See where that goes. People who have opinions others respect should be very careful of what they say in public forums… ‘nuf said. After much reading, I decided that forged rods are the way to go. All rods start out as “billetsâ€â€¦ If correct anisotropy is obtained during the forging process, a forged rod can be stronger than a billet, which has single direction grain. This is extremely important in the cap/big end, which can deform under extreme inertial load. Billet manufactures claim less impurities and surface irregularities make their rods better. Forgings like the Eagles or Carrillos are vacuum degassed to remove impurities, and100% of the surface is machined to remove any stress risers. Then they’re X-rayed, sonic tested, etc. This is not to say that an Eagle rod is better than a Pauter rod. There’s a lot more to it than just forged or billet. One thing is for sure. Eagle rods are leaps and bounds better than the stock rods, and will, without a doubt hold up to big power in an RB. THAT is my opinion on the Eagle rod matter. FWIW, I don’t go over 500hp on the stock RB26 pistons. Sure others have made a lot more, but it’s too close to the edge for me to put my name on. One little thing and you can kiss your ring lands goodbye. I’ve seen 26’s let go of the #6 lands at 500hp with no hint of knock. It’s a used engine; no telling what it’s been through. People love to use coated bearings for the extra protection; I think of forged pistons at the 500hp mark the same way. As long as you’re in the engine, $550 bones on some rods is good insurance too.

Mark, Your Z is one of my all-time favorites. That thing just looks bad-ass. Anyway, it sounds like severe compressor surge to me. The ported shrouds will help some, but may not eliminate it. It’s part of the problem with having high response turbos that are still large enough to make the power… I just tell my customers to stay out of the surge band, but it’s hard to find the surge line when you drop the hammer at 9K! For those who are wondering, surge happens in axial and centrifugal compressors because there is no “stopper†that seals the inlet with a one-way-valve like a supercharger would (sort of). It’s kind of complicated, but the basics are this: When the pressure (head) is too high for the flow rate, the compressor stalls aerodynamically, kind of like an airplane wing would stall. When this happens, flow reverses, moving back through the compressor and it chugs. The compressor blades rely on sound aerodynamics to compress the air; when you see it like this, you can understand why it doesn’t just make more boost at lower flow rates.

No, I wasn't talking to you. If you're going to build engines for customers and give them they're money's worth, you need to study the stuff to be a better basket weaver. If not, you're just a hack selling something you don't understand. I'm glad your afr's are rock solid. Ask Stony about the engine he bought running high boost and 280 cams with an inline MAFS, big single throttle with aftermarket surge tank making 600hp vs. my engines with 270 cams, only 1.3 bar of boost, stock ITB's and speed density making 600hp on the same dyno... Nice looking SR. I have a customer running speed density making 700hp in a daily driver. It makes 450WHP at 1bar. Same chasis dyno as the other two engines. I know a little about tuning SR's too.

So, are you saying that air, flowing at the same speed, but twice the density across a surface will cool the surface twice as much? You would be wrong. It cools a little more due to the additional molecules, but not even close to being a large enough differential to tune accurately. The major cooling delta T comes from the air speed through the sensor. MAS has to do mostly with changes in temperature; cooler air is more dense and the sensor can read this because the air is...cooler, which in turn, cools the wire. Barometric pressure changes, but this is minor, not 20 and 30 psi increases. If what you're saying is true, and flow isn't really a factor, we could use a 200mm pipe with the sensor in it in fromt of the turbo, eliminating any restriction. Air resistance increases at the square of the speed, but not even linear to the density because it's a compressable medium. Why do 99.9% of tuners scrap the MAF in favor of speed density with high power applications if you can just put it in the pipe and eliminate the restriction? Why don't the manufacturers do it? BS in mechanical engineering+physics major+ASE Master tech says I don't need to read up on it; I already have. Instead of me looking up "anecdotal information" from some internet forum, or believing crap spewed by some tuner that defends something just because that's the way they do it and are too dumb to know different, why don't you pick up a physics book and read up. Just wondering, but do either one of you guys actually build and tune engnies for a living? I do. almost 20 years experience with EFI. MAF in the pipe works for a crappy tune compared to leaving it in front of the turbo, or better yet, speed density. Based on actual R&D and not stuff I gathered from Wikipedia, Zilvia, 240SX.com, etc. Now we know where my info comes from, let's hear yours.

Those prices are for the balanced LD crank (not fully counterweighted). The crank at the bottom right of the Kameari page for 490,000 yen is the same crank on the auction, but with a longer stroke. It's an SCM440H (4140 chromoly) billet from Kameari. If it's in good shape, that's a good price.

Quality is excelent. People make over 1,000hp on the high dollar kit. As far as I know, Tomei is the only one producing the cooling chanel forging. It's a two piece forging. Cooling chanel pistons run upward of 40C cooler in the ring land area vs. no chanel oil cooled pistons. They're expensive.

That's with the eight counter weight crank. The fully counter weighted crank is $4500 by itself. My price on the HKS Step 1 kit is $4810 plus shipping, and that includes a fully counterweighted crank. The Step 3 kit for $7878 cost that much more because it's a billet crank. The thing I don't like about these kits is instead of pushing up the pin in the piston, they elect to use a shorter rod. The rod angle is already increased because of the additional stroke, but then they shorten it making the angle even worse??

The reason you don't see people running MAF on the pressure side is because they can't measure pressure. Thery measure flow. If you're running 1 bar of boost (all efficiencies given at 100%), the air entering the turbo is twice the volumetric flow of the engine. Once the air is compressed to 1 bar (after the turbo), the flow is that of the engine, but it's twice as dense. The AFM can't see density changes. Therefore, the ECU adds the same anount of fuel whether you're on the boost or not for any given rpm. It's actually worse, because the heated air under boost actually causes the ECU to lean the fuel. If you have the tune set for WOT on boost at, say, 5000 rpm, it won't run very well at 5000rpm when there's no boost yet and you're at WOT on a hard transient. At lower boost levels, it just makes for a poor tune that will ususally run without misfire. The higher the boost level, the larger the gap. Basically, you can tune it for WOT on the boost, and make it run OK, but you can't have the best of both worlds.

If you can do all the fab yourself, you can get it done for $10K including stand-alone engine management and the 33 trans. The motor in bone-stock condition will do 450 with more boost, but the turbos won't last long. If you're mechanic savvy, the parts required to bring the engine to the 700hp level can be done for around $5,000-7,000; pistons, rods, cams, turbo stuff, but you'll have to shop around and find some good deals. I charge about $20K to do it from start to finish including engine management and all the parts. That's very cheap If I were in the States, it would be the LS-whatever, hands down.

Looked like a good launch to me. A Powerglide's not going to hit like a manual. 1.2" 60' time isn't too shabby. That car's pretty famous. It runs 8's. Maybe something was wrong with the board. He showed 120 and change and 5's to the eighth mile.

Bob's #'s are correct, although a little misleading. The weight gap closes up considerably when you add a complete turbo system and beefier transmission to the L.

Speedglas FTW. Why? because the two helmets I bought ten years ago still work every day. I use them for students. They darken on HF. The helmet I use is the 9000X. Oh yea... They're expensive. Think $300+. If you have $100 eyes, wear a $100 helmet.

I don't know where that came from. If you look at the major import hitters, many of them are using Eagle rods and have nothing but good stuff to say. I've spun them in the SR20DET to 9500rpm. I have a 540cid Donovan BBC that makes 1350hp on the bench. 14:1 compression and 8000 rpm, uses an Eagle crank and rods. Look on the domestic forums and you'll read nothing but good stuff about the Eagle rods.

Did the motor have a misfire at 450hp? If it did and it was the coils, it would happen at a progressively lower rpm as you increased cylinder pressure by boost or nitrous. MSD sells spacer blocks for the GM style coils. These take the power and ground wires to the coils and intercept them for hook-up of the DIS. In my experience with the SDS, misfire will always set an rpm error. This includes a lean misfire. The only reason I have ever had repeating misfire problems is due to inadequate coil output starting around 250hp/liter. Other things that could cause this is too much air gap between the mags and hall sensor, bad alignment of the mags and hall sensor, flimsy hall sensor mount, electronic noise from being right next to the alternator, etc. A customers TEC3 system once did this because the sensor was too close to the electric fan. All the COP engines I do now use the MSD DIS and the stock coils. The SDS works well like this. It's something I came up with, tried, and used ever since. To date, I've run the stock Nissan coils in a waste fire format with the DIS up to 325whp per liter with no spark problems. Many have years as daily drivers wired like this with no coil failures.

Jamie, The rpm error is most likely being set by a misfire. If you are using the supplied SDS coils, they are at the end of the road at that power level. You'll get a misfire and a nasty backfire when using nitrous. Starting at around 250hp/liter is where I've always found the end on any type of engine. You need to start using the MSD DIS. Never had any misfire troubles once the DIS is on line.

Seeing as how the "boosted" pressure in the crank case is the same as it is in the intake tract (the exact same as if it were only ambient pressure), when the piston moves down, pressurizing the crank case, air will move anywhere it can. That means up the transfers and back out the intake, etc. Also, the piston moves down, pressurizing the crank case way before the transfer ports open up at the bottom of the stroke. If the pressure is increasing, and the ports are not open yet, where does the charge go? Back out the intake... ALL two strokes that use piston motion to move the air must use a one way valve because of this, be it a piston valve, rotary valve, or reed valve. The diesel two strokes don't because they use a supercharger to compress the air and the air does not enter the crank case. The only way to do it on a bike is to eliminate the transfer ports and blow the charge directly into the cylinder when the ports open up. To do this, you must have a supercharger or a turbo that makes significant boost on idle. This also leaves you wondering how to lube the bottom end.

The reed valve in a two stroke is a one way valve that keeps the air/fuel charge from pumping back out and into the carb when the piston comes down and ensures it goes up the transfer ports and into the cylinder. You can't remove it or the engine won't work.

Two stroke engines rely mostly on a low pressure area in the exhaust port to evacuate the spent charge where the four stroke pushes it out with the piston. As the expansion chamber widens (diverges), the gasses further increase speed and pressure drops. This pressure drop actually creates a low pressure area in the port for the exhaust gasses to fill. Adding pressure to this area would be extremely detrimental to engine operation, let alone the negative effect the turbo itself would have on wave reversion back into the chamber and engine.

Nobody was saying you can't PUT a turbo on a two stroke. They were saying it probably won't work very well. Besides exhaust back pressure, there's also the issue of exhaust energy. When the exhaust hits the expansion chamber, two things happen: 1. It loses velocity shortly after the divergence. 2. It loses a great deal of heat once it enters the divergence. When heat is lost, the gas condenses and there is further pressure drop. Will it work? Sure. Will it work well? Probably not. This may be the example where the supercharger actually works better than the turbo for power production.

Two strokes depend on the exhaust being "sucked" out by proper tuning of the expansion chamber. Putting a turbo in there and creating back pressure would kill the motor. I have seen Jetski's with superchargers here. Huge power at low boost, but high boost isn't possible because of the crank case seals. I've even seen crank case seals and base gaskets blow out just by adding blocks to the crank to decrease volume, thereby increasing the ram effect into the transfer ports.

All of the Detroit Diesels I have worked on are two stroke, supercharged, and sometimes super-turbocharged. Like Pop N Wood said, they have only exhaust valves and no intake valve. When the piston is nearing the bottom of the power stroke (every stroke), the exhaust valve opens, blowing down the cylinder. Near the same time the piston slides past a port or ports in the bottom of the cylinder. Pressurized air from the supercharger (super high boost) enters the cylinder through these ports and pushes the exhaust gasses out the exhaust valve. The piston starts back up the bore, covering the port and the exhaust valve closes. When the piston gets close to TDC, fuel is injected and ignites, pushing the piston back down the bore, starting the cycle all over again. Without the supercharger, it can't run; it requires boost to fill the cylinder and evacuate the exhaust. Some of the V engines, like the 6V71 use a HUGE turbocharger that blows directly into the supercharger inlet. The supercharger then takes in air that is already pressurized to infinity and compresses it by another several atmospheres. PHENOMENAL COSMIC TORQUE. Some of these engines make around 500hp at 1500rpm. That's 1750lb of torque.

Stinks like coolant= Smells like coolant. OK, now you re-read my post, because you missed the point entirely. Water or coolant coming out of the tail pipe in a white plume is not smoke, it's steam. Both of you guys reffered to white steam from the muffler as smoke. Steam is very distinguishable from smoke. This is also not a nitpickey point. It's a very important distinction in diagnosing engine ailments. This is ASE 101, brother.

Both of you guys are wrong. White or blueish SMOKE is oil burning. White STEAM is coolant. There's a un-mistakable smell and dissipation rate between burning oil and steam. Oil smoke lingers and stinks like burning oil. Coolant steam dissipates quickly and stinks like coolant. White or white with a bluish tint smoke, that stinks like burning oil, out the pipe on first start-up in the morning is valve seals.