Warren
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Posts posted by Warren
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Sometimes it's best NOT to build a replica car...
You know THAT had to be embarrassing...
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In Georgia, you don't need squat...takes about 30 seconds...they assign a VIN and give you a little VIN placard to attach to it. They don't even look at the trailer. You don't even have to bring it there to get the tag.
Alot of people go buy pre-built trailers and register them as home-built because the ad valorem tax is only $12 on a home-built and it's a percentage of the price paid if you register it as pre-built. This might not be true in ALL counties in GA, but here in Cobb, they don't even want to see it.
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Still gonna take money and a place to work on it. PASS...you'll be better off buying a driver, not a beater. Just my $0.02 worth.
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Did I lose something in all of this or was the original question not pertaining to how to ADD the gap, not delete it completely like the G-Nose does? Talk about a post doing a 180...
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Thanks guys. I just took my time and made sure it came out the way "I" wanted it to.
Doc - you missed this part...
I have some engraving material here, normally used to make engraved name badges and thought it might come in handy for something. Well, it did.
Then again, I failed to mention that it's plastic, black on one side and silver on the other, and yet for some reason, I'm the one who doesn't get the part about the "walmart greeter"...
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Well, after alot of pondering, tinkering with different materials and tossing ideas around about what to do with the stock shifter cover on my car, after getting the shifter mounted in the stock location and trying NOT to reinvent the wheel, I finally decided to act on one of the thoughts. I have some engraving material here, normally used to make engraved name badges and thought it might come in handy for something. Well, it did. After moving the shifter indicator to a digital readout on my dash, I just had to do something about the fugliness that was left over. It took about an hour to shape the little bugger to get it just right, but it came out great as far as I'm concerned. Keeps the stock look, but cleans it up a bit. Here are the before/during and after pictures.
Now I just need to remove and respray my console with some semi-gloss black as I did the surround and it'll all match. Excuse the cables shown, they get tucked away in the end. They're for my SDS programmer and the LM1.
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Well, I'll say it again, if there's nothing else inside the ZX holding up that Caddy, those B-Pillars are pretty damned strong.
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I put mine there so I'd know what temperature the exhaust was as it was entering the turbo, collectively from all cylinders, just as a general reading so to speak. The idea was to know the turbo was seeing. This also comes in handy when leaning out the motor during long cruises on the interstate to know when you're getting a bit too lean, even with a wide band O2 onboard.
As far as it interfering with the flow, it doesn't really stick down into the airflow as far as you might think, so the disruption, if any, is slight.
With regards to parts breaking off, or being injested into the turbo, it's unlikely, as the part that is in the airflow is more or less solid, as shown here:
That's not to say that it hasn't, doesn't, or won't happen, but I've never personally heard of it.
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Mine works great right where it is in this picture.
Put a rag into the exhaust manifold throught the opening, stuff it in far enough that it won't get caught in the drill bit...drill and tap your hole, remove the rag and it takes all of the shavings out with it. None get anywhere near anything that would be hurt. Use a shopvac to vacuum out the manifold if you're really paranoid.
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If that's real and there isn't anything holding up the Caddy other than the ZX's B-pillars, it looks like they're pretty strong.
Has to be photoshopped as their shouldn't be any shadows on the caddy...
(edit: Well, there's always someone smarter than me...EXIF data doesn't lie, whatever that is).
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Here's an idea, let's put one next to a golf course and put the end of the track turn around adjacent to a neighborhood. Only Bruton Smith could get away with that.
Aerial shots of zMAX Dragway at Concord, NC under construction
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The kit that MSA sells is a different one than the Specialty Products sold. The slotted washers would seem a little more trusting than the offset ones that tend to rotate like the specialty products ones do from time to time. But, I'd suggest welding the washers into the holes you cut with the hole saw, otherwise they're likely to rotate just like the SP ones.
Keeping the tension on ANY of these that can rotate is a problem in itself.
IMO, slotting the crossmember mounts is still a better way to do it.
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Good question...although I just checked their (K-Mac) catalog (online) and it shows a rear kit for $320 US... seems really high for what it is. I can see now I'm gonna be making some of these kits if they're selling for that much...I can probably make them in stainless for that kinda money.
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SPC (Specialty Parts Corporation) used to make a rear camber adjustment kit for the 510/ZX. As of about 3 years ago, they're no longer making it and have no parts left over to assemble a kit from parts. Good luck finding one. I've successfully used the "front" kit on the rear of my ZX, but it's a royal pain in the arse to install and if you don't have their particular hole saw do install it with, you're gonna be basically pissing in the wind. Best to use the slotting method shown on the 510 site. I used to have the link to it, but no longer have it. I think it was found through "Dime Quarterly" or something like that. Wish I could be of more help, but until I remove a good set of rear adjusters and have them duplicated, I can't be. Maybe I'll get working on that since I have 2 sets in the rear (toe in and camber)...I'd have to pull mine apart to do it though, and I'm really not looking forward to doing that.
Warren
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Question was: Is this the fastest z? 1000 hp ...
1QUICKZ ran a 7.86 at 176 in his 1100 hp V8 Z, but it's not streetable.
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240Z's didn't have emission controls, so there won't be a carbon canister. The microfiche shows a rubber hose on the back side of that vent, going to the top of the tank. As far as it locking and unlocking with each push & pull, it's probably supposed to free float and has a bunch of garbage collected in it after all these years. I can't imagine them putting an open/close type vent on the 240Z, unless you put it in the closed position after you flip the car to avoid dumping fuel out...hehehe
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Nothing more than a fuel vent from the tank...it's actually part of an assembly which includes the filler neck opening. There should be a rubber hose attached to the back of it (inside the fender) that goes to the top of the tank. It allows air to enter the fuel tank so a vacuum isn't formed as fuel level goes down.
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Good catch JT1...I wasn't even looking at that...yes, the old metal ring (seal housing) has to come out before you can put the new seal in. Also, when you install the new parts, they're only supposed to be pushed in FLUSH with the outter surface, not all the way in as far as they'll go.
Use a seal puller or a simple LARGE screwdriver to remove the old parts...they probably won't come out too easily as they're a pretty tight fit.
(I edited/deleted my above entries to keep the thread cleaned up. Sorry for the confusion)
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Subscribe to the threads you like, using the "Thread Tools" above and next time you need to find them, simply click on "Subscribed Threads" in the "Quick Links. Done.
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A little imagination, alot of work and alot of money...keep in mind, I'm running the GM 2004R transmission in my car behind the L28. It reads PRN12DO because of the reverse pattern manual valve body. Pretty neat not to have to wonder which gear it's in, especially with the manual valve body. Look through the steering wheel in the top picture and you'll see the interface box (with all the green LED's on in)...that picture was before it was all put together, during testing. None of that shows now.
But this thread is about the fuel gauge. I wasn't a fan of the full sweep gauge, but since that's all they make, in the fully programmable style, enabling you to keep the stock sender, it's what I had to use. Perhaps later on, they'll come out with some short sweep ones and I'll change it out.
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They came out with the Sport Comp version about 2 years ago...Other face types came out a little later. I've had mine for quite a while...finally put it in and it works fine.
here's a crappy pic of my ZX Autometer dash...
A little closer... Notice how the idiot lights still work? (The Sensor indicator, top left, now lights up blue for the high beam, but it's not on in the pic) Also note the Dakota Digital shift indicator (the red P) where the bulb check/coolant check indicator used to be. The fuel light is on because the car isn't running, it still works properly when the fuel level gets to about 1/8th of tank.
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Guys, don't panic...the DNI stuff took place during the printing period, after the close of submissions into this issue...it'll be in the next one. Can't speak for the SEZ stuff though.
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Need to contact Scottie GNZ ASAP
in Non Tech Board
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