Warren
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Posts posted by Warren
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Here ya go...if you can live with a 2 1/16" gauge..I have the "Sport Comp" version in my car and it works perfectly.
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This may or may not apply to your circumstances, but from past experience, backfires from my engine have been caused by lean conditions. Noticing that the default programming values for Engine Temp show a value higher than 0 in the top 3 temperature ranges, and the sample maps provided with the system show an even higher value in those ranges, it might be a heat soak condition. Taking that into account and reading the latest SDS Manual, it states:
Some engines like a little additional fuel when hot starting to compensate for hot fuel in the fuel rail due to heat soak back conditions. Extra fuel can be added until water circulation brings the engine temperature below this threshold. If you are doing this be sure to only enter numbers above the engine temps which are in the normal operating range.
To check if this is a the problem with hot starting your engine, use the rich/lean knob to see if it's looking for or wanting more or less fuel at those high temperatures. Adjust the Engine Temp values accordingly.
This is just a suggestion for troubleshooting the issue and may not provide you with a reasonable solution, but it's always worth a try.
Warren
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Totally different lock on a 78 than an 81..78 mounts in the door, not the handle, and operates a mechanical slide using the tailpiece...not a rod like the 81. Most times, it's either the rubber sleeve on the end of the tailpiece that gets worn or the latch assembly in the door needs to be adjusted.
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Bartman,
Unfortunately, your car is too old for Nissan (or much of anyone else) to be able to track the key code by VIN. The code, however, should be stamped into the passenger door lock housing itself.
The glovebox tags were a good idea, but unfortunately, not permanent enough and were discontinued by Nissan in 1986, however, the code number stamping still exists even in today's vehicles (the ones that even have a passenger door lock that is).
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Dollar to a dime, the problem is a worn out key. Probably NOT a lock problem at all. Have a new key cut to the factory code specs and give it a try. Alot cheaper and easier than replacing anything else.
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I wish I had known about that when I had this issue
Wouldn't have done you any good, as the ZX cap is TOTALLY different from the Z cap.
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NO need to destroy ANYTHING...which is what will happen if you start prying ♥♥♥♥ off.
I'm assuming the car is unlocked. Here is the process to get keys made, if nothing has been changed on the car.
Open the rear hatch.
Remove the rear interior panel.
Disconnect the wiring for the license plate light (1 bullet connector).
Locate and remove the 2 10 mm nuts that hold the light assembly onto the back of the car.
Look on the top of the lock assembly itself, looking straight down.
VOILA! Key Code stamped into housing (1/8" numbers)...should be MXXXX, where XXXX=4000-6999.
Put it all back together and visit your local locksmith with the key code.
DONE, and nothing damaged.
As a reference:
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Yep, the black & silver was alligatored BAD, appropriate since it was a Florida car...so the whole car got stripped bare and turned white after the cancer treatment and MSA type 2 and Mustang taillights were done. Same car, I promise.
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That's the same one that was on my car when I bought it...made by Wings West... here's a pic of my car when I first got it. FUGLY! (Not any more)
Here's a link to them...it's listed in their "Polyurethane" section, but I promise, it's fiberglass.
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Have had them installed for over 2 years now. Excellent product, but kinda wasteful unless you really "need" them to adjust camber after lowering the car. Be prepared to cut the tops of the towers to make clearance for the adjustment bolts. I just used a cut off wheel on mine, but some people might want to dress them up or cut the holes a different shape. I'm presently trying to make some sort of rubber cover for them to hide all the bolts.
Warren
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Put a miniature piano keyboard to play that pipe organ you've built in the car!!!
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"hexavalent chromium"...why does Erin Brockovich come to mind when I read that?
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they use doublesided tape to connect them. nice to see another colorado z
Wrong...those use 2 plastic tabs in the back that go in where the adjustment screws for the headlight are. Look closely at the rear side in the picture. They use only 1 metal tab in the front which must be screwed into the headlight bucket. You "could" use double stick tape to hold the metal mounting tab, but it's more than likely to let loose pretty quickly. I remember buying the last set of "clear" ones the guy had and they showed up totally crushed in the box. Thanks, USPS idiots. Those also use a solid gasket, that fits all the way around the cover itself like a rubber band, not the cheap split one that the MSA covers use and fall off.
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So much for a cute dog playing with a robotic throwing machine...
Surely that 4 legged spider is NOT was was intended to be shown here, but that's ok too. Not the first time a post has been sidetracked.
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You talking about the chrome plate that holds the T-top in on the inner edge towards the middle of the car?
If so I'd call those anything but rare... I sold a set a long time ago to... I think 80LT1. At any rate I could pick a pair or TWO every week if I wanted to. S130 cars are plentiful around here.
NO, I'm talking about the rubber body side seal that goes from the base of the A-Pillar, up it, around the T-Top opening and back down the B-Pillar. Find those for a decent price...it's like pulling teeth. Surely they can't be as expensive in Japan.
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You're not gonna believe this one.
http://www.break.com/index/cute-dog-plays-fetch-with-himself.html
Somebody either had WAY too much time or their hands or they're one of those Rube Goldberg fanatics... I'd need 3 of them.
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You can simply CUT the old belts off with a pair of diagonal cutters if you like, unless you need them for something. but there is no need to even remove the cooling fan...simply loosen the pulley bolt on the tensioners and then loosen the adjustment bolt on the tensioner (the long one that you can see go past the back side of the tensioner pulley itself)...remove the belt, working it passed the fan (one blade at a time). Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget to re-tighten the pulley bolts. Simple.
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How about looking for some body side S130 T-Top seals...or something else that's NLA in the states from Nissan, like that heater cock (water valve) or something like that.
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You need a steering wheel puller and installer set to compress that (well, not really need, but it sure makes it alot easier to reinstall the steering wheel). It has a piece in it that threads onto the end of the shaft and a spanner that goes on that, then you turn the thumbscrew to compress it (the steering wheel must be in place to do it)...They're available from most auto parts stores for under $20...
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Guys, don't get me wrong, I'm not KNOCKING the aluminized exhaust system... They'll do just fine for a LONG time. It's just that I just had made and sold a bunch of stock turbo outlet flanges made from stainless... Kinda ironic that this post would come up.
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"Aluminized Steel" = PASS
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Autometer DOES make a programmable fuel gauge...not in all faces yet though. I have one and it works perfectly, was easy to program...short 2 wires together at empty, fill it, short them again, and that's it. DONE. It doesn't care what resistance your sender uses...
Also, I was the one who used the factory board in conjunction with the Autometer gauges. Had to jump a couple of traces that required cutting to make the gauges fit, but the idiot lights still all work. I Also added a digital shifter indicator where the bulb/fluid check thing was.
I also moved the high beam indicator to where the "SENSOR" light was.
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Strip it (comes off easily with a razor blade), sand it, smooth it, prep it, paint it and be done with it. Mask off any areas you don't want damaged or repainted. Be sure to polish it when you're done and put a good coat of wax on it when you're done and voila, just like new. Did it on mine and it's held up well.
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Since most of the fluid will remain in the pan, the fluid that IS on those parts that would be moving will COKE, then SMOKE, then your transmission will be BROKE. (couldn't resist the rhyme). Lack of circulation of the fluid won't transfer heat OUT of the tranny.
Having seen what's inside an automatic tranny (as I rebuilt my 2004R myself), and admittingly NOT being anywhere near an "expert", I can't help but agree with them...DON'T do it.
Dash Cap doesnt match Glove Box
in Interior
Posted
You could always use truck bed liner on both of them...they'd both be the same then...hehehehe