zeeboost

Okay fellas, I've been battling this back and forth. Long story short, I've been wanting to build an LSx 408 to put my Magnacharger mp122 on. Looking at other builds, I should expect to be in the 800hp range, but the torque will be instant, having roughly 85% torque by 2500 rpms. Similar build with a 404ci: I have a contact that's selling his built LSx 408 out of his show camaro for a killer price. It features: LME 408 ci iron block (late model engineering, Houston Tx) lunati pro billet rods lunati 4in crank custom wiesco nitrous pistons 4.030 bore 11/1 C.R. ARP main studs ARP 1/2in. head studs o ringed and reciever groove copper head gaskets LME ported oil pump custom camshaft(specs givin to buyer) morel hydrolic lifters AFR judson port, big bore heads hand ported @ LME(355cfm,258cfm exh.) machined for reciever groove and 1/2in head studs Dual springs good to 660lift custom pushrods Jessel rocker arms 6.0 iron block machined for 1/2in head studs,line honed,bored to 4.030,decked,o-rined stock f-body oil pan front and rear covers stock valve covers If he sells it to me he will keep the pistons, since I'll be changing them anyways to lower the CR. I'll probably be changing the camshaft as well, since it's a custom nitrous cam. He's wanting to know how serious I am with purchasing the engine before he puts it out for other potential buyers, and I told him I'd let him know shortly. I don't know if it would be foolish of me to purchase it...if I can't get it to hook with that much power, should I just go with a stock block and just add a head/cam package to yield roughly 550-600hp? Would 800hp and instant torque be too much for my little Datsun widebody project? I'm planning on running some 315s in the rear on 17x10.5 wheels, with one of the stickiest compounds I can find, but I don't know how much it will help. Anyone have any advice? I could really use it right now...

Was that with the Holset or the GT35R?

Unless my boost gauge is off, I can get close to 0" manifold pressure by revving the engine, but I haven't seen it go positive. Turbo diesels, on the other hand, I've been able to build at least a good 10psi of boost revving the engine in neutral on a 6.0L Ford powerstroke.

Correct, the engine needs to be under a load to build boost, so you shouldn't see the wastegate actuator arm moving. Way to go with the $550 pricetag - great deal! If you think it's great now, wait until you start turning the boost up

Haha, thanks

Check out the bid amount on this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-280ZX-Mint-condition-one-owner-car-two-toned-rare-car_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a3Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem330303621879QQitemZ330303621879QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks Looks like Satan has the hots for a Z I'm at work and can't upload a screenshot save - someone get it before it's too late!!!

I work at the Mac Haik Ford dealership up in Round Rock/Georgetown - I wouldn't mind taking a look at it. I'll be honest, I don't have much experience with VWs, but noises are usually generic

I thought the n/a would have an R-200 as well, but from what I researched, the automatic '83 280zx came with an R-180. Yeah, I was caught off guard when I tried to bolt the turbo driveshaft on the rear end, only to find out the companion flange was too small. All turbos came with the R-200.

I did almost the exact same swap - from an '82 turbo to an '83 n/a - both were autos. I ditched the auto for a Borg Warner T5, but still, unless you're planning on trying your luck with the n/a auto, you'll need to swap the whole drivetrain. N/a rear end is an R-180, while the turbo rear end is an R-200. This means you will also need the driveshaft for the R200, and the tranny from the turbo as well. You will need to steal the ignitor, located (I think it's part of) your ignition coil. I swapped EFI wiring harnesses and ECUs, as I found it to be pretty easy. You still will need to do some re-wiring on the '83 280zx to get everything to fire when you turn the key - it's not much, though, so don't stress it. Finally, you will need to SEARCH, a lot. This has been covered and there is a good write-up on the exact swap floating around here somewhere. I also had the aid of wiring diagrams to keep me going. It's been a good while since I've completed the swap, so I don't remember too much about it...

Gpopshop e-mailed me back, and apparently the carbon-side is supposed to be facing the thrust bearing, so I'm glad I didn't install it based on my ASSumption. The second picture is the proper way the seal should be facing, for future reference to anyone.

I'd hate to see how I earned that reputation on this forum :shock: Hopefully it's just because of my undisciplined nature, with my unprovoked cruelty and malicious attacks on other members

What I was referring to is most people (did any?) on this thread didn't ask to have a certain title under their s/n, regardless if they donated or not. They were simply assigned. Sure, a supporter could request their own, but what fun is that?

You still don't get to choose. It just...happens....

Correct, I have both, and I can tell you the 2+2 is different.

I feel like an idiot posting this, but I can't remember for the life of me how the old seal was installed. I'm rebuilding my first turbo, which is a turbonetics t3/t04, and this is about the last thing I need to install before I reassemble everything. So, does the carbon seal face towards the compressor wheel: Or towards the thrust bearing: I'm assuming towards the compressor wheel...? I googled for pictures of this, but the other turbo rebuilds I found used a different compressor seal type.

Thanks again for the information, fellas. I would like to bring some of this stuff to the owner's attention, but then I'd feel that it would be insulting to him, or I'd offend him trying to advise him on how to do his job.

Yeah, I can't understand why it hasn't sold yet...I mean, the dash is still "good"

Better jump on this one before it's too late http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1000367665.html

I talked to the owner today, and he still insists I should give the paint a little more time to cure. According to him, most to all of their paint jobs have those lines, and I'm not the first one to complain about them, but then after a few weeks they fade out. Anyways, he told me if they're still visible come next Monday, then to bring it in and they'll re-spray it. I told him that if I drop it off with them again, I wasn't going to pick it up until the paint was lineless, so to speak. He agreed, and said that they would most likely sand the paint and let it sit in the sun for a few days to help it cure...he said that's what they did in the past and it always helped to expediate the process...? I don't know if I agree with everything that was said, but he was very respectful and courteous about my concerns, and had a positive attitude towards everything, so I'm hoping this will turn out okay. Guess I'll have another update in a week

I've seen a couple of skyline awd setups in S30s, but they also used the RB engine/tranny. I don't know if you could work something out with the LSx setup...

Looks like a recent picture; there isn't oil dumping out creating a cloud of smoke.

I'm just trying to learn as much as I can about it before I confront them, so the more I know, the merrier. BTW, I researched this body shop, and they had only positive reviews on the net. Plus, I've seen other cars that they painted, and they all looked really good. I'm pretty disappointed about this one.

It's a base coat clear coat, and I don't know what brand they used, but I'll find out. The paint is the factory 307 blue that this Z was originally painted.

1) I really don't want to wait a month and a half before I bring it back to him, and 2) I don't see how the paint will continue to spread across the hood after several weeks - that's why I asked you guys and other professionals about it.

Thank you for your feedback. I'm going to try to talk to them about it tomorrow. I'm not sure what course of action to take if we can't come to an agreement. It's a two-stage paint, by the way. There are other little imperfections here and there on the car, but they don't really bother me the way these tiger stripes do.