Jump to content

Fridge Gnome

  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Fridge Gnome last won the day on June 23 2019

Fridge Gnome had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Fridge Gnome

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/14/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

680 profile views
  1. Depending on how many electronics your car is going to be reusing, I didn't find it too bad to just get rid of everything except the lights from the old harness and then make wires for everything new. Although I don't have many accessories installed in mine. I believe there is a color wiring diagram available for the 76 as well that should make it easier to dig through it.
  2. I do love it. That was a fantastic and fairly easy and cheap mod. It definitely has slightly different left and right bias, but its not very noticeable for me. I'll fix it next time I'm under the dash. Makes parking a breeze and doesn't seem to be twitchy on interstates either.
  3. Hopefully you don't mind me adding my experience today. Didn't use anything except the saturn vue column and a 77 280z column. I figured a few more pictures of different setups in the thread is always helpful. I cut down the saturn telescoping joint so it would fully collapse and removed the thicker bottom portion of the female portion as well as turning it down about 1mm so it could pass through the datsun bearing at the firewall. Making it collapse fully let me just expand it to whatever length I needed without worrying about measuring the section behind the power steering motor. Then I could weld the original u-joint to the saturn telescoping joint, and pass the whole thing through the original firewall mount after grinding down the welds. Because the power steering motor was free in the rear, it wasn't as solid as I would like. Particularly the steering wheel could have tilted up because it was only held in with the two mounting screws under the dash. So I added an extra brace that seemed to stiffen it up nicely. Washers are a little sloppy I know, but it works and lets me adjust tension. All back together, doesn't stick out too much. I did remove the control box and bolted it to a thick aluminum plate as a heatsink under the dash. Seems to work just fine, haven't had a chance to drive it, I'll update tomorrow.
  4. Glad to hear thats a normal amount of play in the diff. It still confuses me a little that if I can make the diff clunk with my hand that it wouldnt cause a problem when its connected to the engine? I have all new bushings on the car, including the transmission mount and control arms. That seemed to cover a lot of the things listed in the faq thread. Thats why Im still looking at the diff even though I know its usually not the culprit. The transmission is out of the car right now and didnt notice any play in it either. Ill see if I can find anything else tonight.
  5. I'm trying to find the source of my rear end clunk in my 280z. I have the R200 diff with the improved front mount and new bushings on my mustache bar. Bolts going into the mustache bar are tight. I'm getting a clunk whenever I accelerate or decelerate. It's only one clunk. My U-joints don't seem to have any play in them. I've tried them in and out of the car and don't see any play in them. The only thing I can find is in the attached video. The driveshaft flange going into the diff can rotate some with the ebrake engaged. It makes an audible clunk if I turn it hard enough. Is this a normal amount of play here? Or can I assume this is my problem and I need to start looking in the diff? DiffPlay.mp4
  6. Ignition! Chickenman went though my tune and for some reason I had it in my head that the cranking rpm was the rpm I wanted to crank at, instead of what the megasquirt should expect. I had it set as low as possible, so megasquirt thought the engine was running instead of cranking. I also had a low cranking dwell and too high spark duration. I also swapped out the spark plugs with 0.032" gap ones. It runs rough but hopefully I finally have a stable starting point for tuning now. Thanks for all the help.
  7. Thanks for the reply. Coil is an Accel SuperStock 8140C, I've check primary and secondary resistance on it and they appeared to match specs. Spark wires are Taylor 8mm. Spark plugs are ngk iridium and the gap is around 0.041". I've played with the dwell some, but I did not notice any impact while cranking. I might be confused with the condenser, I had read in a few places that it could cause a weak spark. The car itself is a '77 (77 body, 83 engine swap), so had a condenser attached, I didn't know the 83s had no condenser. I attached it to the "negative" of the coil. I will try switching to larger wire on the coil primary wiring. I had used the wire from the megasquirt diy wiring harness, which I believe is 16 or 18 awg. As far as grounding, I remade the large grounding wire that runs along the passenger side of the engine bay with 10 awg wire. The original one appeared slightly corroded. I remade it with all the same connection points, including the one on the firewall. The MS is grounded to the engine block at the same point as that large grounding wire. I removed all the vacuum lines from the car and deleted all the original mounting points on the intake manifold, so I don't have that point available. I will double check my grounding for the optical sensor today as well. I've attached my current .msq. 2018-06-03_09.53.06.msq
  8. I have a 1983 L28ET, with Megasquirt 2 V3.0. I'm using direct coil control and have IGBTIN wired to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN. BIP373 is installed with mica insulator. I'm having trouble getting a spark while cranking. I have always had issues with a weak spark and the car running rich when it would start up in the past. Although being able to get the car to start was intermittent. (Car is still a project and has never run well enough to put on a road.) I have used output test mode with one spark plug connected directly to the coil and get a good purple spark that way. However, with the spark plugs out of the engine I am not seeing any spark while cranking until I let off the key and then sometimes a spark or two will appear as the engine is still spinning after the starter is turned off. I am getting about 11v at the coil while cranking. This is the only difference I can see between output test mode and cranking. With output test mode I have about 12.4v at the coil. Is 11v too weak to produce a spark? I have a new coil, distributor rotor and cap, spark plug wires, condenser, and alternator (internally regulated). I do get an RPM signal in tunerstudio when cranking. Although I have the crank rpm set to 200 and the tach in tunerstudio is reading around 350 rpm. Is this abnormal? I'm running out of ideas as to what the issue could be. My next option is to just start throwing new parts at it and I'd rather not do that blindly. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Create New...