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Fridge Gnome

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Fridge Gnome last won the day on June 23 2019

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About Fridge Gnome

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  • Birthday 10/14/1995

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    Knoxville

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  1. I also used the vue setup with the bruno box, and my dad uses one of the toyota ones in failsafe mode. We both used bits of the original column though. Both seem to work fine, with the toyota one just not being adjustable, but the failsafe assist seems to be about right anyway. The vue seems to be a little biased to make turning right easier than left, but there is trims on the control box to fix it if it ever was enough to bother. The lack of self centering has never really bothered me either.
  2. One last thing, the hood just barely fits, but probably wouldn't without modifying the engine mount to let it sit lower. Maybe if the engine was further back it might be ok, but that would still require modifying the vacuum pump flange or the engine mounts to allow the engine to move back further on the mounts. The aluminum foil on top of the throttle body is the room I had left. You can see the foil in a couple other spots was pretty close as well. I had to rotate one of the intake pipe hose clamps as it was just barely touching the hood.
  3. I haven't done it, but I haven't heard of anyone putting extra reinforcement on the car while installing them. If you're rails aren't gone already and the roof is in good shape I would think it would be fine. I mostly have read that people find their chassis is crooked already and have to force things to line up for the new rails. If you are concerned you could always temporarily weld some steel tubing across the door frames and between them as well to be sure. I've done that on a convertible MG.
  4. I used an 140A alternator from a cadillac deville. Needed a little modification of the alternator mounting points, but not too bad. Holes are in the same spots, but the mount is too thick iirc. Autoparts stores sometimes have them in stock too. edit sorry, I'm thinking l28 alternator mounting points, not sure if they are the same.
  5. Ok, so things went much easier than I feared. I only had one small issues in my wiring harness. I had wired in one wrong O2 sensor. I've updated the doc I posted. Exhaust went in without issue. That was my first time back-purging and welding stainless. It doesn't look great, but its leak free and shouldn't rust. E Everything else went in fairly straightforward on the hardware side. I had a driveshaft made, dropped it in and was able to get the car moving. All in all, not much different from any other LS swap. On the ecu side I had a little more t
  6. Could Bobby or Edna be from the transmission mount bushings? I would guess its from something else or not original, I don't think any original parts had finish like that.
  7. I like it, it was a nice way to paint the dash with something that had texture after I did crack repairs on it. Its different than most dashes that have caps on them or spray-painted which I wasn't a fan of at all. It's super easy to put on, takes way more of the flock than I expected though. I had to scoop the leftovers up off the plastic I had laid out to finish the whole dash. I think I ordered two packs of it, I'd recommend three. It does show lint and stuff, but not bad and you can vacuum it with the little brush attachment. Durability wise its not bad, I've scraped it getting
  8. With no stitching I would guess flocked too. I used it on my dash, much cheaper and easier.
  9. Exhaust manifolds are in! Modified camaro headers did the trick. Unfortunately this also means I have to show everyone my ugly welds. Regardless, no major issues in getting them made up. I also installed a catch can. Due to the direct injection on these engines they are prone to having gunk build up on the valves since there is no fuel constantly washing them off. Going to get started on making the rest of the exhaust tomorrow.
  10. Quick trip home, got a little work done. Clutch master cylinder went in with no issue. Nothing too exciting there. Swapped the push rod for the 280z original one and went in fine. Corvette accelerator pedal is in too. Made an adapter to use the original pedals mounting points on an aluminum plate. The plate is fairly thick, so it doesn't flex. I had to space the pedal forward about 0.4" as it doesn't stick out as much as the original one. On the more interesting side, I bought some 2016 camaro headers to see if they would work on the Z. Pass
  11. Small update, wiring harness is in. I modified the original harness based on the attached document. Grey lines are the connections I used. Not sure if it's right, but I'll try to remember to edit it if it's wrong. I actually made the harness at school, while the harness was in the original state I marked the location of connectors on a cardboard box and used that as a template to modify the harness to place the ecu inside the cabin and use a new fusebox. 2018 Gen V l83 Pins.docx
  12. I used TTTs weld on setup and it was fairly easy to do. The strut tube is decently easy to weld to. Perches weren't that hard to cut off with an angle grinder. Getting the tubes off the car to work on is probably the worst of it. I can't really comment on what is comfortable though, I went with a fairly stiff setup.
  13. Here is the picture of the modified engine mounts, you can also see another reason I couldn't move the engine back. The vacuum pump flange on the LT block interferes with the mounts so the mount has very little adjustment to move the engine back on the driver side. I would assume it would be possible to modify the mount to fix this, or maybe even trim off the vacuum pump flange. I made up a transmission mount and got it installed today as well. Its bolted to tabs welded to the frame rails. Here is where the shifter sits with the GTO shifter. No interfer
  14. Good to know Richard, it looks like the shifter is a little forward of where it was with the old transmission, it would work where its at with the camaro shifter I believe. I'm hoping with the GTO shifter it will be just a little further back as I'd like it a little closer to me than the original position. Forgot to snag pictures of the modified mounts, but I was able to drill new holes in the engine mounts to lower the engine about an inch. From the fender line I'm about 2.25" over, so maybe that will be enough. If not, I should be able to make a spacer to move the throttle b
  15. I got the engine in today, I'm using the Dirty Dingo motor mounts and I'll be making my own transmission mount. So first difference between this engine and an LS. It has connections on the back of the engine for the high pressure fuel pump. This means it can't get as close to the firewall as an LS. Theres plenty of room in the front, so engine position is no big deal, however I assume LS engines do need to be near the firewall to allow the transmission to fit around the original transmission mounts. Since I couldn't get this engine too close. I had to cut th
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