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Fridge Gnome

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Fridge Gnome last won the day on June 23 2019

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About Fridge Gnome

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  • Birthday 10/14/1995

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  1. Could Bobby or Edna be from the transmission mount bushings? I would guess its from something else or not original, I don't think any original parts had finish like that.
  2. I like it, it was a nice way to paint the dash with something that had texture after I did crack repairs on it. Its different than most dashes that have caps on them or spray-painted which I wasn't a fan of at all. It's super easy to put on, takes way more of the flock than I expected though. I had to scoop the leftovers up off the plastic I had laid out to finish the whole dash. I think I ordered two packs of it, I'd recommend three. It does show lint and stuff, but not bad and you can vacuum it with the little brush attachment. Durability wise its not bad, I've scraped it getting it in and out of my car a couple times and one spot did get the fuzz knocked off. I'd suspect you could do a spot repair though.
  3. With no stitching I would guess flocked too. I used it on my dash, much cheaper and easier.
  4. Exhaust manifolds are in! Modified camaro headers did the trick. Unfortunately this also means I have to show everyone my ugly welds. Regardless, no major issues in getting them made up. I also installed a catch can. Due to the direct injection on these engines they are prone to having gunk build up on the valves since there is no fuel constantly washing them off. Going to get started on making the rest of the exhaust tomorrow.
  5. Quick trip home, got a little work done. Clutch master cylinder went in with no issue. Nothing too exciting there. Swapped the push rod for the 280z original one and went in fine. Corvette accelerator pedal is in too. Made an adapter to use the original pedals mounting points on an aluminum plate. The plate is fairly thick, so it doesn't flex. I had to space the pedal forward about 0.4" as it doesn't stick out as much as the original one. On the more interesting side, I bought some 2016 camaro headers to see if they would work on the Z. Passenger side needed some work, but I think it is manageable. I made two cuts along the inside of the header to let me bend the header in slightly to get it to fit inside the frame rails. I will have them welded back up. Also removed the flange. It comes out directly above the tension rod mount, but I think I will be able to cut it a little shorter and have enough room to turn the pipe and get around it. I also had to remove the plastic connection cap on the starter solenoid. to make a little extra room. Drivers side fits pretty nicely except for the same issue of the tension rod mount. Again I think I have enough room to route around it.
  6. Small update, wiring harness is in. I modified the original harness based on the attached document. Grey lines are the connections I used. Not sure if it's right, but I'll try to remember to edit it if it's wrong. I actually made the harness at school, while the harness was in the original state I marked the location of connectors on a cardboard box and used that as a template to modify the harness to place the ecu inside the cabin and use a new fusebox. 2018 Gen V l83 Pins.docx
  7. I used TTTs weld on setup and it was fairly easy to do. The strut tube is decently easy to weld to. Perches weren't that hard to cut off with an angle grinder. Getting the tubes off the car to work on is probably the worst of it. I can't really comment on what is comfortable though, I went with a fairly stiff setup.
  8. Here is the picture of the modified engine mounts, you can also see another reason I couldn't move the engine back. The vacuum pump flange on the LT block interferes with the mounts so the mount has very little adjustment to move the engine back on the driver side. I would assume it would be possible to modify the mount to fix this, or maybe even trim off the vacuum pump flange. I made up a transmission mount and got it installed today as well. Its bolted to tabs welded to the frame rails. Here is where the shifter sits with the GTO shifter. No interference in any gear, so I'm happy with where it's at.
  9. Good to know Richard, it looks like the shifter is a little forward of where it was with the old transmission, it would work where its at with the camaro shifter I believe. I'm hoping with the GTO shifter it will be just a little further back as I'd like it a little closer to me than the original position. Forgot to snag pictures of the modified mounts, but I was able to drill new holes in the engine mounts to lower the engine about an inch. From the fender line I'm about 2.25" over, so maybe that will be enough. If not, I should be able to make a spacer to move the throttle body away from the water pump which will allow me to flip it upside down.
  10. I got the engine in today, I'm using the Dirty Dingo motor mounts and I'll be making my own transmission mount. So first difference between this engine and an LS. It has connections on the back of the engine for the high pressure fuel pump. This means it can't get as close to the firewall as an LS. Theres plenty of room in the front, so engine position is no big deal, however I assume LS engines do need to be near the firewall to allow the transmission to fit around the original transmission mounts. Since I couldn't get this engine too close. I had to cut them off. I'll likely still try to use them as a mounting point for the transmission, but the original flanges wouldn't work. Once those flanges were cut, the engine went bolted in without any interference. I haven't made a transmission mount yet, so time will tell if it will be a problem, I don't think it will be though. That being said, the Dirty Dingo mounts are rather high with this setup. I'm using their adapter plates to use LS mounts with an GenV engine. I'm also using the Holley oil pan, so it has quite a bit of clearance. Clearance is good, but the engine sits a bit high. I'm using a camaro intake and the throttle body sticks up too high. I'm not sure if anything else will also be too high. Headers will be interesting, but I'm probably not doing longtubes. The OEM manifolds won't work, but they aren't too far off, so I think I will be able to find something that works. Anyway, just wanted to get a thread started to at least help me keep some record of the project. Hopefully will finish up a few more things while I'm on break.
  11. Hey there, there's no genV forum, so I assume this is the right spot. I'm getting started on swapping an L83 out of a 2017 Silverado into my '77 280z. Progress will be slow as I'm working on a masters away from the car right now, but I figured I'd post what I've gotten so far. Info seems pretty scarce on these engines as well, so maybe someone will find it helpful. I'll be keeping the engine stock and mating it with a T56. Here is what I'm starting with: Here is the engine and transmission, T56 is out of an 06 GTO. The L83 is a bit weird and the crankshaft is not meant to accept a manual transmission so requires a 3/8" spacer on the bellhousing (not shown, but where the gap between tranny and bellhouwing is. Apparently leaving that out will result in a broken block 😕
  12. Depending on how many electronics your car is going to be reusing, I didn't find it too bad to just get rid of everything except the lights from the old harness and then make wires for everything new. Although I don't have many accessories installed in mine. I believe there is a color wiring diagram available for the 76 as well that should make it easier to dig through it.
  13. I do love it. That was a fantastic and fairly easy and cheap mod. It definitely has slightly different left and right bias, but its not very noticeable for me. I'll fix it next time I'm under the dash. Makes parking a breeze and doesn't seem to be twitchy on interstates either.
  14. Hopefully you don't mind me adding my experience today. Didn't use anything except the saturn vue column and a 77 280z column. I figured a few more pictures of different setups in the thread is always helpful. I cut down the saturn telescoping joint so it would fully collapse and removed the thicker bottom portion of the female portion as well as turning it down about 1mm so it could pass through the datsun bearing at the firewall. Making it collapse fully let me just expand it to whatever length I needed without worrying about measuring the section behind the power steering motor. Then I could weld the original u-joint to the saturn telescoping joint, and pass the whole thing through the original firewall mount after grinding down the welds. Because the power steering motor was free in the rear, it wasn't as solid as I would like. Particularly the steering wheel could have tilted up because it was only held in with the two mounting screws under the dash. So I added an extra brace that seemed to stiffen it up nicely. Washers are a little sloppy I know, but it works and lets me adjust tension. All back together, doesn't stick out too much. I did remove the control box and bolted it to a thick aluminum plate as a heatsink under the dash. Seems to work just fine, haven't had a chance to drive it, I'll update tomorrow.
  15. Glad to hear thats a normal amount of play in the diff. It still confuses me a little that if I can make the diff clunk with my hand that it wouldnt cause a problem when its connected to the engine? I have all new bushings on the car, including the transmission mount and control arms. That seemed to cover a lot of the things listed in the faq thread. Thats why Im still looking at the diff even though I know its usually not the culprit. The transmission is out of the car right now and didnt notice any play in it either. Ill see if I can find anything else tonight.
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