PUSHER

Diamond racing wheels, yes.

Right after I posted that thread I went outside, stuck a crowbar inside of it and hammered the outter wheel bearing out, inner still wont budge, but atleast I got the stuff inside. So now all I need to get is an inner bearing. I didnt really encounter any rubber seals, so where is that and where does it go? There might be one on the outside of the innerbearing I cant tell if its part of it or not though. EDIT: omfg thank you for that site.

So any way to get either the inner or outer bearing off so I can get to the stuff inside short of disecting it with a plasma cutter?

Alright I searched and found that removing the wheel bearings is gonna be a pita. So, what are the parts that I need? My other strut housing is completely bare and all I have off the old one is the stub axle, the other side of the stub axle and a nut that ill replace.

I'm trying to transfer over the stub axle and bearings from one strut housing to another. I've gotten the stub axle nut and stub axle out and only have the bearings left. Is there an easy way to get the bearings out besides taking it to a shop? Or my other plan is to just buy new bearings, but what else do I need since I cant get the original off? Do I just need a outerbearing, spacer, rubber seal, innerbearing? Could someone give me more technical names then spacer or rubber seal so I dont have to spend a couple hours explaining what I need from autozone. Thanks. This is on a 76 280z rear strut housing.

double posted, delete one of them. Sorry, thanks.

This is on a bent strut housing, I went to a junkyard and got another one but it is missing all the parts in the center. So I'm trying to transfer this stuff over. Where do I start, because that is a beefy nut, and I cant fit a screw driver in there to bend it into a circle.

ball joint seperator from autozone= the win. Thanks guys, I have another question that ill need to get pictures of to explain so stay tuned.

Guess Ill go hunt down a pickle fork and see if autozone has/rents out a balljoint seperator. -Ummm, drillbit and selftaping screws, didnt want to mess with glue and Im not going to mold them in.

Kinda got confused where you started talking about the cotter pin. The bolt and and the cotter pin are off. Its just the threaded part sticking through the hole. I have tried to hammer on the threaded part down. Have also tried to pry between the strut assembly and the tierod to get it out with no luck. Dunno if this is what your talkig about or what. Appreciate the replys.

Any Idea how do get the tierod end off of the strut assembly? No amount of hammering is helping. Or would it be easier to disconnect it from the steering rack. Thanks. 280z 76 if that helps.

buy a prescription of riddlin and focus on one thing?

Sounds like the l24 you have could have a pretty high compression which could have some trouble with the boost if not tuned properly.

Where would you get oil for the turbo?

I wouldnt really waste the time. I'd suggest one drift event on stock everything, when your sick of bashing your head and knees around you'll relize you need allot stiffer springs.

Ive been to 3 or 4 with my z a while ago. Same as any other car. Stiffer springs with appropriate shocks, lsd and a seat should get you started. People have drifted with wheel adapters before. might find this car interesting http://www.davescholz.com/public/davey.html My suggestion, buy a 240sx, s13 or s14 if your looking at a drifter/daily driver.

Where did you get the manifold? Did you make it? if you did would you be able to give the specs? cost?

I wont lie, I frequent honda forums allot and they're latest contibution (beside homedepot garden trim lip) is to use motorcycle itb's on their motors. The really ghetto ones they make, they just cut up their stock intake at the runners and fit on the throttle bodies, weld up some support, and use the stock location injectors. The people with fab equipment buy a flange, have the runners straight and evenly and space out. They then machine the itb's injector location to fit theyre original injectors for better mixture of the fuel and air. After looking at the stock intake manifold on a l28 it doesnt look like the ghetto option will work because the outter runners are to close together for the itbs.(yes you would have to buy 2 sets and cut them up) So I'm guessing you'd have to cut it after the injector hole and weld on the appropriate sized tubing and weld it on at angles to get the itbs to fit on properly. I dunno, was just tossing around some ideas. Trying to keep efi(megasquirt) with a na motor but know that the stock intake manifold is basically 6 straws connected to a lawmower's throttle body. Looking for a solution that is about 400-600 with somewhat minimum fabrication as ill have to get it welded somewhere else. Here are some examples of diy itbs. Here you can see the chrome spacers used to evenly space out the throttle bodies. Here are some on a m20(?) 325i engine And finally someone that angled the runners instead of spacing out the injectors.

Im guessing rising rate fuel pressure regulator, ups how much fuel pressure there is as boost goes up. BOV=blow off valve. Boost controller controls max boost.

dangit, wheres the rest of that story.

Do you mean that n42 head on a f54 block needs larger valves? Dont think thats right, unless I missread your post.

Whens the houston d1 drift event? Ive taken my z to a couple of tx drift events, havent gotten to any grind ones yet.

300zx na or turbo? seems 280zxt and 300zxt are equally hard to find.

good side: bad side: Solution is an unbent strut housing, which means a new control arm unless you want to mess with the pin. No real reason to take it to an alignment shop as there isnt really anything that can be adjusted.

One of my strut housings are bent and caused this, I have a post on it but not sure if I can get to it.