240zdan

Amazing project! How you guys make any profit of sort of this is crazy. The asking price must be very high. IMHO, a stock refreshed rb25 would be great. A built rb in a Z is pointless unless its running some seriously wide, sticky rubber... whoever buys this car will be buying it for the all around performance. I see you have upgraded the brakes and suspension.. very nice. I recommend a stock rb25 with the basic upgrades (arp, good clutch, etc) it will be running at 400hp+ all day long. I have a stock rb26 running 450+ and plan to push it further. Nissans are very stout and a built motor will take away from the oem drivability and comfort. try to run this beast on stock cams so the customer will experience a nice idle and good off boost response. gt3076r comes to mind for a turbo. please post pics when done... its an amazing start to a beautiful car.

just a fyi an iphone does a decent job if you can findd someone with one. program is called ihandy level

the oem 4 lug hub can be used. redrilling 5 bolt hubs to 4 bolt is easy and takes a few minutes. you will need to machine the bore of the disc rotor on a lathe as well. this will save you from buying new wheels. i have my gtr rotors and calipers, as well as cusotm adaptor brcket all ready to go for my oem 4 lug hub. (gtr should be similar to z32) i know youre converting to 5 lug but just throwing the info out there...

driveline vibes suck! I still have them at 140+ think im just going to give to a driveline shop.

yes. go with the gtr lsd, hands down the best compromise between durability and weight. plus its CLUTCH lsd, no viscous crap

well youd have to use abs sensors front and back. then use a unit like this http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Aftermarket-Traction-Control/A_1121/article.html

the r230 uses a 230mm ring gear so id have to say no imho a r230 is overkill

i still havent installed my gtr brakes but plan to in the near future so i will keep you guys updated. cant wait to feel the stopping power!

looks great so far, begninning to a very very long journey lol

It would also be sweet to utilize a traction control device using the oem abs brake sensors hahaha

You want the r32 GTR diff. It uses 6 bolt cvs and has clutch lsd. The Q45 kit shoudl work great! Although I just redrilled my moustache bar and made my own front mount. You have to cut two brackets off the top of the diff too for clearence but thats no big deal. The only thing is the input flange... I used a s13 input flange that I had to machine to fit the seal. Im sure a q45 inout flange would work though. (r32 uses 6 bolt cv axle instead of standard u jointed driveshaft) for axles I u sed 6 GTR CVS and machined my own 4140 axles but the modern motorsport q45 units shoudl work here. same goes for stub adaptors. The clutch LSD hooks very nice and the 4.11 is perfect this is the diff u want

i just stated i have a 1 bar cap on the rad my overflow just has a simple bleeder

im not trying to doscourage you, but resin is the "glue" that holds the glass together and is a absolute PITA to sand. If you want to make smooth fiberglass parts the best would be to smooth out your dash and then make a mold, using gelcoat. then make a "cap" using gelcoat as well. Then it would be UV resistant and you woudl have a nice smooth surface. But intergrated that into the stock dash would be difficult. You can see where Im going with this. Really if youre trying to just smooth out the dash, id use bondo... although I dont know how that would stick to the vinyl dash surface.

what exactly are you trying to do with the dash there? I have two dashes in storage both are way better condition than that one, i could sell them for cheap if u want. yours is pretty much a write off and the fiberglass will be a PITA to finish off nicely dont you think? Unless you plan on heavily coating it with some sort of gelcoat to smooth it out but even that i can see it being messy wth lots of sanding... Did you ever consider wrapping the dash with suede? That would hide alot of flaws and give you a racey look...

mine is one quart and works great. im using a 1 bar stant cap and mishimoto 300zx rad Make sure your overflow tank actually has a tube running to the bottom of it so the fluid can be drawn back into the rad.

r32 GTR LSD! Best diff by far you can put in a Z car 4.11, clutch lsd, usually low milage too...

nice work how is the por15 holding up? i find it peels off very easily on non rusty or fresh metal....

GTR front 4 pot and GTR 12" rotors in the works May be selling kits to adapt these and z32/gts calipers to s30's Here it is compared to a willwood 11" civic kit The gtr brakees are heavier obviously but they shoudl have the stopping power I need for 500hp

those numbers dont mean anything. i dynoed 310whp with a stock rb26 running 11 psi on a stock ecu not trying to brag, but alot of the hp ratings are way off for these motors

im guessing around ~380whp

11.8 @125mph, street tuned rb26 with apexi power fc djetro 13 psi and custom gt35r. need to get her on a dyno and bring up the boost to 15 psi. Going to see if I can break the 130mph barrier and run a 11.49 on streets, need to upgrade the braeks badly haha. Can barely come to a stop at the end of the track! Just thought id share

there are plenty of ways to prevent your car from getting driven away. preventing it from getting towed away is another story though.

The old acura/honda 6 cyl ones work great and are MUCh easier to get

i ended up changing the diff but when i took it out i noticed the seal was crushed. i installed a s13 input flange before machining it back and i believe it crushed the seal. thanks for the help!

Ok I will try removing the seal then. And this is a shortnose GTR diff with CLSD. How can i tell if it has a crush sleeve? Look in the manual?