Scott_M67

I'm looking for a set of NOS rocker panels for a 77 280z, I dont care for the way the TABCO panels fit.

Have you sent the photos to Ross yet, how come those brackets look like cast instead of the MM billet brackets?

It is not uncommon to use solid steel for high performance clutches in differentials. The friction material found in some OEM and aftermarket disks just burns up or comes apart in these applications, that why solid steel is used.

Hi Gary, I sent you an email looking for clutches. Scott

Just go to Napa and get a replacement section with the fittings as close to length you have now. Otherwise you can buy the end fittings and tubing and rent the flaring tools from Autozone.

Its been awhile since I replaced the floors and the battery tray section but last weekend I finally got around to cutting off the roof and removed the drivers quarter panel. Both the roof and quarter had such bad repairs done to them the filler was way too thick and cracking. Fortunately I was able to come across a NOS production quarter panel and it fit like a glove. Now to get things cleaned up, aligned and welded back together. This weekend I'm seperating the donor roof skin from its roof section and getting that ready to install.

Here is the only pic I have on my desktop. This is the passenger side of a 280z, you are looking at the inside of the firewall, about 10" up from where the floor pans attach is a row of three brackets with nuts on the back, same as on the driver's side, what are they for?

The '77 280z we bought had a partially stripped interior, on both the passenger side and driver's side about 10" above the floor there are three small brackets in a horizontal row with 10mm bolts. Can someone tell me what they are for, I'm guessing some kind of carpet retainer strip?? TIA, Scott

Thanks for the reply, so far I've found Napa and Beck Arnley have some of the bushings, probably the same supplier. I have not stopped into Nissan to see if they still carry them though.

Hi all, I'm looking for some input based on your experiences with poly vs rubber mounts. How many people have installed poly bushings and then regretted the excessive road noise and increase ride harshness and squeaks even with the silicon grease? I've read through Jim M's suspension sticky and my understanding of this topic is that poly bushing may be beneficial in some applications but not necessarily all positions. I have my entire suspension removed and have media blasted everything and I started burning out the old bushings in preperation for either installing black graphite poly or new rubber bushings. I also have a set of the MSA Eibach progressive springs and Tokico blue strut inserts for our '77 280z project. About 20 years ago I used a few poly bushings on GM cars, specifically Corvettes and the squeaking and harsh ride drove me nuts. Currently based upon my reading, starting with the front end I will be installing poly mounts for the steering rack, a poly steering coupler and sway bar bushings and links. The ball joints and outer tie rods are new parts by Moog. The wheel bearings are new Timken. The T/C rods are getting new Moog rubber bushings. The bump stops are new KYB rubber and as for the lower control arms I'm leaning towards new rubber bushings. The trans mount will get new rubber bushings. The front differential mount is a new Nissan rubber mount and I plan on adding a "Ron Tyler" mount to the topside. The mustache bar is a tricky one, the old rubber bushings really move around but help isolate differential noise from the car. As we all know the rear mounting on these cars isn't the best so I'm inclided to go with poly mounts for the mustache bar to help firm this area up and hopefully some dynomat on the inside will help with any differential noise. I'll be running a CLSD from a '87 turbo. Does anyone have a recommendation either way for the mustache bar? The rear sway bar bushings and links are again black graphite poly. The rear wheel bearings are new Timken. For the rear A-arms I'm undecided and would like some input, does it make sense to use rubber on the outer and poly on the inners or vice versa, all rubber or all poly? The reason I mention new outers is based upon a statement in the Energy Suspension notes that says "you may need to sand the new spindle pin to fit our inner sleeve". I'm not really inclided to do that to a new pin so I'd rather use new rubber bushings and get the correct fitment. TIA, Scott

Look how hot you got the metal when grinding, its blue. Instead of a grinder use a cut-off wheel and nip away at your excess material to get the majority taken off, then very lightly use a 40-60 grit flpper wheel on smooth it out.

Thanks, I can buy Brembo's locally so the rears are not a problem, but I'm looking for some quality front rotors. I thought I read that Silvermine sold Mountain rotors with some of their 240 kits.

Any idea where they are made, most rotors are coming out of China these days.

Does anyone have any experience with the "Centric" premium brake rotors or the "Mountain" brand rotors. I'm upgrading to the 300zx brake rotors and Toyota/240sx calipers and shopping around for rotors. Brembo only makes rotors for the rear which is too bad. TIA

Hi John, I jusr sent you an email. Regards, Scott

Current price there is $6/each.

Personally IMHO I don't see anything special about that cam but all the specs aren't shown either. Let me say that typically a split duration cam like this 241/251 is used to make up for poor exhaust flow or use in a stock head. IMHO you would be farther ahead spending money on port work to achieve the best I/E ratio and utilize an exhaust system with as little back pressure as possible and run a single duration cam like a Racer Brown 325R with 254 degrees duration @.050". You could try calling Rebello Racing and see if they have a cam similar to it or at least get another opinion. The best way to duplicate that cam is to shell out the ridiculous $1,100 and make master profiles from it.

I think what you are going to find Josh is that each cam company has its own established tried and true master profiles that they use and they will do their best to meet your needs. It may be a matter of calling multiple cam companies to find a profile close to what you want. If you can not live with that then what it comes down to is paying for a machine shop to create your master profiles for both the intake and exhaust. Those two custom profiles could run you up to $500 to build for a one-off cam so it comes down to a matter of how much do you want to pay for your custom cam.

THe deal woth POR 15 is that you need to top coat it as soon as it gets almost dry but still tacky otherwise nothing sticks to it.

Thanks for the help.

I cut the floors out of my parts car and used them in the one we are building, you've got the parts why not use them. Then again it depends what your plans are for the '73, get rid of when you are done or try to rebuild it too. Next I need to install the new Bad Dog frame rails.

Hi all, I've checked out the group buys for rims and looked around for wheel/tire threads but I really can't find the solid information I'm looking for. I'm not interested in installing greater than 8" wide rims and flares. I'm looking for some suggestions on wheels and a tire combo that will fit a 280z running toyota front calipers, MSA springs, and fit inside the wheel wells. I'm assuming this leaves me with a 7"-8" wide rim in a 15"-17" but what offset and tire size would be best. The Sportmax 002's look like they may work depending upon tire size, instead of the 225s most guys are installing I wonder if a 215 would provide more clearance. TIA

Thank you very much Deja.

Hi all, I'm going to swap over to the 280zx master cylinder as part of our brake upgrade. The rebuilt 280zx master cylinders I've priced are without reservoirs, does anyone know if the 280 ones will fit? TIA

You could call Top End Performance in LA, http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html, closer to you in Lomita is Bob Sebrings Service Center, Bob's a top notch engine builder but primarily muscle car engines.