Scott_M67

HI, I'm looking to buy a complete SDS EM4F system in excellent used condition. Thank you, Scott

I would use Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy primer, best deal on the market. Now with primer you have a "X" day window to top coat, typcially 3-7 days depending upon manufacturer, if you go beyond that 7 days you will need to scuff the car down with red scotch brite pads, re-shoot primer and then topcoat.

As already stated the location has nothing to do with the color, the body work underneath has everything to do with it. BC/CC is the most forgiving for a garage paint job.

Given the fact I paid $650 for a new NOS rear quarter I'd say grab them and run.

To prepare your car for primer, either use stripper or sand the car with 80 grit. Most epoxy primers require 80-120 grit for best adhesion and will fill 80 grit scratches just fine. Spray can primer more than likely will have to come off before you apply a real automotive primer to it or you may have solvent compatibility issues. The same goes for the rust preventer you are applying, not all epoxies or primers will play well with it. Its tough trying to do this job well and still drive the car since any primer you are now applying will be contaminated with road grime and need to come off before shooting the entire car, and primers are not UV resistant like the top coats are.

You said you wanted a cheap way to do it, do you have a die grinder and burr bits, dremel tool, or even a rat tail file and you can do it by hand.

Here is a pic of the 2+2 rails. How does $40 sound plus whatever shipping comes to. Scott

I've got a nice set of 2+2 drip rails.

I agree, I would DA that car with 80 grit down to clean metal and shoot epoxy primer on it, NO spray cans.

That is an awesome looking Z car, Atomic Orange is one of my top favorite colors. My rear valence is beyond repair, I cut it off just after the step down from the tail lights. I dont think I can get these two curves right and will need some help from someone or have to get a shop to roll me this piece. I'm hoping to talk my son into a shaved rear end but he is asking to help put a 240 rear bumper on this 280. Just means more work relocating the bumper brackets since the right side bolt interferes with the body around the filler neck and of course reinforcing the new panel in order to mount the rear brackets. Might have to try the MSA rear panel, not sure its cut high enough though.

I might give it a try, not sure, steel is cheap so all I can do is try and maybe screw it up. I sent you a PM

Has anyone rolled their own rear valence panel? With the compound curve it seems like one would need to use an English wheel or be really good with a bag and hammer.

How much of the column do you need, I have bare bones column, no plastic or switches

Are these the bezels you are looking for, I just removed them from a '77 2+2?

Also try Dash Restoration USA.

Nope, you will have to send yours out to be recovered and it runs close to $1K.

I saw your car at Speedware, great looking seats and install. I've been debating on having the stock seats reshaped with extra foam or going with S2000 or 350z seats myself.

You don't give your location, or if you want to use Single Stage or BC/CC. What kind of primer is the car in, are you past the top coat time window or will you be shooting a new fresh coat prior to the top coat? You mention base coat is $400 so do we assume you are shooting BC/CC. Is $400 for a gallon, if so that is probably more than you need to shoot a "Z" once you add in reducer and catalyst. If you want a decent Single Stage for the money you can use PPG Omni but you have to deal with dust for about 30 minutes. A better catalyzed Single Stage is PPG Concept and is out of dust much quicker. If you are shooting BC/CC a great high solids clear coat is Universal Clear from Southern Polyurethanes, about $200 for a setup to do a car. I would also consider using their normal reducer and water borne cleaner.

I've been too busy to work on the Z but I managed some time this past week to get some work done. Both rockers and a dogleg repair and I have the Bad dog frame rails in now. I'm going to try to get the new driver's quarter panel squared away this weekend and deal with the litle bit of rain gutter rust I just found. Also trying to decide if I need to remove these extra brackets in the engine bay to clean things up since I'm not using the AFM any longer. I think it would really clean that area up by removing them.

Does anyone know if you still need to use the grill support bracket located on the bottom of the core support of a '77 when you install the MSA 2 one piece? The bracket was badly damaged so before I weld a replacement on I'd like to know what others have done. Picture shows bracket removedl. Thanks

This is a picture of the engine bay in our '77 project, since the car will be getting a l28ET and the Z31 ECU and MAF I thought it would be good to remove any brackets that are not needed. Does anyone see any reason to keep the AFM mount stuff? Thanks for the input.

I thought I would ping you guys to see what brackets would be good to remove from the engine bay of a '77 that is getting a L28et and Z31 MAF install. I'm thinking I should remove any brackets for the aircleaner and the AFM and clean that area up, can you guys think of any others that aren't used in the swap? Thanks.

Hi all, I'm looking for a set of the inner fender support braces for a '77-'78 280z. Thanks, Scott

Has anyone figured out the proper way to wire in the later model 02 sensor for use with the 87-89 boards. Do you just use pin 24 for the 02 signal and then ground one wire and provide power to the other wire? Thanks