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Noll

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About Noll

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    Eastern Ontario, Canada

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  1. Makes sense! All depends on what your goals with the car are. The wheels on my car are Rota Kyushas in 15x8+0, although there are a good few options in that size from various brands. Not sure on the weight unfortunately, but they didn't feel super heavy when I unboxed them. And yeah, I feel you on the serviceability front, my car had been sitting over a decade and was in terrible shape when I got it (no joke, the only exterior panel I haven't replaced is the roof, and have done floors, rockers, seatbelt mount areas, half the firewall, much of the engine bay, etc), so I was basicall
  2. In fairness, in that hypothetical situation (trying to just upgrade the brakes) none of the latter is required. 4 lug 15" wheels work just fine with the 4x4calipers/300zx rotors (14" might just fit depending on the wheel but no personal experience), and as mentioned above the bias works out nicely with 240sx calipers in the rear and deleting the stock drum brake bias block (or a aftermarket bias adjuster is really no biggie to add). No need for 5 lug, beefier axles, etc unless you're making way more hp than stock, and 5lug won't massively change backspacing unless you're completely
  3. Looking good! If you find you still don't have the desired height, if you happening to be running T3 camber plates, they make 1" riser blocks that drop right in: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/riser-blocks-camber-plates
  4. @AydinZ71 Aha, that makes sense. Easy enough mistake to make, good thing the culprit was found. We've all been there with one thing or another I'm sure. It shouldn't be TOO much of a pain to fix as long as you have the old cutoff sections still; if you have an old stock strut insert lying around, it can be handy to put it in the housing as a guide as you weld to make sure it all gets welded in straight (just make sure to drill a hole or something to make sure there's no pressure in the old strut first; compressed gas and heat isn't good for obvious reasons).
  5. Out of curiosity, how much did you initially section out of your struts when you shortened them? The full extension of the strut shaft dictates max droop travel, so depends on the length of the strut body and how far the shaft will travel in it. I followed the guide here, cut 1.5" from the fronts and 1.75" from the rears. Used 240z front struts in the rear and Toyota Ae86 rears in the front (IIRC anyway, I can dig up specifics on my build thread over at Ratsun if desired). http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2011/04/how-to-240z-ground-control-coilovers-w.html This plus getting
  6. I'll try and have a look soon, it's likely to be $$$$ though from canada due to the length of the panels.
  7. FWIW this is what the OEM guards looked like that came off my 260z. I won't be using them (going to delete the mount holes as at least in my case they ended up being rust traps); I'd offer them to you but I'd imagine shipping from Canada would be $$$$. Fatter end towards the front, p/s shown here IIRC:
  8. I was the guy who bought it that Six_Shooter is referencing; unfortunate that it ended up like this, but at least I've been able to get some parts out of it, and can't complain for the price I paid. That said, if anyone wants what's left for some reason(I'm taking doors/windscreen/trim off it) - basically shell, rear diff, rear susp, and the mockup engine that was in it, I'd be happy to let it go for scrap value. Roof and possibly spare tire well are still good. (otherwise I'll cut the roof off and save to use/sell at some point).. Couple more pics of its current state:
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