JMortensen

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2005+Modern+Motorsports+Prototype+Control+Arms+Proven%2F&pic=IMG_3647.jpg The way these adjust is by loosening the jam nuts and moving the rod end, then tightening the jam nuts again. What I don't know is if the rod end screws into the arm, or if it just slides in and is captured on each end by the jam nuts. I think it just slides, because if it screwed in you wouldn't need the jam nuts on both sides. This particular arm is on the car adjustable and you wouldn't have to remove the spindle pin to change the track, but you might have to cut the end off of the front rod end if it was too long and interfered with the control arm as John mentioned. Doesn't look like there is much room there. The bad part about this arm IMO is that it has a LOT of threads in bending, and it uses rubber outer bushings. The threaded section is pretty huge IIRC, like 7/8" so that makes it stronger, but still not my favorite design. Camber plate is a better way to do what you're trying to do IMO.

If that big flat pan is going to stay, I'd suggest you do an X on the top side. Leave the bottom flat as possible, then look to do a diffuser in the back. You might have some trouble with your driveline components getting hot in there.

Still looks to me like the left side bracket is on the right side.

Or for the other perspective, read the threads from "blainefab" over at corner-carves.com and TUBE IT UP!!! I think the worst case scenario is a cage with tubes that don't add stiffness to the suspension pickup points, tubes that go to the middle of an unsupported span (your door bars), or tubes that have bends that don't need to be there at all. To my mind this is much worse than making it "too stiff". As a victim of TFS (tubing fever syndrome) I can say in retrospect that if I were to do it all over knowing what I know now, I'd have about the same number of tubes, might even have more, but they'd be more efficiently used. A lot of cage design in a Z has to do with the spring rate you want to run. Higher the spring rate, the stiffer it needs to be. As to checking what is really necessary, that can be done by measuring torsional stiffness as described in "Think Fast", but it's such a PITA I think I'd rather have an extra couple lbs in tubing. Run really thin diameter tubes for the "extra" stiffener tubes to keep the weight down. When I built my cage, SCCA was just about to redo the specs for tubing size, and there was some questionable language in the solo II rules regarding roll bars. Figuring that they were going to go up in size to increase safety, I built my 6 point with 1.75 x .120, then added the stiffeners with 1.625 x .065. They decided to go down to 1.5 x .095. Oops. If I were to cut the cage out and start over, I'd do 1.5 x .095 for the main part and then 1.375 x .049 for the stiffeners. I bet I could do the whole new cage for the weight of the 1.75" part of my existing cage...

Haven't seen the kit, but it sounds like you need to flip the brackets from the R side to the L so that you can install the calipers forward. If you have the calipers installed towards the front, I don't think you'd have issues with the strut tube, since it is in the back.

You'll also have problems with halfshaft length, especially if you were going to go with Z31 CV's. If you got my shafts, then you could get about 3/4" of range before the CV's bottomed. I might be able to do a shorter set. Really though, I'd suggest camber plates first.

Have you tried wolf creek racing? Todd has a lot of parts in stock and is a good guy to deal with.

Remove by tapping the cap against the CV shaft (moving the outer cv race towards the inner). Light taps will pop it right out. Reinstall by tapping back in with a mallet or small hammer.

I think 1/2" would be enough. I'd probably go 3/4". I think you need to take one set of balls and spacers out after you remove the end of the shaft. Check to be sure.

14 3/16 and 14 13/16 are the correct measurements for the entire length of the shafts. 27 spline.

I believe they run stock brakes or early 280ZX. Greg Ira would know for sure, he's the most successful EP Z racer in the country. I've seen him here but I think he frequents www.classiczcars.com more, so you might sign up there if you're not already a member and PM him. EDIT--screen name "gira"

I'm not putting the flanges up for sale until I actually get them in hand. If the cap that you're talking about is the silver cap at the wheel end of the CV, that cap is keeping the grease in the joint. I'd pound it a little flatter and reinstall it. If it is actually broken, I don't know where you'd find one except off of another CV shaft, which may be hard to come by.

The ring gears all show a ratio. It's in the middle of a big string of numbers, and it will say something like 39:10 (3.90) or 39:11 (3.54). That is the correct cover. John should be able to work with that diff. The axles appear to be the Z31T shafts. They are the good ones IMO. Joe at Chequered Flag has the MM adapters, I've got some in the process of being machined, will have them just after the new year according to the machinist. Mine will be a little cheaper. You really should get my short CV shafts too, flipping the cages doesn't work. The stock Z31T CV's bottom on a 240. More info here: http://forums.hybrid...xle-discussion/ and http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103391-z31-axle-swap-r200-clsd-m2-differentials/ I'm pretty close on the group buy which will save you a little $. http://forums.hybrid...afts-group-buy/ The you can clean up the CV's and check the races for pits and the balls for chips. A little bit of pitting on the races is acceptable. If the balls are chipped, you'll probably want to replace the joint (which in this case means find a new set of used axles).

It has been discussed before. VERY bad idea, because prop valves aren't proportional. They have a knee in them so that the harder you push on the brakes the less pressure goes to the side with the valve in it. If you put it in the front brake circuit, then when you really stomped on the brakes you'd get more and more rear braking vs front. Not good. More info: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/proportioning-valves

Similarly I got better results out of stock fronts and early 280ZX rear disc than I did with Toy 4x4 calipers on the front. With the Toy calipers I actually removed the prop valve and still had way too much front bias. One other thing you guys might look at is whether you can fairly easily put a different caliper with larger pads or pistons on the mount that you have.

Your 87 diff should have 12mm holes, so no problem there. Be sure the KAAZ takes a 29 spline CV shaft. If it does, I I think you're good to go.

Steve Parmley's site has most of the IMSA Z's on the internet (old ones and new ones): http://sites.google.com/site/zlalomz/imsagtuz

VLSD in the Pathfinder would be in the rear diff I think. That's a solid rear axle, H233B. Not real familiar with Pathfinders, but I would be surprised if they put an LSD in the front diff.

It's going to be a shortnose diff, so the gears won't swap out. It would be a PITA to use the diff. Probably a lot simpler to get a trans with OD.

I would just button it back up and run it. 45 lbs is plenty considering you have the more aggressive ramps.

Thanks! So actually I had the JCR part wrong. I thought they were using an adapter that got bolted to the pinion flange and then the stock rear flange. In actuality it looks like what they're selling is pretty much (exactly?) the same as what JTR sells.

Double masters won't give you more braking power per se, but it will allow you to set the bias correctly. If you're running pizza cutters in the front then maybe you might want more rear bias than you could otherwise get, and in that case the duals make sense. Also, if you had very little vacuum the booster might not do anything at all, in which case the duals might be better in that you could pick a smaller master and get more braking power for the same pedal effort (with the side effect of longer travel). Really the thing to do is find a calculator that estimates the size of the master that you should run front and rear based on caliper piston area, brake pad size, rotor diameter, etc, and then you'll see if the front and rear sizes are so far off that you might need duals to get the bias that you want. The problem again is that most of those calculators are designed for road racers who have big tires in the front. If you call Tilton and give their tech support guys all of your parameters they can give you estimates for where to start on master cylinder sizes. They've been in the business so long that I'm guessing they'd have estimates for drag cars as well. All that said, John's kit is really nice in that you don't have to modify a stock pedal box and cut holes in the firewall, etc. The Tilton masters come with reservoirs and I'm sure the Wilwoods and other similar ones do too.

Do you have a pic of the JCR adapter? Just curious if it's what I had envisioned.

You know, it doesn't look as bad from that angle.

Weird. Looks like you have a kind of intermediate diff there. It's not the same one that bjhines has that was sold as the Power Brute which had the thrust washers, but you do have the more aggressive ramps and no spacer like the 300ZXT. 4.38 is probably the Skyline diff and I think those were supposed to be more aggressive, so maybe it shouldn't be that much of a surprise.