JMortensen

I don't see the pin length as a problem. The rod end is going to push on the shank part of the bolt.

I made sure my camera had mic and camera inputs just for that reason (that's how my buddy does the mountain bike vids--lipstick cam on the helmet), but I figured I already have the camera so I might try that first. I had visions of a microphone by the fuel cell to get the exhaust noise and a lipstick cam in the radiator duct, dead center. Really should probably be focused on just getting the damn car together, but I found a for sale ad on the I/O port mount and was going to do it just because it was a good deal.

Yes, those pieces of wire in between the clevis are the "hairs" I'm referring to. Not sure where I got that term from, but I believe it is the correct term. When you mig weld the wire comes out of the welder gun. If for example you miss the piece entirely and hold the trigger down, the wire just keeps coming out. So if you have an inch of wire hanging out of the gun and then you touch it to something close to the gun it welds at the base and you have an inch long "hair" hanging off of your piece. Usually they aren't really all that stuck on and you can just brush them off. You normally don't get hairs if the wire hits the tip on the part you're welding to. That's how mig welding is supposed to work, so usually the wire just melts and becomes part of your weld. You can get hairs that way, but the WHOLE hair gets red hot and ends up bending. To me the hairs on your part look like the wire came from the outside of the clevis through a gap and were left there after the weld was done, which I interpret as a sign that 1. there was a gap there, and 2. this is crappy welding. I'm not an expert on welding.

EXACTLY what I was worried about. I think fabbing my own is going to be the way to go. Thanks.

That's what it looks like to me. Cary obviously disagrees, but that's what it looks like to my eye. EDIT--Otherwise why are those hairs coming THROUGH the welded area? Might happen if you had the welder cranked up to 11 on wirespeed and the material was really thin, but the other welds don't look like that was the case and the matierial isn't thin. If there was a gap there, the wire can go right through and then hits, and then you'd be left with the hairs inside the clevis area. Speaking as a novice welder who has seen my share of crap like that when welding rusty Datsun bodywork, that's what it looks like to me.

Or this one: http://img14.imageshack.us/i/conquest005.jpg/ Yours shows the hairs better. This one shows what looks like an awful long weld between the clevis and the arm.

Hmm... that doesn't sound like a very good endorsement... I think I'll keep looking. Thanks John. I appreciate not wasting money.

There certainly are a lot of hairs in the middle of the clevis if there was no gap there, and if you were to cut the round piece off and leave the rest, the weld area looks very wide. The odd thing is that I don't think the position of the clevis is that critical, but I believe they were working off of Myron's jig and I'm guessing that's why they felt a need to keep the dimensions and fill the gap between the clevis that was cut too short and the rest of the arm, rather than just weld the clevis against the tube directly. That's my SWAG anyway.

Mine is a tape drive, and I bought it because the HD cameras have a tiny little armature that writes to the disk, and I have friends who have had trouble using them for mountain bike vids due to vibration. Solid state would be the way to go for sure, but my camera isn't that new. Are you saying that you wouldn't use the I/O port because it has a poly bushing in there to isolate vibrations? What are you using?

Looking at the Go Pro camera mount on ebay for about $30 vs the I/O Port mount for $100+. The I/O port certainly looks more stable, does anyone have any experience with these? My camera is a Canon HD DV and probably weighs 2.5 lbs. Suspension will be STIFF and g's will be high...

No problem. Just to reiterate my position though, my bar was about 4" behind the seat, and you really should put some padding on that thing.

Scanning the webpage quickly again it is readily apparent that you have the right idea. The purpose of the tire is to get a better contact patch while running the neg camber. I disagree that you couldn't swap different angled tires without matching the suspension angles. Seems to me that you might have a situation where a car handled better with more angle on the tire or more angle on the suspension. SWAG is that it would probably have to do with how much body roll the car had and how stiff that outer sidewall is, but for instance if you were running a Porsche Cup car that runs 5 or 6 degrees neg camber you might still see a benefit from these tires, even if the camber was set higher than the tire was designed to compensate for. I suspect that tire temps and wear would still be the way to set this up, rather than trying to match the angle of the tire.

Just to be contrarian, I ran the autopower bar with no padding and did many track events and many autoxes and never had a problem in tech. POC, NASA, our local autox club, nobody ever even said anything about it. Now if it were a roll cage I wouldn't expect the same treatment, but for a bar that is entirely behind the seat (mine I think was mounted a little farther back than the one in the pic), no problem IME. I did have that nagging feeling that I should put padding on it, and my boss told me to put padding on it, but nobody who teched the car ever said a word.

I'm guessing not. Hint: 310 is a Los Angeles area code.

Myron's was the original. The clevis can be "fixed" by adding a strap of metal to the back side to connect the two tabs and make it one piece. The idea of machining a clevis is way overkill IMO. Most pre-made clevises are one piece of metal folded up to make the clevis. You can see the strap I welded to my strut tower bar clevis here. I did this on both sides, obviously you can't do that on the control arm piece because it would interfere with the link: The major issues I see are the weld quality and it looks like that clevis wasn't the right size so they just added the round pieces to fill the gaps. I would think that the welds could be ground down/off and redone and the clevis could cut off and replaced and you'd have a usable product.

Forgive me for being dense, but why would this be any different in terms of loading the bearings and suspension than actually running 2.5 degrees of neg camber? I realize the contact patch would be flipped from what we're used to dealing with. And yes, tires with lots of neg camber don't get loaded just right and get the contact patch flat until you're right on the limit, but we still set the cars up for that, because it results in lower lap times. The rest of the time we're braking and accelerating on trapezoidal or triangular contact patches and it still works out better in terms of lap time. Only downside I can see is that it might have some really bad camber thrust, but I think a standard tire with lots of camber can have that problem too, albeit in the opposite direction. I'll stick with regular tires and adjust the angles with the suspension, but I fail to see why this is purely a joke and wouldn't have any practical benefit. What am I missing?

My brother in law has a bunch. Email MatM@m2differentials.com.

I hate to say it, but I've done stuff like that welding bodywork. I had a big gap so I put a nail in there and welded it in. It looks like that round piece is filling a gap. Not good on a suspension part IMO. Nice idea, poor implementation is the best thing I can say about what I'm seeing.

I made some of those myself. Pretty easy actually. Run slicks with way too soft springs and not enough camber. Pretty soon the tire is a cone shape like a worn out skateboard wheel or a cambered tire. Never bothered flipping the tire on the rim though...

Don't know the answer, but I'd suggest a call to the DMV. They have to have dealt with this before.

If we're talking about the Mustardo again, I think as has already been pointed out that the "tardo" part is accurate.

True, but what is that really saying? It ain't 1975 anymore. A new V6 Camry would smoke a new 240/260/280Z in every category if you could use a time machine to transport one back to the 70s. We're here because they need help, not because they were the penultimate car design.

Agreed. Newer Mustangs aren't the Fox bodies from the 80's and 90's any more. Even the Fox bodies can be made to handle pretty good with some mods, and it's not like the Z car was that great a performer out of the box, right? If we are honest about it, we are all reading Hybrid Z because the stock car kinda sucked...

That was my next fun fact. When you're shooting level you have to compensate more for bullet drop than if you're shooting up OR down. This time I'll keep my crappy wording out of it. http://www.gamecalls.net/huntingtips/upanddownshooting.html

You got me. Drop the brick when you take the shot should have been the wording, as far as the drag coefficient, that's why I picked a brick and not a quarter. Don't think it would make enough of a difference to cause a miss.