JMortensen

Also, I would have responded when you first posted if the title wasn't "I need your advise". I am changing your title to something more descriptive. Please put better titles on your threads in the future.

I would suggest you replace the diff when you install the 5 speed. A 3.90, 4.11, or 4.38 diff would go best with those carbs, lower is better but it kinda depends on how much rpms you can tolerate on the freeway. I'd try to find a 4.11 or a 4.38 if I were you, but I'm probably on the aggressive side of what is acceptable. NA ZX trans has closer gear ratios and will suit your triple setup much better than the T5 or 240SX swaps suggested, or the 280Z 5 speed for that matter. When you buy the trans get the collar for the throwout bearing that it came with, and get a 280ZX pressure plate as well! The 4 speed pressure plate and throwout bearing collar is a different length and won't work. The rest of the stuff (flywheel, throwout fork, clutch disk, driveshaft) are all interchangeable.

I bet you'd find it if you searched...

That graph doesn't reflect my experience. Mine was an unheated, single wire Bosch O2 and it read pretty consistently after about 5 minutes warm up time. I ran it for months, so I think that I would have noticed if temps really change the output on the sensor as shown in the graph. Dual carbs, get a 3 into 2 header (Nissan Comp) and put an O2 in each collector.

Eppy, you've been getting some very generous responses to this point. Now it's time for you to do a little research by yourself. This site is full of a ton of info about these swaps. You just need to search it out and read it. Please avail yourself of the info on this site.

Voltage range on a NB is from 0 to 1V. I can't remember all the values right off the top of my head, but 13.2:1 is about .8V. I think, but I'm not sure, that stoichiometric is .5V. You can find all the values online if you search. So I just tuned at WOT to hit .8V. You have to deal with the refresh rate on the display of your voltmeter, so you have to do a lot of pulls. Still, if you stick with it long enough you'll get it pretty close. I had the voltmeter in my car for a couple months, I just opened it up whenever traffic would allow and watched the meter, and pretty soon I had things dialed in a lot better. I wasn't worried about mileage or any of that. A lot of people say that a NBO2 only tells lean/rich, and I think most of them have only watched the voltage signal on a FI car at idle. They do cycle back and forth like that, because at idle FI cycles between lean and rich. On a carbed car, or at WOT on a stock FI setup the O2 doesn't cycle, it will read a consistent voltage (unless of course you have a lean or a rich spot somewhere).

I've had good luck with NB, but I'm tired of fighting this fight. You can search narrowband O2 and find one of the many previous threads where I've said what I did, how much it cost (less than $40) and how it compares to WB in the experience of a couple friends of mine.

So if the hole is at an angle then the design has changed.

Aftermarket control arms are lighter? I thought we figured out that this was not the case previously. Rear control arm weighs 8 lbs... how much weight are you really going to lose there, and at what cost? There are other reasons to get the control arms, but if you're looking to save weight I'd say save your $$$ and "drop the kids off at the pool" before you get in the car. Same effect... For a cheap solution, strip the interior remove the sound deadening, burn the sound deadening off the bottom of the car, light weight seats, Lexan windows, light weight battery. Remove dash and heater. Ditch the bumpers if that's legal where you are at and you want to take the risk. You can lose a decent amount of weight with those things. Next up bang for buck wise is FG hatch and hood. Fenders are 11 lbs stock, so again, not a good call to replace them as far as return on investment.

Looks like Dave changed the design a bit. Maybe there were problems. Is the hole drilled at an angle??? What does the other side look like?

Really? I can't see that from the photo on their website. Do you have a picture to show what you're talking about?

They look nice! Just wanted to know if you did anything differently than me. It looks exactly the same.

Why so sensitive Mike? Geez... "Reality" being that there is no CV transmission for an L series...

Back to reality and the L series, the thing that I see that bugs me about a lot of turbo builds is when guys put a bigger turbo on but leave the stock cam. The bigger turbo can build more pressure at higher rpms, but the stock cam can't turn the higher rpms effectively. So the mismatched parts leave you with less hp than is EASILY obtainable. It's like putting triples on an engine with a stock cam. I have no doubt that the engine would make more power, but all of these parts work better, and the total power output is so much higher when they're matched to each other. There is a happy medium to be found for sure. But the L series is good for 7K rpm with no problem at all, and to run that stock cam is giving up usable rpm for no good reason in my opinion. Torque x rpm/5252 = hp, right? So I would think you'd really want those extra 1500 rpm...

The bigger the cam, the more peaky the hp and torque curves will be, and the more hp you'll get (within reason). Stock cam is very small, has very flat wide torque curve, but is limited in ultimate power output. Still, people are getting pretty respectable numbers out of stock cammed engines. For my money if I were building a turbo, I'd get a larger turbo and a larger cam and rev it higher than the 5500 rpm or so that the stocker is good for.

Phantom did a before and after. I think his gained 40 lbs in the rear, that was it.

I've had an MSD 6AL on my car for 6 seasons of autox and 40K miles total driving. Bunch of track days in there too. The only time I had trouble was when I took it off to try to read the spark plugs (carb tuning--BTW O2 sensor is a much better idea than reading plugs) and when I reinstalled it I hooked the wiring up wrong. I sent it to MSD, they checked it, it was fine, so they sent it back with a manual and told me to hook it up correctly. I reinstalled it the right way and it worked fine. I know they have a rep, but mines been good to me. A friend with a 510 that was barely making over 110 hp showed an 11 whp difference on the dyno with the MSD vs with stock Nissan EI from a later model car. If I were doing ignition mods again I'd probably go for the coil packs and a crank trigger just for accuracy's sake. I've heard that pulling a battery cable to kill a car is a bad idea, so I don't know if I would fault the MSD so much in this case as the method used for stopping the engine. Could have just pulled the coil plug or put a hand over the intake.

OT, but John, how did you do the bumpsteer adjustable tie rods? Same basic thing I did, or did you come up with something else?

I was actually going to do something like this. I started grinding out the 1 1/2" die to fit some pipe that I bought that had a 1.790 or so ID. After my first couple of bends though, I really think that the 1 3/4" tube will fit in the 1 1/4" die. It did so much better in that die than in the larger one, and the sides of the tube didn't bend at all and it wasn't able to flex out. I think it will work, I just think it needs a little more prep. I'm actually going to put this project aside for at least a couple weeks, should be working on a dual master cylinder setup pretty quick here. When I get back to this I'll try the heat next, and then heat/sand and let you all know what the results were. If heat alone would work that would be pretty easy, so long as my MAPP torch would get it hot enough. On another topic, I'm going to have some pretty complex bends in the halo bar. I'm trying to figure out how I can get them done right the first time. I was thinking of bending up some conduit and using that as a guide. Anyone have a better idea than that for me?

Should make the steering radius tighter (unless the tire hits the frame rail or the TC rod before full lock). Will also reduce Ackerman. I don't know exactly where the Ackerman is on a stock Z, I think it's pretty much 0, so you might have negative Ackerman after installing these, meaning the inside wheel doesn't turn as much as the outside wheel. Positive Ackerman means the inside wheel turns more than the outside wheel. The AZC parts don't have the twist at the end of the knuckle that the stock or Nissan knuckles do. I've wondered if that means that the tie rod could bottom at some point in the suspension travel, but I haven't seen anyone report about it yet, so maybe it's OK. You would figure that Nissan put that angle in there for a reason. The Z store parts are the Nissan Comp steer knuckles, and they are steel. My understanding is that most other countries got the quick steer knuckles as the standard equipment. You might be able to figure out who got what and have a set shipped for less than $275. I don't think that they're all that rare, just rare here in the US.

I started with them farther apart then moved them in after looking at those pictures again. I could definitely try moving them farther apart again.

So Owen you were able to get a decent 90 degree bend by heating the tube first, no sand? I have a MAPP gas torch, so that wouldn't be a problem. I'm thinking that I'm not going to be building a whole bunch of race cars so if I can make this work I'd like to. I was thinking again about the sand, and I'm thinking there are really only 6 bars that I want to bend. The halo, the A pillar bars, the shoulder bar behind the seat, and the door bars. All the rest that I was planning on will be straight. Thinking about giving it another shot with sand or heat, or both...

There were two shows on this morning. The New Zealand one didn't have any Z's, then there was one from Australia where Z's came in 3rd and 5th in the classics class. The 3rd place car was 40 seconds back from a GT40, thought that was kinda funny... just cause you have the money doesn't mean you can drive...