JMortensen

This is a body/paint question. Moving to the correct forum.

That would be a HUGE help and would make the job A LOT easier.

I thought that turbo cams tended to have less overlap and greater lobe separation angles than NA cams, even when done to the extreme. I don't have a turbo and have never bought a cam for one so I could be wrong, but that's what I've always read.

Wow, thanks for that post Alsil! Really makes me more sure of my purchase. $7 batteries would get expensive pretty damn quick!

Oh yeah, 8 gig. 8 meg...

It wouldn't be very ricey if it actually worked. For what it's worth the Mustang that I used to beat up on at the track (I was 5+ seconds faster last time we were both out @ Buttonwillow in 2000) is now posting times a full 10 seconds faster than my old times, and it now has a big ol wing on the back, and I'm pretty sure it's faster than John Coffey's ROD too. 10 seconds and faster than the ROD makes me think I could deal with the embarrassment of having a big ol wing on the back of my Z. Of course the wing is an actual racing part and is ~$1000, not a Wings West special...

Posted this before, but still my favorite Family Guy clip: http://youtube.com/watch?v=SV2Ce-GbNgY&mode=related&search=

Nevermind, I figured it out. You CAN buy an iPod adapter for the stereo I have. So I was able to get the stereo crap all together for about $220. Went with some Boston speakers. The iPod adapter was $140, they talked me into the actual iPod stuff because you can get all the accessories for the iPod that you can't for the other brands, it will charge in the car, etc. I still need to figure out what to do about the tube. I'm thinking of getting that 30amp bazooka I saw this morning, it was $99, but I don't really want to do the install (hate electronics and wiring), so maybe I'll have the store do it for me. According to the guy at Crutchfield you just need to bridge the rear speaker wires to get a signal for the sub. I know I've done similar stuff before, but I'm still a bit hesitant to try and do it myself. Maybe I'll have a look at it when I install the iPod adapter thingy...

I am not a car stereo guy, but my wife wants an MP3 player for Xmas, so I'm thinking, that's great and maybe I can get some kind of MP3 player in the truck too so we can have our entire music collection with us whereever we go. I haven't exchanged Xmas gifts with my wife in about 8 or 9 years, but this time I have a bit of $$$ to spend, so I want to do something nice for her. So basically here's what I'm looking for and you can tell me if I'm smoking crack or if there is something better, etc. Decent ~8 meg MP3 player that's light weight and can be used when working out (not married to iPod, think they're a bit overpriced) Ability to plug MP3 player into car stereo better door speakers for truck small bazooka tube or sub of some kind I figured this was going to run me ~$750 or so for everything... WRONG! Guess I'm still using 1990 stereo dollars, since that's about the last time I bought car stereo equipment. So I started checking it out, and I went down to a couple stereo shops. My first thought was get a new head unit that has a plug for an MP3 player in the face. Looks like my GMC has the car stereo integrated into the door buzzer and alarm systems, so you can't just swap it out. One place had all the BS I would need to do it, but they were talking about ~$500 for the cost of the decent Pioneer deck which was around $200, the adapter piece, the part that fills in the rest of the hole in the dash (cause GM uses those tall stereos) and installation. The stock speakers aren't really that great, so I was thinking of upgrading the speakers, and maybe putting a small 8" bazooka tube w/30 watt amp in the back. I had a 6" amped bazooka in my Toyota truck and It made a nice difference. I'm not looking for crazy loud stuff, but just something to fill in the highs and lows (I like hard rock/metal, not rap, so I don't need "rattle the neighbors' windows" bass. My truck has separates in the front, and the cost of separates was insane. I figure that a decent set of speakers would be fine, doesn't have to be separates. Just something better than the stockers, which can't handle much bass at all. I got a complete quote with installation and everything for the stereo stuff, not the MP3 player, and it was $1000. I thought that seemed a bit high. The guy who gave me the quote also said there is a half-ass way of running an MP3 player to a stereo through the radio. I guess you plug the iPod into some sort of radio transmitter than tune into 88.1 on the FM dial. Sounds kinda hokey to me. Is that as bad an option as it sounds? I was thinking of calling the GMC dealer to see if they have stereo head units that would be compatible. The guy at the stereo shop said he didn't think GM had any iPod compatible stereos and if they did they'd probably bend you over for one. Any other suggestions for me?

Hey John, would you mind putting these pics back up? I just got my Xmas present from Fuel Safe and I know I was pretty impressed with the way you had mounted your cell. I remember really thin straps, but can't recall the frame work and I'm a little confused as to what to do there because of all the bolts around the perimeter...

A bigger cam with more overlap would definitely be a good idea. Not only will it make the car less likely to ping, but you'll also get a heck of a lot more power out of it. I wouldn't go any smaller than a "Stage IV" Schneider, but really I'd suggest that you have your cam reground. Also look out for coil bind in the valve springs and the valve spring retainer hitting the valve stem seal, Both happen with lifts above .470 or so. Search and you'll find solutions to both of those problems. The thing about the aluminum head vs iron head is a V8 thing. You can't get an iron head for an L series unless you're going deisel. The aluminum heads we use aren't really that good, and so we are limited in the compression ratios we can run when compared to newer engines. As far as what power you're going to get, it's really tough to say exactly. I would guess that if you were running SU's, had everything tuned right and had a decent exhaust system you could expect in the 175 whp range. That's a SWAG, so you may come out + or - from that number.

If you've corner weighted a car you know that if the outside tire gains weight, the inside rear loses weight. So if you can minimize the weight transfer the inside rear won't get as light, giving better traction. Wider rear track also gives better grip because it will transfer less weight to the outside tire, but wider front track will help traction to the inside rear as well. Basically, as low, wide and light as you can practically get the car the better.

Well I welded it all together today... wrong. I somehow got the pedal box about 3/8" left of where it should have been on the plate (damn slotted holes). So I ground all the welds off and I'll probably weld it again in the right spot tomorrow. Oops... Also figured out why my balance bar wasn't moving straight. It's because the right side of the bar where the cable hooks up is longer than the left side of the bar. As you'd push the pedal the right side would fall down. So I'm thinking that won't be an issue anymore after the cable gets installed.

I think Russell wins. Stevie Ray Vaugn's cover of Voodoo Child or Little Wing for that matter have got to be 2 best covers I've ever heard. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0zy0lqpOyc

Another oversimplification of this drag phenomenon is that the car "tears a hole" in the air. I do not believe that the air rushing in to fill the hole creates a positive pressure, in much the same way that the air that rushes into your vacuum cleaner does not create positive pressure. I think you'll find that ANY aerodynamics engineer is going to try to keep the hole that the car tears through the air as far behind the car as possible, as Kamm had done. The less low pressure there is at the back of the car the less drag there is as it goes down the road. This is also why diffusers are so popular in racing cars. They are an attempt to bring air from underneath the car into the vacuum created as air flows over the top of the car, and lessen the size of the hole created. The closer one can get the wing or spoiler to the diffuser, the better.

Moved from another thread:

Carl we should probably keep this thread focused donations, as that is the real purpose here. We have several other good threads going that have a lot to do with the same subject. Here are some links, there are more. The first one is the one that spawned the wind tunnel project. The second compares the Mitsubishi EVO method of reducing the boundary separation layer to the Subaru WRX method: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115294 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117165 I'm going to try and copy your post to the first thread so we can continue the discussion there...

Yeah, I'm sure it's one of those companies. All of them probably have 1 IT guy...

No problem. Were you going to go with the shorter stock replacments for the RX7, or the ARPs?

I'm pretty darn sure the stud placement is the same as an R180, so you'd need an R180 mustache bar. Other than that should bolt in.

Covers? How about these? Tool covering Led Zeppelin (Maynard needs dancing lessons, huh?) Sound is not the best here, but this is probably my favorite cover. Anyone have any Tool covering Kyuss??? That's like my holy grail... still haven't found it though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmWVTMFfar0 Foo Fighters covering Prince (lyrics are NOT work safe): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm5sIDp0CE4 I couldn't find a video for any of Les Claypool's covers of Pink Floyd's Animals or Wish You Were Here, but those are pretty kick ass covers too.

I hadn't thought about it. My profit varies wildly from item to item. PM me or email me through the site with what you're interested in and I'll see what I can do.

I still feel that the bushings allow enough compliance that the diff rocking over and lifting the nose would still affect the front mount. I think we're going to have to agree to disagree, unless you can test diff mounts in the windtunnel too...

SOOO TRUE!!! In the beginning anyway...

Just remember lift over .460 is going to require different valve springs and seals. Very much worth the hassle, but you will have to deal with those issues. Turbo cams have a lot less overlap than NA cams, so using the NA cams isn't a good idea. The smaller NA cams will work, but they're not much of an upgrade. I'd look at a cam with ~.500 lift, as long as you can get the overlap to a reasonable amount for the turbo. ZGad's looks good, and I think I remember him saying he got over 40 whp by adding that cam, although I can't remember what turbo he was running and don't know how it compares to yours...