JMortensen

Nissan Comp should have them. I don't have their TN phone number, only the old 310 number.

I was never really able to check U-joints while the halfshafts were in the car. I mean if they're broken you'll probably be able to look at them and see it, but if they're loose you have to grab the shaft at both ends of the joint and twist back and forth and feel for slop. Much easier to do with the shaft out of the car. For the diff mount put a pry bar between the front of the diff and the crossmember and see how far the front of the diff lifts up and if the rubber in the mount is torn. If it lifts up a lot check the rubber in the mount to see if it's torn, also check the strap that goes over the front of the diff and check for tearing. On the mustache bar bushings I don't really know a test you can do to test them, but if they're original you can bet they could use replacing.

I'd love to see cage pics from the car you're working on (Flying Lizard, right?), but also from the BMW's and Audis. If you can get some shots around the splitter/airdam areas too I'd be really interested in that. Really whatever chassis/cage/suspension type shots you can get from any of the cars would be interesting to look at. Good luck!

Thanks John, that link helps a lot. Too bad their online store doesn't work. Rulebook is definitely first on the list of things to do. They do have a pdf file with a tech checklist. Couple of things stuck out like fire suppression in the engine compartment and the cabin for 150+ mph, harnesses, SA 95 or better helmet, and a parachute for over 160 on the lakes (!) Doesn't look too hard, but I definitely want to see the rulebook before diving in. Thanks Datsun350Z, my grandmother-in-law helped my wife and me out a lot when we bought our first house and then again when we moved to WA. She was a great lady. I consider it fortunate that she was healthy right up to about a week before she died, never spent a day in an old folk's home or any of that. Jim, realistically the car isn't going to be a record breaker. We're just excited about the idea of getting it out there and staying in the throttle for so long. I guess the stock vehicle was capable of 145 mph. I assume that was with a stick. I also assume that Grandma's car has an auto.

I think I had my terminology mixed up. It is a Turbo Coupe with the 2.3L. I realize now that there was a supercharged T-bird called the Super Coupe, maybe the later style??? Not a Ford guy in general, but I'd really like to help my father-in-law realize his dream of going to Bonneville.

Looks like S&W makes a 10 point DOM cage for $499. Apparently the T-Bird shares the Fox body platform. This might not be too hard to get going after all...

That manufacturer (techno toy tuning) makes camber plates for the 240Z. You should ask them directly. The Z has a very small strut tower, so the 240SX may not work.

You need to look for a horizontal band saw. Here is the better HF one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93507 Here is the crappy one that I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762 Actually I have this one (I think it's basically the same but green): http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37151

Tough to say, what else do you need?

Oh yeah, I think Tim240z was looking into that for his Opel for a while. I don't yet know a whole hell of a lot about these engines, but I think we can stick to the KISS credo for awhile at least. Just get it set up and run it and see what it does would probably be the first priority.

You get the "Comp" spring from... Nissan Competition Dept. I am also using the comp inner spring with the stock outer, but I think it works either way. Courtesy Nissan has the whole comp catalog on their website here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/nms/s30/index.html and here's the springs: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_oilpumpspring For the record the comp pump is just the higher volume turbo pump with the comp springs.

My father-in-law has this dream of doing a land speed car. He just inherited a T-Bird Super Coupe with the 2.3 turbo (my grandmother-in-law just passed away), and he mentioned it again. I think he might just have a car that is suited for this type of racing. The thing was in PRISTINE condition until about a week before her death. She backed out of her driveway and some idiot going about 30 mph in the trailer park she lives in hit the car in the rear corner. Don't know the extent of the damage or whether or not insurance will still fix it now that she has passed away. Anyway my father-in-law started talking about a cage and that sort of thing. I don't know how serious he is about this, but I might just be helping him build this thing if everything works out. Still in the extremely preliminary stages right now, but what I'm looking for are links to sites that might have info on the car or the engine, and links for sites that might have info about prepping the car for competition. I looked at some sites before and couldn't find ANY info about tech or safety regs. Also if anyone has any direct experience with this car or with land speed racing, feel free to jump in. This would be a budget type build most likely. Right now I'm just concerned with what it would take to make the car safe and techable at this point. We won't be pushing for 200 mph either. Going to start slow and work up if it happens at all.

I didn't like the grease either. I use a Sharpie, and it rubs off with a very clean line. Very easy to tell where the rocker gets hit.

Seems like you haven't looked very hard for info on this stuff. You're asking some questions that several of my own posts have dealt with recently. I'm working on some rear control arm modifications and the thread has come up within the last 2 or 3 days. It's got tons of info on putting heims joints into the rear control arms and also has a link to another thread about making the rear toe adjustable. The most comprehensive thread on struts is one of the stickies in the suspenion forum called "calling all racers" You need to search, and you need to read.

That sounds truly bitchin. Congrats on passing so many badass cars. That's a great feeling!

I had this same problem. anything over idle when cold would peg my oil pressure gauge. Changed to one comp spring and one normal spring and it was better than stock and not super pressurized like running both.

A bunch of guys have made their own. You could go that way. An adjustable control arm can be lengthened for camber, but it is preferable IMO to adjust it on top with a camber plate, because if you have one side that's pretty far off from the other side then you end up with one wheel sticking out farther from the center line of the car. If you use camber plates then you can change the track width if you want on the bottom and use the plates on the top. There's lots of threads on this subject. Try a search. I think 240hoke had a complete write-up on some arms that he made.

Mike, I think it's clear that in this case nobody had the experience with these ignition systems that you were looking for. LS1 240Z, blatantly calling people stupid for not searching is definitely counterproductive, but so is asking if anyone knows how to install a V8 in a Z car. If you're picky with your search terms you'll get better results. Yes, there is a lot of crap to weed through, but there are also some incredibly valuable posts buried in the archives. Couple of suggestions for everyone: 1. Put a good title on your posts. "Couple questions" or "I'm confused" isn't going to help the next guy looking for the same info you are. If this post were called "Accel 500+ and Accel 375+ questions" it would be better for the next guy looking. 2. Search before you ask. Yes, search before you ask. It's part of the rules for a reason people. If you don't, then not only will you catch a bunch of flak, but you've added another useless post to the pile, making it harder for the next guy to search. 3. If you want opinions, ask for opinions. 4. If a post doesn't state that they're asking for opinions, then assume it is asking for facts. If you want to respond and you're not sure of your facts, don't write your response as though it were fact. Preface your response with "this is a guess" or "I think" or "I'm pretty sure". In general though if you're not sure, let someone who IS sure respond. Just think if everyone searched and the same topic wasn't covered 1,000,000 times. Then there might be fewer and more valid threads for any particular issue, and when you did search you might find what you were looking for. Fewer threads doesn't mean that we're less friendly people. It means that we don't have as much waste. Being efficient, accurate, and friendly should be our goal here. If you just want to chat with other like minded people, try the chat room or the non-tech board.

Shimming the springs will work, as would buying either a Nissan Comp inner or outer spring and replacing one of the stockers. I think right now I'm running the stock outer and the Comp inner. My pump was modified to make it adjustable. The big plug that holds the springs in was drilled and tapped and a large probably 12mm bolt with the head cut off was installed in the plug. There is a notch for a screwdriver and a jam nut on it. Basically you loosen the jam nut and you can twist the bolt in or out and change the preload on the oil pump springs. Works good.

I hear you madkaw. Good luck with the cam, I hope it works out for you. I'm not going to say you're wrong about Schneider cams Dragonfly, but the idea that they're good because everyone else uses them is bad logic. The whole thing reminds me of Fel-Pro gaskets. When I first got on the internet looking for Z stuff back in the late 90s, it seemed like EVERYONE was saying "You HAVE to use Fel-Pro" and also saying "L6's are NOTORIOUS for bad head-gaskets". I was a bit confused, because I had never had a headgasket problem, and I had never used Fel-Pro gasket. Coincidence??? Similarly, you see a lot of people saying "You HAVE to use new rockers when you install a cam" or "It's the lube" or whatever. I think we've got the same situation as Fel-Pro. I think Schneider is selling so many Datsun cams because of their connection to MSA. If they weren't in that catalog, then I think you'd find the general opinion of L6 cams and rockers is that they're bulletproof. I've run the same set of rockers on 3 cams in my engine now (stock, regrind, and another regrind), never resurfaced, never replaced the rockers. Just set the lash pads right and that was it. I've got friends running maybe another 10 or 12 reground cams, none of them ever replaced or resurfaced the rockers. None has had a cam failure, and at least 6 of those cams were raced on at autox and track days. We've seen bottom ends lose oil pressure and spun bearings, even a holed piston, but no cam issues at all.

I don't know. Something weird is going on here. I mean I've seen the end links all bent up, but never seen the control arm with a hole in it. You can see the crack coming off the hole too, so it's definitely happened over a period of time. Something had to be seriously wrong. The bar was binding really bad, or as Mat said the end link bushings were only on one side of the control arm. Something's really screwy. The control arms don't look that rusty to me. Was this car being jumped Dukes of Hazzard style or something? Fill us in. I don't think we have all the pieces of the puzzle yet...

There have been a couple threads here from guys that have lost a lobe on a Schneider cam. Most recently Silent had a problem, the other one I can recall off the top of my head is Dan Baldwin. I don't think the spring thing has anything to do with it, and I like Schneider's springs. They allow for lots of lift and don't have insanely high seat pressures, so they shouldn't be responsible for undue wear. There was a thread here just a couple weeks ago that talked about zinc content and how that affects cam wear. Personally, I think it is a metallurgy issue and not an oil issue. I've been running Chevron DELO 15W-40 (which apparently has NO zinc) for a long time and never had a cam problem. Most of my friends who race run the same oil. None of us has had a cam problem. Would cryo treating help? Can't say. I don't think it's really worth the investment to find out when there are so many other cam manufacturers out there who are not garnering a reputation on the internet for soft cams. Regrinds generally run about $65 and if you start with a factory cam the metallurgy question is removed, so why bother paying 3x that amount for a suspect cam? Also, Schneider's stages 1, 2, and 3 are ridiculously small IMO. The stage 3 is about the biggest you want to run with stock FI (which sucks), and that IMO is why they made it the stage 3. To make guys with FI think they've really stepped up. If you're running carbs or programmable FI the stage 4 should be really the first cam you consider from Schneider. Stage 5 is a bit much for most people to drive on the street.

Sorry to hear about the testicular cancer. That is a real bummer. My best friend's girlfriend is currently recooperating from brain surgery. She had a golf ball sized tumor (benign) right next to her pituitary gland. She's ~35 years old. Tumors and cancer aren't just for old people unfortunately. About your brother's girlfriend. Hit your local bicycle shop and get some "Brave Soldier". This stuff is made specifically for road rash, and it works friggin great. I found out about it when I hugged a tree at 20 mph a couple years ago. I scraped the whole right side of my face from helmet line to chin on the tree. It looked pretty bad. My friend gave me a little container of the Brave Soldier and it was pretty amazing. The huge scab that was the right side of my face was completely gone in about two weeks. People that I worked with at the time were pretty astonished.

We can't sticky every good thread. Just remember it and use the search function in the future. The thread will still be here.

Leith, did you lube the clutch pack before you tested the breakaway? I did mine dry and I almost smacked my head on the vise when it broke loose. With lube = ~15 ft/lbs. You really have to disassemble the whole clutch stack and lube every disk, then you get ONE test, then have to disassemble again to do it right. Next time you do one I'd appreciate it if you would take a picture of the cross pin shaft. I'm wondering if the diffs Precision Gear sells are the ones with the full clutch pack or the ones with the 3.25mm spacers...