JMortensen

Cut it off. You can buy 3/8" sleeves at the hardware store here in WA. Might want to check that first, but if you can there too, just cut it off. You might also want to take a look at WHY it happened. Are there dents in the frame rails or in the body where the end links were hitting? Does the sway bar hit something in the middle? Seems odd that they would just snap off, especially if it is both of them.

Well I went out to the garage for the first time since getting back into town. Looks like the 1.5" square tube I have is too deep, and that the ends won't hit the back side of the tubing. Checked http://www.onlinemetals.com, they have a 1.5 x 1 x .065 that should work. A foot of the stuff would run a whopping $1.50, so I think I'm going to order it up. That puts me off of that project until tomorrow though. I'm thinking that this might just be the way to go because the ability to adjust the rear track might come in handy someday. Also considering scrapping the spindle pins for a couple of 5/8" bolts. The issue there is that the spindle pins will be longer than necessary if I set the rod ends so that they sit flush on the end of the strut, so a 5/8 bolt might be better. Wouldn't have to make spacers for the end of the pins. Anyone see any advantage/disadvantage to moving the rod ends closer to the strut with no spacers vs having them at the distance originally designed for the bushings and using spacers?

Good point, didn't think of that. On mine I used angle iron welded to the top of the 1x1, because my sliders bolted horizontally instead of vertically. I suppose another option would have been to drill a hole in the bottom of the tube and weld bolts so that the threaded end stuck straight up, then just plug the bracket onto the exposed studs and use nuts on top. 6 of one, half dozen of the other I suppose.

You're in the right place. Clifton has a Supra engine in his car. See his sig? 7MGTE is a Supra engine. Several others have done it too. Search in the other engines forum and I'm sure you'll find all kinds of info.

You've probably seen my R4S picture: I tried driving the R4 pads on the street, and wasn't comfortable with the amount of heat they needed to start working. Just going down a residential street in the morning was the worst. They didn't do much of anything even at 30 mph until they got hot. They did work OK on the track for me at that time though. No experience with the R11's though.

Looks pretty familiar. I see some of the same holes that I had in the floor after removing the stock seat brackets. That sucker is REALLY welded in there, huh? Removing those things was way harder than removing the frame rails from the floor. One question I have. Instead of swiss cheesing your heavier frames, why not start with smaller tubing? I used 1x1x.063 on the seat and will do the same on the fuel cell. It weighs .79 lb/ft and I just don't feel a need to lighten it more than that. Might make your life a bit easier.

I think that the kink you're looking at is not a kink, its the door bar. I was looking at it the same way wondering why they bent the main hoop like that, then I realized that that was actually the door bar and the main hoop looks like a fairly normal SCCA hoop as far as I can tell. The diagonal goes to the rear strut tower instead of across the hoop. Might not be SCCA legal, but I've seen it before. Ron Carter's BRE replica is done that way IIRC. Here's the pic again with some highlighting: Hoop = yellow Door bars = blue Diagonal = red Ron's cage:

Yup. I think they are a larger diameter with more splines on the longnose R200.

Pretty sure. I'm not an engineer. I could be wrong. Thinking back to a vague memory of the How to Hotrod book which I haven't seen in a good 8 years, I seem to recall BRE reinforcing the triangular end of the box which can be seen inside the rear wheel well. I don't think they would have bothered if they didn't think it would do any good. On the earlier cars they didn't have the storage compartments, just a flanged holed panel on top and a solid sheet with 4 flanged holes in the vertical area, and then the reinforcing plate in the middle. It looks much more businesslike than the 72 and later cars with the big storage compartment up top.

I was focused on that rocker bar, but I think Cameron is right.

That does help. We apparently have different calipers. Mine were the solid rotor version, and they took a normal bubble flare type of connection. Your's obviously take the banjo fitting. Sorry, I guess I ASSumed they all used the same fitting.

The package tray is one of the torque boxes in the Z chassis. The other is the cowl area. Don't cut it out unless you put something in it's place to provide some rigidity there. tube80z has a good idea of putting an X from the strut towers to the bottom of the main hoop of a roll bar. That should be sufficient to remove the rear deck area, you've probably seen it in some of the chassis threads. I think the section that goes over the tranny tunnel on the vertical area is reinforced, and I think that's about the thickest metal in the whole chassis, excepting maybe the TC buckets. If memory serves that plate is about twice as thick as the "frame rails".

Clifton is right. That stock EFI blows chunks. You can make a lot of power with the SU's, more with triples, but a turbo and all the necessary engine management to go with it would really be a big power increase. If you don't want all the hassle of a high strung 6 cylinder, almost any V8 would be a huge step up, and they don't require turbo lag to make big hp numbers. If you want to use what you have, install the L28 in the 240 and use the carbs.

Am I remembering correctly that the 720 pickups have the engine tilted over? Don't know if that helps at all, but I'm thinking engine mounts, trans crossmember, maybe even a bellhousing swap...

Great link Steve! That is almost exactly what I had in mind with the flanged hole plate between the rocker and the lower bar.

The best solution here is to search, and when you find a post that doesn't fully answer your question, post your question there. That way you (hopefully) get the answer you're looking for, and the next guy searching doesn't have to read the post that you read and your new post to get all the information. I love to see posts from 2003 that are still being expounded upon. That's a lot more efficient for the next guy than trying to look through 400 different posts over a 3 year period on the same subject. The point is not to browbeat people or be mean to people. The point is to make the site more efficient for those who want to search it. As Davy said the same questions come up over and over and over again and sometimes we might not be as diplomatic as we could be. What we are now engaged in is "thread jacking" where we've moved off of Grumpy's original topic and we're off onto a completely different subject. I suggest you start another thread if you want to keep going on this subject.

That's pretty good. Cheaper than JSK was if I recall correctly. I think I pieced my whole front brake setup together for about $575 through JSK, http://www.behrents.com, and http://www.pitstopusa.com. In particular I think the pitstopusa price on the Superlite IIA was the best at $105: http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=3662

Just like I said. If you reuse the little S hard line that will plug into the Toy caliper, then you can use the Datsun stainless line. If you don't want to reuse the S shaped hard line, then you need the 10mm female fitting for the frame side, and a male 10mm fitting for the caliper side.

I can't speak from direct experience (thank god) but if I were in a car that slid sideways into a tree at 90 mph I think I'd want the bars welded together. Less chance of spreading them apart. Might think a little differently about getting T boned by a car, but that's not usually the concern in rally racing.

Wasn't Mike charging something right around $200 for a pair? Anyone remember what AZC charged before they went to the aluminum? Their older chromoly version arms weren't as much as these IIRC. They just aren't hard enough to manufacture to justify the cost IMO. The on the car adjustability is nice, but for an extra $300 I'll take the bolt out and spin the rod end around and bolt it back up...

Me too.

Nice photography skills! Pics are magazine quality! Can't wait to see the others, thanks for taking them.

I think that's his time trialing car that's eventually getting a V8. The design has what I'm looking for: a bar right above the rocker (attached to strengthen it), and an easy to bend door bar that protrudes into the door. I seem to recall that it is a copy of a Porsche design. I won't be racing with SCCA either.

Welcome Katie! So few females on a site like this. Nice to get another perspective. Congrats on acquiring the ZX!

Look good to me. $450 is a bit overpriced. You remember Doug, Larry's machinist friend? He built mine for a very expensive $275.