JMortensen

You can download all the rulebooks at http://www.scca.com now.

Sounds like a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. The master is the small cylinder in the engine compartment right next to the brake master cylinder where you check your clutch fluid (you said dumb it down) and the slave attaches to the bell housing of the transmission and it pushes the clutch fork which engages/disengages the clutch. You can pull the boot off of the master and slave cylinders and see if fluid runs out. The boot for the master is up under the dash because it sticks through the firewall of the car. If either is leaking they need to be replaced. They usually get replaced as a pair. It's not hard to fix yourself, but any garage that has half a clue should be able to fix it for you and not charge more than an hour or two labor. Sometimes when they go bad they really start dumping out the fluid and the master cylinder runs dry. In that case you might be able to limp it along by adding fluid to the master so that you can drive it to a shop.

Is this a brake or fuel 10mm that you're talking about? The stock brake lines have something weird like 4.1mm tube with 10mm nuts. You can use the 3/16" line for the brakes since it will fit the same fittings as the 4.x line, and then depending on what masters and soft lines you end up using you can just buy the fittings to match. I think mine is going to be all SAE sizes when I'm done, since I'm going to Wilwoods and Tilton style master cylinders. I think for fuel most people I know are running 3/8, but I'm sure that there are posts about going up to 1/2" at whatever power level requires more fuel than the 3/8 can deliver. BTW glad you found the brake FAQ useful.

Sure sounds like the reaction disk to me. Takes less time to check the disk then it does to bleed the brakes.

Yes. More info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100533

Bent stub axle is my bet. IIRC you can pull the stub and have it turned to fix if it isn't really bent, or you can just replace it. Any bend at the stub will be magnified at the tire. This happened on my wifes Sentra years ago and I was chasing warped drums for a while before I figured it out, that might help you confirm your problem. Could also be a bent wheel of course.

The BZ3099 is 1 5/8" shorter than the stock strut.

Apparently you didn't make it to this paragraph:

Sectioning the struts would be my suggestion. You can trim down the bump stops but don't leave them out. Camber plates are good for adjusting camber. They do have side effects that make them not the best bet for lowering the car, like noise and upkeep on the bearings. You could always get a shorter wheel/tire combo too.

I'm not much of a Datsun historian and I don't want to get too far into this as it is kind of a thread jack, but check this out: http://www.datsunhistory.com/transam1.html According to this, the Alfa didn't actually use any of the extra fuel that their tank would hold. The Alfa finished first and took the checkered flag. To me, that's Datsun winning on a technicality.

Looks like something someone made in their garage. Not that this is necessarily a bad thing.

100cc blown V8? Sounds like a perfect transplant into a YSR50...

Did you check the reaction disk? Similar threads in the past have been posted due to the reaction disk falling out and into the booster. Very common issue when swapping masters.

Wow us with your searching of this subject that has been discussed so frequently here. You might be careful spelling octane because that will get you better results.

You normally don't want to be adjusting the bias, so if it isn't a race car installing the prop valve in the engine compartment where you have it is fine. I'd expect that your car with those big rear tires and rear weight bias (guessing) can use some more rear brakes, so it sounds like a good experiment to me.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/steering.htm Those links should help a lot. The transmission changed in mid 71. You'd have to identify your trans and then make the appropriate fix. The shifter bushings in the later transmissions are easy to replace and cost about $5 from Nissan. The early transmission has a different bushing setup and is known to be a sloppy shifter. I think you can swap the shifter bushings in that one too but I haven't ever tried. I just swapped in 5 speeds and junked the old 4 speeds. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg

Agreed. It's worse to find a car that's been fixed poorly than to find one that needs repair. That one has been fixed poorly, if that bird poop welding is any indication.

It will work.

I'm a jackass. I went today and bought a new drill bit because the only place I could find in the phone book that would sharpen it was downtown, about a 30 mile round trip. New bit from Home Depot was $18. Slathered some bacon grease on there, and cut the hole in the first knuckle in literally 2 minutes. Did the second one, probably took me 3. So apparently I can't sharpen drill bits for one, and apparently that first bit I was using was already dull when I started for two. Boy what a waste of time that was. The one knuckle that I spent all the time on really isn't very loose at all, and the other one is even tighter, so I'm going to run them as is. Thanks for the help everyone, but it looks like if I had started out with a new bit in the first place this would have been EASY...

On a technicality because the Alfa's tank was too large...

I think I follow. The ends aren't going to be parallel. Most of the way through the travel the bar and the trailing arm are going to be at an angle to each other, because the trailing arm and the sway bar end aren't going to move in the same arc. I don't think you really need to worry about the situation you're describing there. Even if you make them parallel at ride height they'll be all over the place as the suspension goes through its travel. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105596&page=5

That's a good point, and bushing is a good suggestion, although if I could drill nicely with the 5/8 bit I wouldn't need to do anything more, so I don't think my 3/4" hole that I want to bush down to 5/8" is going to be too good either... I was thinking of bending these things anyway, or cutting and welding them back together like 260DET did. Either way they're going to get HOT, and need to be re-treated. Maybe a machinist is required here. First things first. Sharpen drill bit and see how loose the hole really is...

I was using some rendered fat, and it seems to work well, and the garage smells like bacon... mmmmmmm... bacon. I've only ever burnt the bit up faster using WD-40, so I'm going to stay away from that suggestion. Had a busy weekend so I didn't get out to the garage but I'm going to try and find a place that will sharpen that 5/8" bit today. Like I said, it does seem to be holding an edge, but it sure isn't cutting for crap. I'm worried that since I've spent so much time trying to get this thing to drill through that the hole is more wallowed out than it would otherwise be. Haven't figured out what to do about that yet, thinking I could weld the hole up and drill it again if all else fails. Or take a spare to a machinist and have them do it right. Again, extra expense that I don't want to deal with...

I don't know how a ZX sway bar mounts up, but I assume it mounts to the front. You should be able to change the length of the end links to get something appropriate. I remember my Toyota truck came with 2 sets of end links. Longer ones for stock height, and shorter ones for lowered trucks. You'll just need longer or shorter bolts and spacers to fit between the bushings, everything else should be the same. If you can I'd check to make sure that the suspension can move all the way through its travel without hitting anything, that's the most important thing.

Need more info. What you've got there tells us nothing. Get lift and duration numbers, lobe separation angles, lift at .050" if they do that in Oz, get all the info you can then we can make a better suggestion.