JMortensen

Todd bent over backwards to help me, and I was referred to him by other racers who had nothing but good things to say. If you're going to register here just to flame a vender, you're not going to last very long. The fact that you dug up an old post to do so is even worse.

It looks like you're wanting adjustable valves. Why not just take the adjusters out of the E88 and put them in the P90 with the correct Timeserts? That way you'll have the larger valves from the P90 too. Info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105025

Nah, I don't think I need spares. The ones in there look pretty good and they've been through 8 seasons of autox and a bunch of track days. If I blow this thing up, which I highly doubt, I'll spring for a KAAZ with their better design and more, bigger clutches.

Coolant pressure testers will help you find a leak. If your system isn't leaking but is running hot a pressure tester won't help diagnose it.

You're right I did forget about your broken disks. Not sure that it matters too much though. The 1.75 = .068" and the 1.65 = .064" so your really talking about a .004" difference. Not hard to add .008" shim to make up that difference if it's needed. I am a little concerned though that with all the increased surface area from all the new disks that it may not be needed at all. If milling is that easy then great. I assumed it would be a big PITA to do on such a thin piece, but still, we don't know if it is even necessary yet. At some point we're going to just have to try it and see what the result is. You can definitely replace one of the spring washers with another clutch if you want, that shouldn't cause a problem at all, other than it takes some of the progressiveness out of the lockup. Some of the other Datsun LSDs have no springs whatsoever, so I'm sure that this isn't a problem. My reason for pursuing this is that I think the reason you (and others) stripped all the tabs off of your disks was because there is only one per side. I think 3 per side would be sufficient, but 4 per side wouldn't hurt I suppose.

OK, mcmaster is usually a little high on price. I'll see if I can't find someone esle who sells the 1095. So I think this is mostly going to benefit people who have the spacers on the sides. We'll need 4 clutches per unit. I was thinking that the full thickness of the washer was 3.25mm, so divide by two and you want 1.625, which is .0639". If we could get close to that thickness then it wouldn't be necessary to mill the clutches. If we went with .070, then you'd effectivly be adding .016" shim to the the stack, which in my case puts it at about ~50 lbs breakaway, but I don't know that this would be the correct figure with all the new clutches in the stack. I think we're going to have to try a thickness and see what we get with it, but I'd still rather err on the conservative side and add shims later if need be than put them in and find out we've made a spool. What do you think?

If I had the angle iron in there so that the brackets were supported on the side, do you think I'd need the 1" spacers in the middle? Spacers are kind of a PITA to cut accurately on my bandsaw.

Downforce upside down = upforce. Downforce backwards = drag more than anything else as far as I know.

What other metals would be suitable? Would this work? http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9663&step=4&showunits=inches Or this? http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=12782&step=4&showunits=inches The 4130 is almost exactly the right thickness, if we used the 1008 then it might require a shim or two. Nice thing is these guys are mail order so I can just have the material shipped to you. I only checked this place because they're local and I've bought from them before, but they didn't have the exact steel you mentioned, and I don't know what would substitute. Maybe we should do a group buy also...

I'd be willing. PM me with your address and we'll get it done.

Good luck dude. I suggest uncrossing your nuts though, that gets mighty uncomfortable...

Did you go see the last Herbie movie? You gonna go see Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang II?

Thanks for the encouragement proxlamus. I'll let everyone know when I get it running, but don't hold your breath. Still a hell of a lot to do unfortunately... OK I've got one side working, no binding, no droop limiting. So now I just need to make the other side match and weld it in permanently and I'll be good to go. The middle setting on the control arm will be double shear, but unfortunately the full tight and full loose settings won't be. I am out of patience for trying to box in the bracket and make it double shear. F'ed that up twice, so now it's single shear on the outer positions. I am going to put a piece of angle on the inboard side of the brackets to stiffen them. In order to get it working I had to bend the end of the bar a bit more so that it is pretty well perpendicular to the control arm. I also had to use larger angle iron, because the 1x1 stuff that I used in the back bound on the rod end in the soft and hard positions. I also had to move the brackets closer to the leading edge of the control arm which is why you'll see an arrow in the pics. That was a little reminder telling me which way to move it. So here's the pics:

Thanks Jeff! That is as awesome as I thought it would be!

Search the archives here, and get yourself some books. You need to do some reading before you start. Maybe start by learning the difference between inline and V6s.

If you just need a short male LH and RH threaded piece, you could try http://www.mcmaster.com. Get a LH and RH threaded stud and just weld a nut onto the stud to put a wrench on, or maybe even just grind a flat in the middle of the stud to grab with a wrench.

The stock tach is more of a suggestion anyway, if you really want a tach, buy a tach and put it in. The hole in the dash is just the right size for a 5" gauge so installation couldn't be easier.

Coleman Racingn and AFCO sell both aluminum and steel tubes. These are threaded RH and LH so they work as a turnbuckle. http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=87&CategoryID=8 http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=117&CategoryID=8 http://www.colemanracing.com/

Real race cars like that only have a couple inches of travel, and a lot of them run droop limiters in addition.

I was just thinking... do you know WHY they're designed for a 2.5" spring? Because you couldn't adjust it very far at all with a full size spring in there. So yeah, you're going to have to do the coilovers.

I don't know if this is true, and the pics look a bit suspicious, but the story is pretty crazy!!! http://www.autoblog.com/2006/05/23/aston-martin-flies-farther-than-wright-bros/

If you made a top hat that would fit they would work, but I'm sure the hat that comes with it fits the 2.5 inch springs.

Well the reason the bar wasn't in full droop in this picture is because the clamp around the bar was hitting the frame. It wouldn't be adjustable or anything, but maybe I could use that as a limiter, just to try and get freedom of movement without any bind. It was only limiting about the first inch of droop at the most. I'm still going to try rotating the bottom rod end 90 degrees, but I think that this droop limiter might work, and realistically it will rarely if ever get used while the car is actually being driven.

I stripped one and took everything off of it. We screwed a couple boards across the floorboards. Then we greased up the rails on my friend's trailer. We pulled the trailer as far underneath the car as we could, then lifted the front of the car and set it on the trailer. Then we winched the car up on the trailer. When we got to the junkyard we chained the body to a post outside and drove the trailer out from under the car. It was pretty redneck, but it worked!

Yeah, I've always kind of taken issue with your numbers, but I'm a triples and big cam guy, so I don't think your comments were aimed squarely at guys like me. I do agree with the idea that it isn't worth a whole lot on a SU'd stock cammed L engine, and I do think the cheaper headers might be worth quite a bit less than a really good one.