JMortensen

240s are different. There are no shocks, so you just bolt directly to the bumper attachment which is on the rearmost frame rail. I have no clue what you would do for a later car. Hopefully somebody will post up for you.

Did you try Courtesy Nissan? They're the ones that found it for me.

When I ordered it about a year ago the 280Z part number was discontinued, but the 300ZX part number was still available. They look identical and it fit fine.

Spin faster = more hp.

Sounds like you're working towards an entirely different goal.

Stickers, lots and lots of stickers.

Polyurethane is a bad choice of material for this part. The insulator doesn't just insulate road noise from the chassis. It also allows the strut angle to change when the suspension goes through its travel. If you use poly, that's a much stiffer material that doesn't want to flex to let the strut move. What's worse, there is less of it. This would put a lot of side load onto the strut shaft, which would wear struts out quickly and cause failures, not to mention it would add a ton of stiction to the strut. It's an all around bad idea. This is kind of like the poly TC bushings. The poly has to flex in order for the suspension to move. Side load on the TC rods has caused them to snap off, as has been discussed here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758 If you want to get rid of the insulator get a camber plate or make a monoball plate like Tom Holt did: http://sth2.com/Z-car/shocks.htm. I'd just go with the camber plate. It also holds the monoball, but you get the added adjustment as well.

There are fully counterweighted cranks out there already. I think SCAT makes one, and someone will ocassionally link to a Japanese page which shows one in a catalog or on an auction site. I want to say that the scat runs $2500 or $3000 IIRC, and I think AZC used to carry it about 10 years ago, back when they sold a tube chassis. Remember those???

Wow! 57 lbs?!? I assume that is the flywheel, pp, and clutch disk. Even so, that's friggin HEAVY! If I were in the market I'd be looking at aluminum flywheels and that sort of thing. 60 lbs of rotating mass bolted onto the engine isn't good.

BINGO! That's the key right there.

Agreed. My HF helmet has worked better than my Hobart helmet did so far, and it has quite a few hours on it by now.

The Illumina is a strut INSERT. You will use the existing strut tube and section it so that the INSERT can be INSERTED into it and the nut tightens down on it.

The Illumina is an insert. When you put it in the strut tube you'll find that it goes way down in there. You're sectioning the strut so that when the gland nut goes on it is tight on the top of the insert. The rear struts for the 240 and the 280 have a steel spacer pressed onto the bottom of the insert. The struts that you bought will not have the spacer, so you don't have to remove any part of the strut, just section the housing to fit it.

I was just thinking I should mention that holding one wheel while turning the other would be a good way to test. Normally you can do this, but it takes a little effort. If you can hold one and turn the other easily that would tell you that you have a problem.

Ep?

Jacking the car up and spinning the wheel is not a good test. If your other LSD has all the tabs on the clutches then I'd suggest you shim it tighter, or get the extra clutch disks or both. Having 3 disks per side should make it more aggressive than just having one. What made you think that one was broken in the first place? Noises? Spinning one wheel?

Keep in mind the yellow is just showing the factory "frame." I just did that to show how the rest ties into it.

This is my issue as well. Most ring gears are a press fit onto the carrier. The R200s aren't. They're loose on the carrier. So you really are relying on the clamping force of the bolts. That said, under "normal" circumstances that should be enough to hold everything together, and even when you're using the 12mm bolts on a 12mm carrier they aren't a press fit through the carrier, so there is a tiny bit of slack in there anyway. But that is the reason why I chose to use spacers. FWIW, I've seen it done the other way and the people didn't have a problem.

No, but I have pics of my own bar there: Here's my cage design that I am mulling doing. Yellow= original frame or crossmembers (with the exception of making the front crossmember into a K member) Red = SFC or miscellaneous braces Blue= strut tower braces Green = cage The red at the front is an X that will go in the core support. Still trying to decide exactly how to do that one.

I don't have a cage, I just have a roll bar at the moment. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102715 I'm still considering going with the full cage. Cary's been trying to talk me into it, but I'm not sure just because I'd have to pay someone to do the front bends just like I had to pay for the main hoop. The hoop and material to do the bar ended up running about $350 and the front would be considerably more complicated, so I'd have a lot of $$$ into this thing by the time I got it all done. Plus I already have the roll bar welded in, so I'd have to either drill holes in the roof to weld in the front part to the main hoop, or I'd have to cut the roof off, weld the tubes, and then weld the roof back on. Either way is kind of a hassle, and I still have so much other stuff to do that I'm not sure I want to deal with it. I'm torn because of the weight issue, and John only had a bar in the ROD, but then there is the impact protection of the cage, cost, time, weight, etc. I don't like your door bars as shown in this thread though. I'd attach them to the down bars in the front and the main hoop in the rear. I thought you had another design where they were going to bend down and meet in the middle, kind of like >=< I thought that looked like a pretty stout design.

I think the X that John is talking about goes from the top of the hoop to the strut towers. The X that Cary mentioned goes from the strut towers to the rockers.

Here's a thread from when I was trying to figure the mounts out. The rear on a 240 is really easy. One long piece of tube with a couple short pieces welded on at each end. Then you just drill holes and bolt to the bumper mounts in back. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105319

Surprisingly, only about 2 lbs per caliper. I was looking into that one a while back. I found a post where the original caliper weighed 9.x lbs and the Toy was 11.x lbs.

I followed the suggestion in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104151 and I found that my car is a little top heavy. Then I added the roll bar which made it a little worse. Still you can almost spin the car with one hand as it is, so it really isn't bad. If I were to do it again I'd go maybe 4.5" offset. I think the difference is 280 tub vs 240 tub.

You don't need to totally strip the car to put it on a rotisserie. I put mine on with the driveline and wheels removed and everything else on the car. If you were just doing the subframe connectors I think that the rotisserie would be a bit much. All the stitch welding and trying to get the paint out of all the little crevices underneath was what was killing me. Prepping for the SFC's was easy by comparison. I don't know exactly how many welds I've got holding the connectors in, but I'd guess that there can't be more than about 50. You can put up with it for that long. It's not fun, but you can do it. If there is something unclear or if you want pics of something else on the SFC's just ask. Mine are only modified from the firewall forward. For the record, the Bad Dog parts aren't nearly 2x3. They're more like .75 x 2.5, and they aren't a full rail, just a U channel that welds to the floor, using the floor as the 4th side of the box. I needed the ground clearance and didn't want to really lose any with the connectors, and didn't want 1.5" of tubing sticking up out of the floor either. You have to take into account what the subframe connectors are being used for. In my case they're only part of a larger structure, not a ladder frame that the unibody effectively just sits on as would be the case for others. My intention is to connect the subframes each other and to the rockers as solidly as possible, the rockers to the frame rails as much as possible, then the cage to the rockers as well. The roll bar in the back will connect to the strut towers, and I still haven't decided whether to do a full cage or just leave it as is. With this all done and the entire chassis stitched, I'm thinking that will be enough. It will certainly be an improvement over what I had going on before.