JMortensen

Which way allows the bearings to hit the race, and which way doesn't? Which way can you put the nut on the end of the shaft, and which way doesn't leave room for the nut on the end of the shaft. Come on, man. I'm not trying to bust your balls here, but if you can't figure that out maybe you shouldn't be working on the car... that's brutal honesty here, not trying to be an *******. If I were you I would seriously consider taking your car to a shop for any other work that it needs, and again, I'm saying that while thinking of your best interests.

In order to put them in backwards you'd have to hammer in the race with the bearing already inside the hub, so don't do it that way.

Right. But the 10000 rpm and Quartermasters bolt to a flex plate, not a flywheel. Search it.

You need to slot the rear crossmember to make it adjustable for camber and toe. A slotted crossmember is kind of hard to adjust, generally you do it with a prybar when the car is on the alignment rack, which can be kind of difficult if you don't know what you're doing. MSA used to sell a kit that had adjusters for this, I think they don't have it anymore. it's a pretty simple setup and other styles of adjusters have been used, I seem to remember someone using a Mercedes adjuster. Anyway, if you search "slotted crossmember" you should find some stuff, and if not try 510 sites. Those guys have basically the same suspension and they're 10+ years older than ZXs so they've been down all these roads and you can copy a lot of stuff that they're doing.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm There's all the specs. They're all tiny. I wouldn't call it a bump. Maybe a nudge.

I don't think it needs to be that close tolerance. I went out and tried to sharpen the bit, and I don't know what to think. It seems to be holding an edge, but it just won't cut through that stupid knuckle. I've spent literally about 3 hours trying with the hand drill and the drill press and I'm about 75% of the way through. I don't know if it's just because I did a bad job on the bit or what. I think I'm going to try another bit tomorrow and see if it cuts faster. If not I might just have to take this whole project to a machine shop, something I didn't want to do...

Hammered cat turds, eh? They're pretty hard, I can say that much. I've got the drill press on its slowest setting. I did not use any cutting fluid, and I'm sure I overheated the bit. I do have a gargantuan 1/2" hand drill which I think has a stronger motor than the press and it turns SLOW. Maybe I should go buy some cutting fluid and a new bit and give that a shot.

I don't think what I'm doing is helping it much either. Basically it's only the outer 1/8" of the drill bit that is actually cutting, since I'm following the existing tie rod end hole. Plus my HF drill press (2nd cheapest one they have) has some crappy bushings in it so it allows the drill bit to bounce around a bit before it takes a set and starts cutting. The bit seemed to do fine when I was drilling through plate starting with a much smaller pilot hole. Not much I can do about the circumstances though... Thanks for the advice guys. I think what I'm going to do right now is swap the stone around so that the surface I'm grinding on is the least used surface on the stone. Then maybe I'll replace it if that doesn't work.

I think I misunderstood the problem when I looked at this back in March. The problem seems to be that the Mustang rack moves farther than the Z rack. The answer is limiters on the rack, or limiters on the steer knuckles, so that the tires can't turn that much. Here is a pic of Terry's fix, which uses the aluminum to limit the movement of the steer knuckle:

I've dulled my 2nd 5/8" drill bit trying to drill out my steer knuckles, and they're kind of pricey. I have a grinding wheel, but like an idiot I've used it for shaping various plate pieces that are already on the car, so the grinding wheel isn't anything like straight on the front surface. I'm thinking I might be able to use the side of the stone to get a reasonably flat surface. Just looking for tips before I give this a shot. I googled and I saw various site saying "piece of cake" or "buy the $200 machine because you'll never do it right" so I'm hoping someone might be able to give some advice.

I think the stockers are about 20% stiffer in back. Bottom line: F= not enough R= too soft

This used to be my job sort of. Instead of looking for fraud by identity theives, I used to look for fraud by merchants. The most common tip off was repetitive card numbers. If you use a credit card number generator you have to plug in a good card number to get it started. So the first 8 or 10 digits would all match, but the last 6 or 8 would be different. Other tip offs were a convenience store selling a $4000 item, or activity suddenly going from nothing to super busy. The one that I'm still the most proud that I caught was a dental assistant who was taking her boyfriend's cc to work and REFUNDING money onto his card. Caught that one just by common sense. I was looking through the charges and thinking "When does the dentist EVER give you a REFUND???" Checked the card number history on that one and it had never been charged and had received 2 refunds for around $500. I would imagine from the other end it probably has more to do with where the purchases take place. I know once I went racing and I filled up at the gas station in Rosamond, then raced all day, then went back and filled up again at Rosamond. I guess they thought it was suspicious that I would fill up twice in the same day. Citibank turned my card off after the second charge and when it declined the next time I tried to use it I called and they verified the transaction and they turned it back on. They can be a little overzealous sometimes.

How long do you need them? I got a plate of aluminum and had a machinist mill the correct hole for my 44 Mikunis. He then used a carbide 3/8" router bit to machine the air horn. If I had it to do over again I would drill out the threaded hole in the carb and put the cap screws on the back side of the carb and have them thread into the airhorn that way it would be smoother.

All that and you didn't even need to buy their "credit protector" BS...

I agree with Keith. I know very few people who tried it and I think most or all of them have had trouble. I think John Coffey even had his go bad. I never understood what the perceived benefit was anyway, but regardless, if I have a choice between bearing or bushing in a Z or any vehicle, I'm choosing bushing every time.

The pinto part is the taper that fits into the steer knuckle. It is not the same taper as the Z steer knuckle, so the steer knuckle would need to be reamed to the correct size. Once the reaming is done you can install the Pinto part, which leaves you with a 5/8" shaft hanging down below the steer knuckle. From there you can add spacers and then you would put a rod end on the bottom. The trick is getting a turnbuckle to attach the 5/8 rod end to the inner tie rod end. I'm starting to work on this right now, and the ideas that have come up are to take a piece of hex aluminum and drill and tap both ends. The inside gets drilled and tapped with 14 x 1.5mm threads and the outer gets 5/8 - 18 threads. This looks to be the hard way to do it. The easier way is to get a swedged 5/8" tie rod tube from Coleman Racing and modify it to work. This is done by cutting off the threaded portion of the stock Datsun tie rod end, cutting the steel tube from Coleman, and welding the two parts together. Credit goes to Cary (tube80z) for this idea. Modifying the tube is easier than cutting threads in the aluminum tube because the 240Z has left and right hand threaded inners. You might also check this thread here which goes into these options in greater detail: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111435

I guess the dogs aren't the only ones that are high strung, eh?!!

Classic Z-tard!!! If anyone who has a sick sense of humor hasn't seen Team America: World Police, you need to go rent it.

Good to know that piece of **** Zarqawi is gone for good. Something's wrong with that video footage though. It shows the first bomb, then cuts and shows the first bomb again. Unless the two explosions were exactly the same, and they stopped to let the dust settle in between...

Is it the case that you have to establish key words for the search engine to use Dan? If so, maybe we should have a place to suggest key words for you to plug into it.

You could, but why not just find some 280 struts. Not like they're rare or anything.

Nevermind. I'm an idiot. I thought you won a RAFFLE for a Firebird. It's obvious you bought the car to put the engine in a Z.

If the bolt costs $5 and the spindle pin costs $25, theres a difference for you.

I was going to do something like that Cary. Haven't figured out exactly where the X brace will connect to, but that was the plan. Thinking in front of the core support, not sure if it will connect to the support or the upper frame rail though. Then I was going to soft mount the radiator, just to be sure. I wouldn't know how to address the question about the roll angles. I think my old setup was pretty standard for the most part.

I only recommended the two screws because I had my stator leaning over and hitting the reluctor when I took mine apart the first time. You're right though, there really wouldn't be any reason for the bearings to fall out or the plastic to break, other than the effect of the heat and vibration. Eliminating the movement of the breaker plate should reduce the possibility of failure to a large degree.