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Max_S

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  1. Just came across this after finding an article about the DOHC-heads. Any progress on the BRZ-gearbox? I imagine a modern gearbox might want some sort of control unit and sensor package, no? (Also, just a side-note, a lot of the image-links are broken).
  2. You might want to look into replacing a bunch of the burned metal too, high heat weakens metal so some structural rigidity is going to be gone from those parts compared to the pre-fire condition. It's why severely burned cars usually don't get fixed.
  3. So my project is finally making a little bit of progress in planning, and in the process of that a local Z-owner told me that, at some point, 280Zs came with the L28 but without fuel injection. Is that true? Even if it wasa tiny run, did it happen? So far I've found out carbed L28s came in about half a dozen cars, but not the Z. Did I miss something? If they ever came with carbed L28 that would really help with my plans^^ Max
  4. Hello from your northern neighbor Stumbled over your thread after coming back here, being slightly disappointed by the online-community on this side of the pond 😐 Haven't read all of it yet, just the last ~5 pages, but really liking what I'm seeing (and some respectful envy^^). I guess once my project finally gets underway I'll have to make the 1000km ("around the corner" in miles) trip down and see if I can spot your Z in the alps Definitely going to keep an eye on this, already bookmarked some stuff for info. Max
  5. Instead of adding fiberglass, maybe add a gasket (and metal strip)? You have added that part underneath the rear spoiler, so you've found a decently trustworthy way of attaching carbon to metal. Maybe that'd work.
  6. I get that it's probably too late now, but in case you ever change something about the lights, wouldn't 7" Motorcycle-headlights (think harley-aftermarket) work? Round, high beam, low beam, and indicators all in one unit (per side). Either way, I'll keep following this. Far from legally possible where I'm at, so it's even more fascinating.
  7. Did you swap the steering rack just for power steering or also for ratio? Because if it's the former, wouldn't an electric system have been easier? Also, if you're in the mountains now, keep an eye on the brake-temperatures downhill.
  8. I wonder what happened in the last 9 years, if the car is still around/being driven/carrying that engine.
  9. Just a quick paint-sketch: Using a filter of this shape.... ...placed about there, flat against the flange where you now attached the 90° angled-bit (or maybe a bit further forward). That takes one 90°-bend out of the route the air has to take, leading to a bit less turbulance in my understanding.
  10. Wouldn't it create better airflow to put a flat filter upright in front of the tubing where it passes the radiator, rather than a sharp 90°-bend? I'd imagine that that bend seriously messes with the airflow.
  11. I absolutely understand^^ Recently managed to make installing a roll bar in a convertible and adapting the carpet a 2+ day job 😕 Then again, I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so that surely doesn't help. On a side-note, are you running both fans off a thermostat or do you use a manual switch for one or both? Max
  12. This got a little more excessive/extensive than I expected^^ I have to admit that I’ll not take my Z to the track or really plan on going crazy fast down the Autobahn (I believe a Z is more at home on twisty roads), so I don’t think a tiny bit more or less downforce will play too much of a role. Of course, in a sub-1-ton car with RWD and no traction control/ESP, it helps to get some sort of rear downforce. A big plus would be that, if I do go and use a racing fuel cell, putting the cap in the hatch would make the TÜV happy and not need me to run a pipe to a (plastic) window. Still very much undecided 😐 Max
  13. That might be an idea, although it's a costly one 😐 I might have to do that already to get the wheels I want, since, for example, VOLK TE37V have Japanese certifications that have higher demands than the German stuff, but they don't do some salt-test which apparently can't be done on its own. So, unless I find someone saying something different, that'd be buying a wheel, and having it tested DESTRUCTIVELY. Currently my two favorite options are either that Skyline-Brake (but I'll wait and watch if the guy doing it gets it TÜVed), or Wilwoods all around. Which I've seen getting TÜV TWICE now. Max
  14. Any results? Did you finish the console? How does the result look?
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