silverado22c

Bumping thread

Buy a cheap mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight or similar place, only $5. You can hear the gears grinding after engaging gear, that low grind. The clunk is probably something to do with the syncros, gears or something else internal to the transmission. I don't have any personal knowledge on these transmissions, just your video pointing to most likely the transmission. Maybe a gear shaft bearing is worn, not allowing gears to be properly meshed.

Don't know of a good tuner here in Nashville, as I haven't needed the service. Maybe look at and contact some people who are a part of the Tennessee SCCA, trscca.org. What is your end goal of your project? Just wondering how to best help you out, if making it a daily, autocross, road racing, drag, or other. I use to be a technician for Land Rover and other places, so have overall knowledge, but not great for things like Mega Squirt and the likes. I have a 1975 280Z and slowly working towards it being a track vehicle, mostly geared towards autocross. I too moved from California a few years ago. Grew up Fresno, but lived in Rancho Cucamonga, Anaheim, Roseville area and Colfax before moving out here to Nashville area. Definitely hit me up with any questions I might be able to answer or meet up once you head out this way.

Sorry Cruceno21, that I didn't respond sooner. Driver window and cowl are not available. But the other parts are available. Is the bracket for the radio, the metal bracket attached to the center console? And the horns, is that the horn button or actual horns you are looking for? Let me know if you are still interested and I can try to come up for a total and shipping cost.

Sorry, those parts are not for sale

Nothing for the wheel well area. If you are talking about interior pieces, those have been sold.

Sorry, those parts are not for sale

Pm's sent

Will send a PM

Many parts still available, for those looking to get their projects completed or just starting out

Just making sure this is the bracket you are looking for. It is still attached to the fuel damper as you see. I have the damper for sale at $30 and shipping is about $7-10. So I can do shipped to you in Alabama for $35 total, if that would work. So you would get the bracket, but also the damper, to use as a back up to yours.

I have 1 from my 1975. The only problem is I am on vacation for another few weeks in California. If you can wait a few weeks, we can try to work something out.

I do not. The parts I have are simply off the 1 vehicle I own, don't have any other parts from others. Hope some one has what you are looking for.

It is not for sale, as they are parts I will be using to rebuild my vehicle.

I don't think I have any speaker brackets. I'll try taking a look thru my parts to see if I have any and will let you know.

POST BUMP

Take off your afm boot that runs to the throttle body. Look at the throttle plate area. See if you are gummed up around the throttle plate. It gums up over time from the crank case and purge valves, that recirculate blow by gasses. It will not allow enough air flow when the plate is closed. Clean it up the throttle plate and area around it with carb cleaner. Then re-install the boot and see if solved your issue.

battery-tray-area-patch This is at skillard.com for $120.

Ivo Jurisic with his 2JZ swapped 1977 Datsun 280Z reset the S30 chassis record several times during the event finishing with a final PB of 7.28 @ 186Mph. This is someone I went to Automotive school with back in 2006. He didn't start building up the car until 2009 and it seems never ending to the changes he makes to it. The above numbers are what he ran this year at TX2K. He has done a roll cage, tubed, and multiple iterations of interiors and turbo setups. I know he has run new rails and tube framing in the engine area, not sure of what he has done the last 2/3's of the body. I think I remember him saying that it actually was a bit harder fitting a 2JZ, then it is to fit a SBC 350 into S30 chassis, just some food for thought. I believe he said that 2JZ fuel system is good for about 500HP with stock components and that the lower ends of the engine are good up to about 1000HP. Don't quote me on those numbers, just what I remember him saying. So I think your issue with HP levels like CALZ stated will be chassis related. So it depends on how much stiffening or completely changing the chassis you are going to do. If you need more in-depth info, I can try to reach out and get more exact numbers.

Sounds good, Newguy. I myself have a 1975 280z, but I'm just going to run with the bumpers off. Many people buy brackets and install 240z bumpers, if they really want something on their 280z. But they also have fill in pieces, to weld into the rear, where the bumper components went thru the body, from Skillard. ZCON, is a national convention of Z cars, to be held here in Nashville this year, Sept. 14-19th. You can get more info at zcon.org. Basically car shows, auto cross and track days at NCM, driving tours to different locations, and tours of the Nissan plant. It changes cities every year, but just happens to be here around the Nashville area. I lucked out with my car compared to most here, having bought it in 2010 for only $1000, with no rust that I can tell of, being a California car. Mine sat for a long time, with a broken right passenger window, but they had 1 for it. And they sold the driver seat. But as I am doing autocross, I didn't mind the disgusting carpet or oxidized paint. So hope you eventually find 1 that suits your needs and level. Prices seem to always be going up, but maybe you can find that 1 granny selling her car or some estate just wanting to get rid of one.

Originally from California, but reside in Nashville area, for the last few years. So if your ever in the area, say hello. You might want to head to ZCON, this September, unless they push it back due to the COVID-19. That way you can see Z's of types and get more ideas. I too am setting up my vehicle, for SCCA and other small racing. I am one who is stripping out and shedding parts that make it lighter, to be geared more towards the track then being comfortable on the street. Gonna be paying more, the nicer a vehicle is, inside and out, but you understand that. So if you are not looking to do much with the engine, depends if you want to deal with carbs or fuel injection. 280z if want fuel injection or go older if want carbs, but it also depends if the previous owner swapped out engines or other components to suit their needs. As with rust and suspension/steering/chassis, I am not an expert when it comes to Datsuns, but I was a technician for Jaguar and Land Rover, so I have a good understanding with cars. Rust repairs is about time and money, if you have it. There are a fair amount of panels for these vehicles, from the post I've seen. But it is on you, if you want to take on the repairs or farm it out, if you are not confidant welding. If wanting specifics on some things as suspension, I've seen a few show their knowledge here. Just depends on how stiff or soft you want to go. The amount you are willing to pay. Or if just replacing the stock struts. If looking to replace worn items with decent parts, take a look at rockauto.com. If wanting to upgrade somewhat over stock, take a look at zcarparts.com, which is the website for Motorsports Auto. Or zcardepot.com or the 100's of others out there, that specialize in certain aspects of the z cars. Zcarsource.com is more for stock/used parts. So in the end, depends on the vehicle you buy and what exactly you want out of it. Some here may be purest and return it to stock, others may restomod their Z, I on the other hand can care less about the looks and looking to have a fun SCCA/Track car.

The FAST EZ system from Zcardepot only uses the 1 coolant sensor in their kit, not the 3 like factory. Newzed, your info relates more to stock set up, not the EZ set up that uses GM parts. Like I said before, repair that exhaust leak 1st, as the O2 sensor is the major component used to allow for proper self tuning by the EZ ECU. Also look up YouTube videos of the EZ system that had been installed to Datsuns and one of those videos shows the base settings they used instead of FAST initial numbers, where they had the same rich issue as you. Most of the coolant sensors are on the ignition control side, to change timing at certain temp levels, either cold start or like at the 100 degree level. The single pin is for temp gauge, large sensor under that is for cold start, smaller coolant is for warm up feed back, and the grounded coolant sensor on the side is for timing adjustment at warm up. So ignition side coolant sensors stay and fuel side goes with EZ kit install, I believe. At least this is what I see for the 1975 280Z, I don't know what the system differences are for your 1983.

Well, that kit is self tuning from the beginning, so that leak can be a major cause of your issues. I have seen other videos on YouTube about setting the base numbers to something different to have better idle and running conditions. You would be surprised how small of an exhaust leak can lead to setting codes in modern vehicles, as I removed many from Range Rovers during a major recall. They would be hairline cracks that you could barely see, but the O2 levels would be effected. So get that exhaust fixed and play with the base tune.

I don't have the kit, but I think you disconnected more items than you are supposed to. The FAST EZ is supposed replace the fuel related side, not the ignition side. I believe you should not disconnect the oil pressure sensor, as that is tied into the ignition harness. Same goes with the connector to the dizzy. Have you or someone pulled the harness apart and swapped the routing at a previous time? Take the oil pressure and dizzy connector out of the fuel harness and run back to their locations. Also wondering if you set up the O2 sensor required in the system.