silverado22c

With out seeing if your driving style stays the same or changes for the Datsun, I would suspect it is similar for both vehicles. It seems to me you drive into the corners with too much speed, not enough initial braking and drive thru at the same speed you came into the corner. Then I also see you clip the corners, instead of staying wider on entry, then rolling thru the corner. So attack the straights, set the vehicle up wider to put the car on the correct apex of the corner and get on the brakes before entering. Then roll into the throttle and out of the corners. Basically more aggressive with your pedals, but smoother racing line to reduce under-steer on your Subi and over-steer on your Datsun.

That amount looks excessive and from your crank case breather, not the valve cover breather. I would see what it is like after you run the compression test again like Bunkhouse stated. Probably from the cylinder 5 rings. The smoke may get into your cabin, thru the vent that blows on the electronics in the passenger foot well, if you have it open. I don't know exactly what years have it or not. Maybe also thru the hvac intake if that is open.

To me, the system is operating correctly, given that the valve cover has a filter instead of being routed to the intake as intended from factory. You yourself said wisp, not large volume of smoke. I see it as just oil vapors escaping as it should. And the oil will smell of some fuel, with slight ring blow-by over time getting into the oil in the crankcase area. If it is not running right and smoothly, I would investigate. But if it is fine, don't overthink and just keep driving. From your picture, it seems like the vehicle was well maintained and they would have told you if such an issue was present before you buying the Datsun.

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So the best thing to do is lift the car and have someone else run the vehicle. And hopefully be able to hear it. I've used an automotive stethoscope to help pinpoint the noises a bit better and also chassis ears when I worked in a shop. If you don't feel comfortable under a vehicle that is running, you could try spinning the wheels by hand, but may not be fast enough to hear a whine.

I had to look again and it seems correctly installed by you in the picture. Sorry, got it all mixed up. I don't think it is the throw out bearing, like you said as well. Got mixed up trying to look over info from the manuals and other sites to help you out.

Did you ever drive the donor car before taking the parts off to install on your 280Z? What did the fluid look like while draining the fluid? You have any jack stands or somebody with a lift? Lift the car and run thru the gears, see where the noise is coming from. It could be your throw out bearing if not installed correctly.

So it seems you have a handle of the electrical, for the most part. And it pretty much comes down to the vehicle not staying on and dieing. So the carb is new and was on the engine before you had your electrical issue? If put on after, most carbs are sort of tuned to allow for decent starting, but many still need to be tuned to allow for the best operation. Can't tell you if you can see fuel, as don't know what type of carb you have, with some having chock plates covering the fuel nozzles. Same goes with the regulator, carbs need only a few psi to work, with their regulators usually in the 4-9 psi range. Fuel injected use regulators that can handle the 30-40 psi needed. Do you have a container, that you could see if the fuel pump cuts off after 5 seconds? Remove the fuel inlet to the carb and put in container. Have someone else crank the vehicle while you hold the container. If shuts off at about the same amount of time as your vehicle did, then that points to the fuel pump relay or fuel pump. If keeps putting out a good stream, then it may be your carb is not tuned correctly. Is you HEI part of the distributor or a separate part, that is wired in connection to the distributor and coil? If part of the distributor, that has a coil in the cap and no need for another coil. If you could provide pictures and even better video of you trying to start your vehicle, that would be best.

I just saw it was a common cause, when looking at sbc forums. So I do not know the process of checking the module. What fuel pump are you using? Is it in the stock location or a mechanical run on the engine? If using a Datsun electrical fuel pump, that is way too much pressure for carburetors. You stated you have a 1971 Datsun 240Z. But looking at past post and threads, the engine is a SBC with a T56 tranny. It is very hard for us to help, when complete information of the vehicle is not relayed in the 1st post, as not every knows of other threads stating what your car actually has under the hood and inside the vehicle. So lets basically start fresh 1971 Datsun 240Z Small block Chevy engine with a T56 transmission Painless wiring 21 circuit harness with GM 10101 harness So the vehicle ran correctly, up until the wiring fired and melted? Is the alternator an internal or external regulated alternator? Did you install a voltage regulator into the system, when an internally regulated alternator is installed? I see from the Painless thread you started, asking about a voltage regulator. What is the amperage of the alternator, being that it may be more than what the wiring harness can handle? You also stated something about relays. You have a horn relay that is attached to the fuse panel, as it is part of the Painless kit you bought. Did you go thru any original Datsun electrical components or removed them before installing the Painless kit? You don't need a ballast resistor for an HEI, as the coils have different internal resistance. Same with the voltage regulator found on the early Datsuns, if the alternator for the SBC is an internally regulated. When it does run for a few seconds, is it smooth or popping before it dies? You may have the distributor in 180 degrees. I don't know it is keyed for only one install or if can be put in improperly. Sorry for a long post. So please provide us with all the information we need to help you. And don't stress out, step away for a few minutes and then get back at it. I know, from working on wiring and much more when I worked for Land Rover and Jaguar. Pictures could do even more help than words. Like we need to know if the painless kit goes all the way to the components or just spliced in.

Might be the module for the HEI Distributor, either loose connection or faulty module itself.

There is a groove on the clutch collar. Slide the spring on that groove. The ends then fit on the other side of the clutch fork, holding the collar to the fork. If doesn't fit 1 way, flip the spring over, so it fits correctly. Kind of a dumb thing, if you don't have a photographic memory, take pics before removing items.

Again, please mention the year and if made any other changes such as a different engine or EMS. Pictures always help too. It looks like you have a 76 from your name. Did you use the proper amperage fuse for the alternator, Black being 80 amps. Looks like the Red, Headlight and Ign Switch are not correct and should be flipped in the below picture. On what side do you disconnect the wire from the alternator to the maxi fuse, at the alternator or at the Maxi fuse? Why did you make the switch to Maxi fuses, did you have a previous issue or trying to get rid of an issue before it might occur? Do you still have the external voltage regulator or has that been updated in some way? That is what regulates the voltage of the alternator. When it shows 12 volts, usually means that it is running off of the battery only, with most systems running in the mid 13's. If starting vehicle with wire disconnected, have you checked the output of the alternator, what readings are you getting? Atlantic Z Fusible Link upgrade

You can probably get a kilo with the purchase of a fender or bumper piece

Like Granny said, is the bolt even in the front of the sprocket where it attaches to the camshaft. Don't over think things. You show 2 videos of the full view, but nothing at where the 2 parts connect.

Captain, download a wiring diagram for your year Datsun Z, as they change slightly with the models and year to year. Also look at the Painless manual and match up where their colors go compared to the locations of the Z. If you indeed bought the whole wiring 21 circuit, you will definitely need the Datsun wiring diagram to reference on how to hook up your wiring thru out the car, beyond just your ignition circuit. I personal went the other way. Mine is a 1975 that I am keeping fairly stock, but gutting unnecessary items to run as an autocross car. I am using the stock wiring harness, but had to reference the wiring diagram to see what circuits I could remove and how to route certain wiring to a new fuse box I am installing, for the light circuits. What I am trying to say is, you are wanting a full answer, but giving us half the initial information. So provide all the info of your vehicle and download both Datsun and Painless manuals and wiring diagrams.

Yep, something like that. Plus you could use it at the track if really wanting to make changes, not always having to rely and the downtime running to an alignment shop.

I would set up the lower control arm at about where it would live most it's life. Use an old alignment tool that connects to the wheel and uses bubbles, magnetic camber/cast king pin gauge, if you don't have access to an alignment machine. Probably some circle track guys still use them if you don't want to buy 1. Just because it seems your LCA is all the way in and your tension rod and tie rod look to being a bit further out. Then measure like the others say for another sway bar or bend it to fit. Can't quite tell, but it seems you have slightly positive camber even in the pics. I don't know on Datsun's, as I've never aligned 1, if negative 3 degrees is 1/4" out or 3/4" out on the adjusting sleeve. But as it seems you have it on a stand, would need to either set on the ground or somehow get the hub and suspension to ride height for proper alignment.

I've done many alignments, mostly on Land Rovers and some other vehicles. The amount of movement is minimal to get a big degree change for camber, not like you would be adjusting the lower control arms out an inch or more. You could probably get a few degrees at about 1/2" or under. Even race cars are not really going over 5*, you'll probably end up setting it up at 2 to maybe 3 degrees, 4 at most if you can really drive.

Reserved for Parts Sold Sold - - Radio - Tool Set and Jack - Delete plates, low fuel, and Hazard switch from center console

Scott Drake C5ZZ-5A486-ADJ These may allow you to meet the offset of the new bar to where they mount to the lower control arm. Is your issue more about the new bar hitting the calipers?

I looked thru the Fuel Injection Bible. Page 33. Looks like a vacuum switching valve for non-california manual vehicles. Would mount over the thermostat housing, would run to a vacuum t that connects to the t-body and distributor. I think you are holding it by the other vacuum part, aren't you? As I have a 1975 Datsun 280z manual, I do not have that have, just a simple t connector that runs to the same locations.

Located in Nashville, TN. Partially parting out my car to make it a weekend/SCCA car. Have pictures of the parts and can provide to you on request in PM. Vehicle was originally a California car and have tried to clean up most parts that had surface rust with Evapo-rust. Prices do not include shipping, which will tabulated and provided to you before completing transaction. Will use Paypal or Venmo, or local pick up. Expand the attached photo for available parts and prices.