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Posts posted by fusion

  1. So after thinking about this more, I'm assuming that the reason for needing to move the top of the coilover back is because even though flipping the control arms moves the wheel back close to the original location, the location of the coilover lower mount is too far back, thus requiring the upper mount moved back.  Is this correct?



  2. Ok, my next question is about the location of the wheels.  If I bolt the mustang spindle on, the wheel will be sitting 0.75" forward from normal.  I don't want to cut my fenders so I want to move it back to center.  To accomplish this, I can swap left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods.   Does this put the wheel centered in the wheel well?  If so, why does the coilover need to be moved backwards via rotated camber plates?  




  3. Ok, I am doing this mod and wanted to shore up a few things about the tie rods.  I will be using:

    2014 mustang spindles 

    2006 mustang calipers and v6 rotors (to clear 15" wheels)

    280z BC racing coilovers (with Vlad adapter plates)

    Factory 280z manual rack (I think.. Any way to tell for sure?)


    I have seen it mentioned that I can just purchase the T3 outer tie rods and use a 5/8" drill bit to bore out the 2014 mustang spindle?  Is this the right one: ( https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z ) ?

    Or do I have to order a custom outer tie rod from T3?   


    What about the Apex Engineered outer tie rods?


    I am also thinking about swapping left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods to move the wheels back a bit.  Any downsides to this?



  4. I am putting an 5.3/turbo in my 280z.  I am fabricating my own motor mounts and welding them to the frame rails instead of the crossmember to gain space for a downpipe.  My frame rails are in great shape.  Anyone see any issues with it?  I know it's been done before, just wanted to double check.





  5. Does anyone know if the factory drivetrain on an S30 is offset slightly to the passenger side?  I am installing a new engine/trans and I was trying to measure the centerline of the rear diff with respect to the frame rails and it appeared to be approximately 1/2" offset to the passenger side.  Is that right?  It's hard to get a good measurement.



  6. Thanks for all comments.  Jmortensen, great pictures.  I was thinking I could just cut the mount off flush with the engine side frame rail, weld in a new angled plate and mount the bushing there.   Would save a ton of time with spot welds.


    NewZed, very interesting idea, thanks.  That could be a great solution.  Upon initial look getting around the tie rods could be an issue, but not out of the question.



  7. Hi guys, looking for advice/comments on a question I have.  I am in the process of building a 5.3L turbo 280z and am looking at my downpipe routing down the passenger side.   It's going to be tight, and I was looking at the tension rod mount that sticks out into the engine bay.  If I could use a shorter tension rod, and fabricate a new mount outboard towards the tire, I could gain a bunch of space. (See crude picture)   I willingly admit that I don't know how this would affect the driving of the car.   I could do both sides but only need the passenger side.  The car will not be tracked, just a street car with a couple of drag passes a year.  


    Thanks for any advice.



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