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fusion

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Posts posted by fusion

  1. Hey guys,

    I have a 1976 280z.  One of the previous owners decided to get rid of the fuel filler door and weld in a patch in its place.  They did a horrible job and ruined the body line in that area.  I don't need to have a fuel door but would really like to fix the area before I paint the car this summer.  I would normally just use a stud welder+slide hammer and get it close then smooth with filler.  However, the body line that runs right through this area is totally ruined and I don't think I can bring it back to an acceptable level.

     

    I know most vendors only sell quarter panel patches that don't have this body line.  I did find one vendor that does sell a panel that includes the body line, Wolf Steel: https://alfaparts.net/pics/nissan/nz5.htm

     

    1) Does anyone have experience with Wolf Steel panels?

    2) Are there any other vendors that sell a panel that includes the body line?

    3) Any other thoughts?

     

    Thanks

  2. Thanks guys.  What I meant by a new top is that I could take a 1/8" plate with the shock holes drilled offset towards the rear and weld on the shock tower to give more caster.  I have BC coilovers now.  I think I could get 1/2" or so, maybe more.  I'm in the middle of a resto mod build so I don't mind doing it if it's a good benefit.

     

    I don't plan on tracking the car, so I'm not concerned about the race benefits, I've just heard that the s30 has pretty poor camber from the factory.  I've read that any adjustments on the tension rod aren't as beneficial because it puts the LCA bushing in a bind, and you don't get much adjustment anyways.

     

    Thanks

  3. I understand that a stock 280z has about 2-3 degrees of caster.  I have read that usually more caster is better.  For a 100% street car, would there be any advantage to having more caster?  Would I notice a difference at high speeds?  I am planning on electric power steering.

     

    If so, has anyone ever slotted or made a new plate for the shock tower top to move the top of the strut or coilover back?

     

    Thanks

  4. I was planning on converting my car to front mustang 5 lug hubs and brakes as detailed in this thread: 

     

     

    I bought most of the parts and started putting it together but I just have too many other things going on with the car right now (roll cage, turbo build, fuel system, etc) and don't want to mess with the front suspension right now.  My loss, your gain.

     

    20201102_183904.jpg.504819998ea1901941fe12cced5ec5cb.jpg

     

    Pair of front lower control arms with the mustang ball joint pocket already welded in place.  Purchased the 280z control arms and the mustang control arms and the welding and fitment done by Vlad (invincibleextremes).  Welded 1/2" back to allow for easier wheel fitment.  I also did the horrible job of removing of the old bushings. Ball joints that are in there were degraded from the welding heat and need replaced after everything is installed.  Nice thing about these is that you don't have to pull your control arms to modify.  I paid $250 for these all said and done.  Selling for $150.

     

    Screenshot_20201102-184919_eBay.jpg.9efb17eaebb35af0afbc930e25a85006.jpg

     

    Screenshot_20201102-185159_eBay.jpg.47a6ed6c26c7ce805c2e6da390b2cead.jpg

     

     

    Pair of 2014 mustang spindles.  These are low mile units that are in excellent shape.  Comes with ABS sensors and Vlad adapter plates to weld to the coilover.  Paid $290, sell for $125.

     

    Screenshot_20201102-185522_eBay.jpg.e6be9b259fbea8d2861108f83ce355f4.jpg

     

    Pair of 2005-2009 front mustang calipers.  These will clear some 15" wheels.   Great shape, include caliper brackets.  Paid $100, sell for $50.

     

    Prices do not include shipping.  If anyone is interested in the whole lot, I will sell everything for $275.

     

     

  5. So after thinking about this more, I'm assuming that the reason for needing to move the top of the coilover back is because even though flipping the control arms moves the wheel back close to the original location, the location of the coilover lower mount is too far back, thus requiring the upper mount moved back.  Is this correct?

     

     

  6. Ok, my next question is about the location of the wheels.  If I bolt the mustang spindle on, the wheel will be sitting 0.75" forward from normal.  I don't want to cut my fenders so I want to move it back to center.  To accomplish this, I can swap left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods.   Does this put the wheel centered in the wheel well?  If so, why does the coilover need to be moved backwards via rotated camber plates?  

     

    Thanks

     

  7. Ok, I am doing this mod and wanted to shore up a few things about the tie rods.  I will be using:

    2014 mustang spindles 

    2006 mustang calipers and v6 rotors (to clear 15" wheels)

    280z BC racing coilovers (with Vlad adapter plates)

    Factory 280z manual rack (I think.. Any way to tell for sure?)

     

    I have seen it mentioned that I can just purchase the T3 outer tie rods and use a 5/8" drill bit to bore out the 2014 mustang spindle?  Is this the right one: ( https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z ) ?

    Or do I have to order a custom outer tie rod from T3?   

     

    What about the Apex Engineered outer tie rods?

     

    I am also thinking about swapping left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods to move the wheels back a bit.  Any downsides to this?

     

    Thanks

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