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Everything posted by fusion

  1. Nice work. Any reason why you made the tube from the tension rod area to the firewall curved instead of straight?
  2. Thanks for the comments. I do have new wheels/tires for the car. As far as chassis stiffening, I do have the cage tied into the rear shock towers. I also have new box tubing frame rails, subframe connectors to the rear subframe, gussets to tie the rear subframe together better, tubing from the back of the tension control mounts to the firewall and tubing from the top of the fender horns back to the firewall. Unfortunately I don't have any room inside the engine compartment to add any other tubing to the strut towers. But this isn't a race car so I feel ok about it. I might add
  3. I was thinking about that but seems like it would be very difficult to get a good weld between the edge of 20ga sheet metal and a nut that is probably 6 times thicker.
  4. In the rear quarter panel, I should have specified.
  5. How are you accomplishing this with the inner fender in the way?
  6. I have done patch panels before. I could probably make it but not worth the time to me when I can just buy a panel that's already in the perfect shape. (I did already get a patch and welded it in) Also, not sure why anyone would attempt to make a patch without using any filler unless you're working on a DeLorean.
  7. Thanks for the comments. I am in the process of building it now. The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work. I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it. I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading. For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading. Points taken on the front brakes. I'll definitely look to get something better. I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration. I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet. I was looking at the
  8. Ah, yes, I forget to mention that I have subframe connectors and also added support bars to the inner front fender horns as well
  9. Car is a 1976 280z. 100% street car. In the middle of building it. Current drivetrain is a single turbo 5.3, t56 magnum, Ford super 8.8 rear diff with 2015 mustang rear disc brakes. 6 point roll bar. BC coilovers on all 4 corners. All poly bushings. I won't be tracking the car but it should have a lot of power and I do want it to be stable at speed and be able to put the power to the pavement. Trying to figure out the best things to upgrade suspension/brakes wise. Don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading, but where it really makes a difference for street dri
  10. My 1976 280z driver's door has a unpullable dent at the top right where where the mirror bolts to it. It's in an extremely tight location and I don't think I can pound it out. Wondering if anyone has a rusty door that they could cut out a patch panel out of. I *think* any year 240-280 should work but not 100% sure.
  11. Thread the bolt in while welding so it makes it harder to lose shape
  12. That's basically what I was thinking. But all the images I've seen seem to show everyone making just one cut.
  13. I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z. I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links. My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop. However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch. There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out. But it's extremely hard to measure the di
  14. I am going to be mounting my flares soon and need to get the rivnuts. I have read a bunch of threads but was looking for some feedback. Aluminum Pros: won't rust. Easy to crimp down. Easy to drill out if needed. Cons: weak threads that can strip. Galvanic corrosion to steel body? Zinc plated steel Pros: strong. Somewhat easy to crimp down. Decent rust resistance? No galvanic corrosion? Able to be tack welded to body. Cons: not enough rust resistance? Stainless Pros: strong. Won't rust. Able to be tack welded to body Co
  15. I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole. This acts as a heat sink. Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in. If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.
  16. Thanks guys. I won't be tracking the car, but will have lots of power on tap so want to upgrade the stopping power. I understand I'll need to tune the brake bias. I am leaning towards the later model s12+8 calipers with vented 300zx rotors. I feel like that will be a good match with the mustang rear discs. Does anyone know if the front rotors from an 84-86 turbo 300zx will bolt right in to this setup? I will be using the Silvermine 5 lug hubs with a 5x103mm rotor bolt pattern. I think it works
  17. Thanks for your reply. I will be running stock 2015 mustang rear brakes which are 11.8" calipers
  18. I need to convert to 5 lug setup for my front wheels. The rear is already taken care of with the super 8.8 kit. I am heavily leaning towards the Silvermine conversion hubs. But on to the brakes. I am not planning on tracking the car, but it will be a single turbo LS and need decent stopping power on the street. So I saw there is a conversion to run Toyota brakes. Looks fairly low cost. There are a lot of threads but most of the info is lost or broken links. I did find this link to a page about the swap: https://web.archive.org/web/20140110095234/http://drivendaily.org/s30-t
  19. Wow, very cool, thanks. I changed the title so hopefully now it will pass the FB monitor.
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