fusion

Is the hatch glass much harder to install than the windshield? I am finishing up a 1976 280z build and am installing the glass. I have brand new gaskets from vintage rubber. The front windshield was a bit off a pain but got it on the first try. The hatch glass is seeming much more difficult. The hatch is off the car and I thought it would be easier to install off the car rather than on the car. I am using the same rope method. With the front windshield, I was able to slide the glass/gasket into the lower pinch weld and then use the rope to pull the gasket around the pinch weld and use hand pressure to walk it around the sides. With the hatch glass, I can't get it started on any sides of the pinch weld. The top and bottom are especially not very close. I really don't have a good game plan. I did have someone helping me. We gave up after about an hour and no real progress. When we got one side sort of close, the other side would be going the wrong direction. I am using 3/16" (4.8mm) rope. I have seen a couple videos online and they basically just set the glass/gasket into the opening, flip the hatch over and start pulling the rope. Looks super easy. Not sure why it's so hard for me. The glass did come out of this hatch, so I know it was in there before. The new gasket is very robust and I'm sure making it more difficult, but I believe vintage rubber is generally regarded as a quality manufacturer. The hatch is awkward to handle and manipulate which isn't helping either. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

Thanks for your comments, very insightful.

Thanks for your comments Cal. I am planning on doing it myself so sticking to simpler areas really increase the likelihood of it turning out well. The cost of the film isn't crazy high so if it does look bad after a while I could always remove it. But your comments are definitely valid

I recently painted my 280z and want to add paint protection film in key areas. The car is lowered and has wider tires with flares. What would be the key areas to cover? I'm assuming behind the rear tires from the bottom of the quarter to about 8" up, the rocker panels, the area behind the front tires on the fender from the bottom up to the body line, and the front valance/air dam. Does that sound right? Any other areas? Thanks

I have a 1976 280z that I am in the finishing stages of totally rebuilding from scratch. I have stock rear control but custom hub mounts and needed a way to set the toe and camber so I am using adjustable rear control arm bushings that allow for toe and camber adjustment. I understand how to adjust the bushings, but where I am struggling is a reference point to set the toe. It's my understanding that usually the front toe is set with reference to the rear. However, neither my front nor rear toe is set. Not sure the best way forward. I guess I could find the centerline of the car? The frame rails could be an option, however those have been replaced and might not be perfectly square. Any advice welcome. Thanks

Hello, I am in the process of putting my 280z back together after a ground up build. I want to tint the windows. Right now all the glass is out of the car. My thought was that I should get the quarter windows and hatch glass tinted before install since they sit in a rubber gasket and it would look better if the tint went all the way to the edge, under the gasket. I do worry, however, that putting the gaskets on and installing the glass after tinting may risk damaging the tint. Similar concern with the door glass, I would worry that if I had it tinted beforehand it would get scratched during install. Much more worry than the quarter or hatch glass. Wondering if anyone has input. Thanks

I am looking to replace my mirror. So, am I correct to assume that the reason the Hyundai mirror must be disassembled is because the ball cannot be removed and replaced with the Datsun ball from the backside? So basically you hack up one Hyundai mirror to harvest the glass intact, and then you smash out the glass in the other Hyundai housing, put the Z ball inside and replace with the good Hyundai glass? Is this still the best option? I saw that someone mentioned the early Sentra mirrors worked as-is but I can't find those either.

Has anyone replaced their original window cranks with more modern billet versions? What is the spline size for 280z? Was hoping to not have to spend a fortune.

Aydin, thanks for the comment. Yes I am aware of this and have made these adjustments before. I did end up determining that I didn't have the rack perfectly centered. Once I made the adjustment, I think I am OK now.

I put a new steering rack in my car that has right hand inner tie rods on both sides. I bought 2 MOOG ES2109R right side tie rods and they do fit but on the driver's side it's a bit too long and I don't have much adjustment ability. Also its pointed slightly forward as opposed to the passenger side where it points sightly rearward. What is everyone using for drivers side outer tie rod with right hand thread?

I'll check into other s30s in my area but given the fact that I tried fitting the hub onto 3 different shafts already I'm really thinking that something is wrong with the hub itself.

Cal, what you see in the splines is grease and I used it both for lubrication and also to show how far down the shaft the hub traveled.

Hello, I have a 76 280z. I am putting a momo 3503 hub adapter onto my steering shaft. Every video I've watched of people putting hub adapters on their s30 it seems they slide right on. Mine goes on very snug, but I can get it to go on about 6mm or so before it gets really hard. Maybe I could pound it on, but doesn't seem right and I don't know how I'd ever get it off. I have checked the splines on both the hub and shaft and they look OK. I even bought another hub and tried that with no success. I have 2 other steering shafts laying around and it's always the same thing. Is it possible both the hubs are bad? Bought both from Amazon (not 3rd party either, from Amazon directly). The splines on the Momo look cast (not machined) and perhaps that's the problem? Not sure where to go from here. I like the collapsible design of the Momo but may have to consider another brand. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks everyone for the comments

Thanks man. I had read that Nissan did use sealant from the factory, but it wasn't super clear. Also the sealant never hardens up, it remains soft, or at least it's supposed to.

I'm installing a new gasket and windshield into my 280z. I've read conflicting information on using sealant or installing dry. I'm leaning towards using the sealant to ensure no leaks. This is the sealant I purchased: https://www.crlaurence.com/All-Products/Automotive-Windows-%26-Supplies/Automotive-Glass-Supplies/Glazing-Adhesives/Epoxies%2C-Sealers%2C-Urethanes%2C-%26-Adhesives/CRL-Black-Windshield-and-Body-Sealant/p/CRL7708 What's the best way to install with sealant? If I install into the pinch weld groove on the gasket, I'm afraid it will be extremely messy when the rope is coming out of the groove during install. I also wonder how the lube (soapy water or Windex) will affect it. If I apply it to the pinch weld, I'm worried that it will smear all over the gasket flap when the rope pulls it over the pinch weld. Maybe the best method is to install dry and backfill sealant under the gasket flap where it meets the body? I've gone to great lengths to get the car extremely nice and don't want to have a disaster on my hands during the install. Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks!

Which snaps did you use for the carpet side ebrake ? And how did they attach? I'm needing to do the same thing soon.

I will definitely check, I had just figured this must have come up before for someone and they figured it out

This is not my car. The extreme widebody isn't my cup of tea but pretty badass build and engineering. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1970336-datsun-260z-ss-all-wheel-drive-build.html

I am putting carpet in my 280z. It never had any when I bought it. The brake boot has snaps that apparently attach to the carpet. My carpet doesn't have any and need to add some. I would like to buy some snaps that will work with the brake boot snaps. Preferably ones that rivet in. Has anyone identified any? Thanks

Thanks man. It was actually cheaper to buy a whole new MC, which is ridiculous

Wanted the clevis and pin for 280z clutch. This is the part that threads onto the master cylinder rod and attaches to the clutch pedal. I believe that the brake and clutch clevises are the same, but not 100% . Let me know if you have one

I don't believe you can have the damper behind the steering rack. I have a Corvette damper which is the tightest to the block and mine sits directly over the rack. This is with the engine as tight to the firewall as I was willing to go. Clearance to the hood is fairly good. I don't think you'll have a problem there.

You didn't even remove the side mirrors, door handles or locks? Yikes