Jump to content
HybridZ

fusion

Donating Members
  • Content Count

    161
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4
  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by fusion

  1. I am going bumperless in the rear and am shaving the roll pan on my 280z.  I know the large holes can be filled in with sheet metal and welded.  What about the recessed areas and threaded holes?  See picture.  

     

    For area 1, what have people done?   I was thinking of getting set screws in the threaded holes and welding closed.  But what about the large recess?  I really don't want to fill it in with Bondo.  Maybe just fill in the threaded holes and leave the area recessed?

     

    Same questions for area 2.

     

    Pictures would be really nice.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    20210214_153834.jpg

  2. I am working on my 76 280z.  The recess behind the gas door was rusted out in one corner.  See pictures below.  I noticed that the backside was seam sealed all the way around.  

    Where is gasoline or more importantly water supposed to go when it gets in there?  Obviously you don't want to have gasoline leak on the back side of the quarter panel because the smell would be inside the cabin.  Has anyone welded in a nipple in the corner and attached a hose that runs down and empties on the ground?  That's my current plan.

    20210131_171324.jpg.b05cba72bbd8977b5d7d8276eb97cd0c.jpg

     

     

    Thanks for any comments

    20210131_171331.jpg

  3. I wanted to get recent opinions on a 5 lug swap for the front only for my 280z.  I saw that silvermine and T3 make new hubs, anyobe have any experience with either?  Any other good options?  Needs to be 5x4.5"

     

    Seems like the 300zx option isn't as attractive due to the scarcity (and thus cost) of the hubs.

     

    Thanks

  4. Thanks grannyknot.  I'm not really concerned if the bolt can take the torque, I'm more concerned about the fact that the spindle pin has shoulders on both ends which prevent the nuts from being tightened too far where the bolt has threads that would allow you to tighten the nut to the point where the upright would barely be able to turn because there would be so much friction between it and the control arm bushings.  

  5. I have researched replacing the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt.  I know people have done this before.  I am putting in the Ford super 8.8 kit from InvincibleExtremes (Vlad) and it replaces the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt.   I also had the (dis)pleasure of removing my factory spindle pins.

     

    What I want to know is, when people have used a bolt, what do they tighten the nut torque to?  I have poly bushings, and when the nut is tightened, the metal sleeves of the bushings will tighten against the metal bore of the new upright in the kit. I was worried about the metal to metal contact in this area but this is the same as stock, right?  I was considering putting a thin Delrin washer (thrust washer?)between the bushing sleeves and the upright.  

     

    I will be using a nylock nut, and probably another jam nut just to be safe.  But what torque should I tighten the nut to?  I believe factory torque spec is 65 ft-lbs.

     

    Thanks

×
×
  • Create New...